Raven R code

http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php/topic/56216-69-mach-glue-in-door-glass/
 
You can check this thread out, just re did my glue in glass. Don't remove all the old glue! Watch the WCCC video also. I bought the door weather strip from CJs, no issues with that. The felt was easy too, removing the window stop allows the window to go all the way down so felt can be installed after the glass is already in so you don't have to fight it, putting the glass back in.

Very nice mod! Looks like it belongs for sure!

Making more progress, this is the first time these lights have been on in twenty years. It's coming to life.
 
 
 

Very nice mod! Looks like it belongs for sure!

Well Guys, here it is, the window jig, with measurements. Couple 2x4 & 2x6's, screws, plumb ball, workmate, and some good ole Yankee ingenuity from a fifth generation Texan.
Next step, remove to make paper shims as Barnett suggested, apply glue, install glass into brackets making sure they are seated all the way in channel, clamp, and then shim to correct angle using some nylon toilet shims.
 
Thoughts?

In 1988 I sort of bought a 69 Q code car. I bought a complete stash of parts which included everything but the totaled unibody chassis. If it could be unbolted, it was. The car was totaled in 1973 with 38,000 miles on it. So....I do have plenty of parts that came off of it. The drive train is NOT for sale so please don't ask, but if you need something else, feel free to run it by me. I no longer have the seats, fenders, trunk lid. I do have the non ram air hood, all wire harnesses, door glass, rear window, 428 smog tubes and pump, auto shifter and bezel just to name a few. Everything has been in storage since 1988.

That's a felony where I'm from. Car cover? Portable cover? I'd park mine in my living room before leaving it outside in the snow. But that's me. And could be why I'm 0-2 with wives :)
Nice looking place ya got there Ray.

I'm planning on getting the 428 water pump rebuild kit from dead nuts. Does anyone know how these Bearings come apart? Also, after taking off the back cover, I noticed there is a hairline crack in one of the bolt holes. Should I be worried? My feeling is if I RTV the back cover, it should seal up fine.

I'm planning on getting the 428 water pump rebuild kit from dead nuts. Does anyone know how these Bearings come apart? Also, after taking off the back cover, I noticed there is a hairline crack in one of the bolt holes. Should I be worried? My feeling is if I RTV the back cover, it should seal up fine.

I'm planning on getting the 428 water pump rebuild kit from dead nuts. Does anyone know how these Bearings come apart? Also, after taking off the back cover, I noticed there is a hairline crack in one of the bolt holes. Should I be worried? My feeling is if I RTV the back cover, it should seal up fine.

It is my original pump for my motor. They are very simplistic but there is a sequence of events to follow. It's not really much different than doing a wheel bearing.

I'm planning on getting the 428 water pump rebuild kit from dead nuts. Does anyone know how these Bearings come apart? Also, after taking off the back cover, I noticed there is a hairline crack in one of the bolt holes. Should I be worried? My feeling is if I RTV the back cover, it should seal up fine.

I'm planning on getting the 428 water pump rebuild kit from dead nuts. Does anyone know how these Bearings come apart? Also, after taking off the back cover, I noticed there is a hairline crack in one of the bolt holes. Should I be worried? My feeling is if I RTV the back cover, it should seal up fine.

About to start assembling my motor. I have read the FE bible from Barry....so these tips are in addition. Had upgrades to the oil system done which includes the chamfering of the openings in the mains and enlarging the passage by the filter mount. A few things I am doing that I didn't do before include....not priming the lifters. Do not prime lifter because you will not be able to effectively measure push rod lengths. The other thing is to prime the motor by getting the oil pump up to speed on the engine stand. This will allow to check for leaks before installing the motor. One last tip....use pipe dope or other good sealant to seal the lower right water pump bolt. It is the only one out of the 4 mounts to open up into the water jacket. This one caused me much grief when my motor was freshly painted and leaked coolest everywhere.
 
So , please feel free to share any building tips or tricks related to the FE block. I will add more as they come.
 
Dave

Anyone have part numbers for the Bilsteins? I looked at their site and they search didn't return anything for big block cars

One more thing about FE intake manifolds.  There were many different manifolds, both factory and aftermarket, made for FE engines.  There are also many different intake manifold bolt kits made for the FE intake manifolds.  
 
I highly recommend you put the bolts you have in the manifold with the manifold still off, and measure how much bolt sticks out the bottom.  Then take a nail and stick in in the hole that bolt is supposed to go in and 1)  make sure the bolt will be long enough to catch at least 1/4 to 1/2 inch of threads (including the width of the gasket,) and 2) make sure the bolt won't bottom out.  If the bolt bottoms out, you may keep torquing waiting for the torque wrench to say you have the proper reading reading, but the threads will strip before that reading is reached.  If this happens, you will need to pull the manifold back off and helicoil repair that hole in the block.  If it one of the holes back by the firewall, this can be a real chore.
 
By the way, the back bolts will bottom out in the hole on a Blue Thunder intake manifold if you use the ARP intake manifold bolt set.  Don't ask me how I know.  Let's just say I've learned the above lesson, and I'm in the process of taking the manifold back off! 

Lol! Did the same when I was 21!.........these days.....the more help, the better. ;)

Installing the FE boat anchors solo, as a kid, is prob why my back is so jacked these days. Special note, needs to be a HD hoist for the ci application, ha ha.

Installing any intake by ones self increases the potential for it to leak or something else unpleasant to happen . The objective should be to work smarter, not harder.
.

C'mon man, when I was 19 I rebuilt a 390 for my 56 F100 and installed the intake by myself. Now today I would use a hoist :)

If he is using a stock intake manifold, they fit well and it's okay to use the rubber or cork end seals.  With aftermarket aluminum intake manifolds using end seals can some times cause sealing issues not on the end rails but at the cylinder heads since these don't fit as well as a stock intake manifold.
 
I think he can easily install an aluminum intake by himself.  If not, might be time to use some of the funds for the car towards a gym membership.  Cast iron, probably not.

Here is a pic of the oil constrictor.  This is located right under the rocker pedestal on each head.  You can buy the setscrew with the hole already drilled.  Just have to tap the passage way and screw in the constrictor.  If your engine is already running you might want to use a different method of restricting the oil going to the rockers.   B.     

Cam gear the dot is down at the 6 o-clock position, crank gear the dot is up at the 12 o-clock position.  They are vertically inline.  Don't forget the fuel pump eccentric.  Make certain the dowel pin in the cam also engages the fuel pump eccentric.  Don't forget the oil slinger on the crankshaft.
 
If you are using a performance timing chain and gear set with multiple crank sprocket available positions be certain to double check the instructions.

On FE engine heads, one of the holes were the rocker stand bolts go is different, and you will see 2 holes when you look into it.  One hole is were the bolt goes, and the other is an oil passage.  Many FE guys think too much oil is going to the rockers, so they put a Holley carb jet in that oil passage hole.  It is a perfect fit.  I have size 70 jets in mine.  You will get different answers on what size jet to use.  Also, the bolts that are used to secure the rocker shafts are different sizes.  3 per head will be one size, and 1 per head will be different.  The different one goes in the hole with the oil passage.

the insert, the box that collect all the extra screws, lol