Brian Conway

I think you are right to be troubled about the flex-plate.  That would be my first guess. Brian

The recent discussion about axle housings got me curious and would like to ask for some confirmations or corrections.  As I recall I took these measurements with the car up on jack stands.  So some areas are hard to get at and probably not accurate down to the 1/4".  Thanks Brian

I run a Holley 3310-1 on my 428.   Car/motor w/manual stock 4 speed and 3.25 rear gear runs pretty good at all speeds.  Congratulations on the fix.  Carbs can be tricky to dial in. What bugs me?  6.5 mpg.  Sometimes I feel like doing something about it.  Then I remember; " if it ain't broke ".  Brian

The recent discussion about axle housings got me curious and would like to ask for some confirmations or corrections.  As I recall I took these measurements with the car up on jack stands.  So some areas are hard to get at and probably not accurate down to the 1/4".  Thanks Brian

I have had good experience and results using this stuff on the stainless.  Brian

...also if you did a lot of night driving on country roads they might be needed.  Hardly needed for city driving.  Brian

Congratulations on making the move for all the right reasons.  A great temptation for me but already have the weather just can't do anything about the taxes or the cost of living.  Brian

Picture of mine.  These have the rubber seal/buffer, have part numbers, are fiberglass and fit 'fairly' well.  Brian

For future questions...I believe that Henry Ford  parts are the part to have for 99% of the stuff we use on our cars. 

Gasket around the perimeter and some bumps down the center. Brian

I guess I got lucky installing my fuel sending unit. It went in easy peasy and didn't leak. Yet...

Your car is a 70, 351 w/ manual drum brakes?  Does your brake pedal pivot look like this one?   Could have ordered/installed the wrong master cylinder?   https://mustangsteve.com/product-category/master-cylinders-for-classic-fords

" if it ain't broke...don't fix it.  This is a project (wiring) that could keep your car in the garage for some time.  Drive the car for a bit .  You will find more rewarding projects to take your time and money.  Brian

FWIW; my 69 quarter extensions are fiberglass and are C9ZB-11-C and 10 C.  The 69-taillight panel is definitely curved top to bottom.  Fitment on exterior tops and sides is quite good.  With the trunk lid open gaps are obvious on both sides and in different locations.  I think the outward appearance was/is more important than the symmetry.  Brian

The motor, carb and intake info might help?  Idle mixture screws are a great start.  Easy to do and undo. We all like to work on acceleration.  Professional tuning is usually best left alone.  That said with the help of a tach (so you will have a base rpm) you could adjust the idle rpm's using the idle adjustment screw.  Brian

Thanks for posting 'the fix'.

Doesn't make the manifold bad.  Does make the 'lower oil baffle' bad.  The purpose for the baffle is two-fold.  Provide an insulated area below the carb. pad from hot air and hot oil splash.  Brian 

Any help?  Brian

Any help?  Brian

OK got some new info and the results are ... it's the dash gauge and Rocketman is the recommended vendor for recalibration. I did put the Spectra FG 86B in the car Oct. 10, 2019  at 20,280 miles.  Kept a record of gas fill ups, ohm readings and mileage.  End result was with the gas gauge needle dead on E I got a 65 ohm reading. I still had about 5 gallons of gas in the tank.  Bill Basore at Desert Classic Parts refurbished my C9WE-9275-A Sender.  I installed it yesterday, at 22,325 miles, with much the same results.  With an empty tank and the needle below  E  I got a 66 ohm reading.  With 3 gallons in the tank I got a 53 ohm reading and with 20 gallons, at $6.70 a gallon, I got a 10 ohm reading.  I called Basore, relayed my findings and he confirmed the dash gauge was the problem. Basore took a bit more time to explain the why and how but that's the short story.   When I pulled the Spectra unit the float had an eyedropper of gas in it.  Other than that the Spectra sender did a good job.  Because I am not taking my dash apart to get the gauge out, right away, I will live with Empty means 3 gallons of gas in the tank.  Close enough.  Brian

I run the stock tach and I will suggest you get one big enough to see.  My stock set up is so far inset in the dash cluster it takes a while to focus.  I don't like taking my eyes off the road for that long.  Numbers are not big enough and the lighting is poor. I have mine taped/marked with the important numbers.  A large one on the column with shift points/lights would be the ticket.  Brian

Welcome to the site.  Before converting to EFI you might try a basic tune up?  Plugs, points and condenser or an oil and filter change?  Get the Ford Shop Manuals for your car.  Start learning the names of parts and their functions.  Then try asking a few questions?  See how it goes.  Brian 

I use Ford Dark blue.  Pretty sure I got this at NAPA.  Works out pretty nice for me as touch up is easy and the color always match's up.  I spray a small amount into the cap and use a very small paint brush for the touch up.  Brian

Welcome to the site.  Before converting to EFI you might try a basic tune up?  Plugs, points and condenser or an oil and filter change?  Get the Ford Shop Manuals for your car.  Start learning the names of parts and their functions.  Then try asking a few questions?  See how it goes.  Brian 

Welcome to the site.  Before converting to EFI you might try a basic tune up?  Plugs, points and condenser or an oil and filter change?  Get the Ford Shop Manuals for your car.  Start learning the names of parts and their functions.  Then try asking a few questions?  See how it goes.  Brian