Brian Conway

Hard to tell size? Could be balancing plugs used in the pressure plate? Brian

Any help? Brian

Just to verify; 40 .25" is the measurement I have. I have Drake export brace installed. The engine crossmembers measures 29.5" center to center. Brian

FWIW; these appear to be chromed? Brian

This one? Yes takes just a bit of finesse. Brian

At the radiator with a thermometer. Brian

Soldering iron and silver solder?

OK. Not familiar with that set up. Brian

These?

If you're looking they can been seen. I painted mine black. Good time to install the splash shield. Brian

OK got some new info and the results are ... it's the dash gauge and Rocketman is the recommended vendor for recalibration. I did put the Spectra FG 86B in the car Oct. 10, 2019 at 20,280 miles. Kept a record of gas fill ups, ohm readings and mileage. End result was with the gas gauge needle dead on E I got a 65 ohm reading. I still had about 5 gallons of gas in the tank. Bill Basore at Desert Classic Parts refurbished my C9WE-9275-A Sender. I installed it yesterday, at 22,325 miles, with much the same results. With an empty tank and the needle below E I got a 66 ohm reading. With 3 gallons in the tank I got a 53 ohm reading and with 20 gallons, at $6.70 a gallon, I got a 10 ohm reading. I called Basore, relayed my findings and he confirmed the dash gauge was the problem. Basore took a bit more time to explain the why and how but that's the short story. When I pulled the Spectra unit the float had an eyedropper of gas in it. Other than that the Spectra sender did a good job. Because I am not taking my dash apart to get the gauge out, right away, I will live with Empty means 3 gallons of gas in the tank. Close enough. Brian

I run the stock tach and I will suggest you get one big enough to see. My stock set up is so far inset in the dash cluster it takes a while to focus. I don't like taking my eyes off the road for that long. Numbers are not big enough and the lighting is poor. I have mine taped/marked with the important numbers. A large one on the column with shift points/lights would be the ticket. Brian

So what's under the hood? How close to stock is the drive train? Brian

I took a look at what's in my PDB car. I am running the AUTOLITE C6OB-13480-A. Can't explain the why or how but it works. Maybe try a C9ZZ-13480-A switch and see what happens?

As I recall it was a switch 'spring tension' difference? A description of the problem might help with a solution. Some adjustment is possible but it is at the booster push rod. Do you have a booster? Brian

Two switches' available; one for power disc brakes C9ZZ-13480-B SW-864 and non-power C9ZZ-13480-A SW-863. Brian

Welcome to the site. Before converting to EFI you might try a basic tune up? Plugs, points and condenser or an oil and filter change? Get the Ford Shop Manuals for your car. Start learning the names of parts and their functions. Then try asking a few questions? See how it goes. Brian

Casgar you should know that while those 3 holes are vacant on my car my hood latch support does line up perfectly with the center threaded hole in your crossmember photo. Brian

Those 'three bolt holes' are vacant on my car. Brian

I verified my original 69 glass bracket locations with the Suesz measurements. Accurate. Brian

I spent a lifetime in residential and mostly commercial construction. I found Structural Engineers to be the best to work with. Mostly because they over engineer evrything by at least 150%. Brian

The Forum Administrators will be of more help. Brian

very upper right. click on the 'box'?

The 70 Brake pedal, 70 support and 70 brake booster would be your major elements under the dash. Brian