rwcstang

@larryc94 very nice, do you happen to know if you bought the 80/20 loop or Nylon loop carpet?

Has anyone had any experience in using this kit? Trunk Mat Set

If you have Instagram or Facebook, look up peninsula mustangs, its mainly new mustangs but once a month, they meet at at fashion island (Foster City) but I hang with a small group of classics mustang owners, we are ages between 20-35. We try to do a cruise or meet 1-2 times a month. feel free to add me in IG @datwild69 and ill send you an invite to the next meet.

I have a tko600 MDL Kit installed on my 69 coupe. No cutting from what I remember. Im using an external clutch slave which helps with pedal effort, Im located in the in the bay area aswell, dont mind meeting you at a cars and coffee to show you.

maybe incorrect seals? Disc Brake Distribution Block and Proportioning Valve Rebuild - How To

agreed, Im going this route once I go EFI, the stealth tank can handle both EFI and Carb Set ups. its matter of getting a fuel regulator and correct hose.

to answer your first question: my current 392w stroker had a "street fighter" c4 from performance automatic with a 2500 stall convertor and I had stock open 3:00 diff, it was a good platform and nothing ever broke as I was on street tires. I would definitely look into performance automatic if you decided to stay with the c4 or you can buy their 4spd auto. I decided to go manual as that was the original goal, so I went with a TKO0600 and went with a trutrac ford 9 w/3:50 gears. I was able to put down 360rwhp and 400rwtq after dyno and tune. if there was a 5-6 speed auto that could fit with no cutting/mods I would have gone this route. For the 302/351w: both 302//351w are great platforms, though the power you are wanting to make, I think the 331 should be easy build, but the 302 block has limitations if you are trying to achieve max power, thats when the 351w comes in to play, they can take up to 600hp no problem. price is roughly the same with both engines, with a 351w you are limited to intake options, if you stay with the stock hood, I wanted the edelbrock airgap but I read there was clearance issues with the stock hood and some ppl recommended going with a cowl hood. I went with the weiand stealth intake instead, to keep my stock hood and I make good power overall. the 302's are easier to work on, they are smaller and no clearance issues, 351w are somewhat wider and taller and can get tight under the hood if you go with big heads and headers, servicing the 351w can be tiresome, which is why some ppl tend to stay with a 302 but 351w can take more power. of course, these opinions can be eliminated if you went with a dart block, then I suggest going with the 331.

@danno curious would this fit a 69 if I were to change the push rod?

Pro touring is the look I'm going for. 69-70 coupes always go to the poormans 302/429 boss look. I wanted to be different, wanted to add a bit of mordern ford OE Parts and color. Inspiration came from the cali special, new edge fr500 concept and the termy 03-04 cobra. Silver and Black wheels look so good! just a summary of what I went with: 393w stroker (dyno 360 RWHP, 400RWTQ) TKO600 kit from MDL Street or Track Front Coil over suspension w/ Bilstein Sport Shocks 4.5 Mid eye Grab-a-Track Leaf springs w/Bilstein Sport shocks Vintage Venom (RIP) 03-04 Cobra front and rear brake kit Ford 9 TruTrac w/3:50's Dakota RTX Gauges (still getting used to this, but so far its great!) Vintage Venom front and rear 03-04 cobra brake kit 18x9/10 FR500's from americanmuscle.com 245/275x40x18 BFGoodrich Sport Comp 2 Summer Tires Ford Ingot Silver, Paint Code UX

i thought about this kit aswell, can I also use my OE power steering linkage or is that the take away when using this setup that it only connects for the brakes only and end up with manual steering?

I saw this PCV in VMF, but no one updated the thread if it actually works, can you describe what what it made it better, smoother idle/take off?

Hi @barnett468, I tired sending you a message seems you cannot receive messages. if you hear or anyone hears of anything feel free to email me ashcazzalli@gmail.com

feel free to message me with some photos, I might be interested.

tried sending you a message, ur inbox was full.

totally agree, and I did my homework learned on how to ID a mach 1 or FB in general, Brian hit the nail on the head. when I texted him the first time, he didn't want to give up any information other than ppl were asking about the listing and someone offered 20k which he offered a viewing today at 4-5pm (pst). I told him I was not interested in a bidding war. luckily someone saw the car and called him out.

yeah, he called me back asking if I was still interested in the car I, told him I saw his updated listing and I wasn't interested as it wasn't a real FB/Mach 1. The car is pretty much worthless and should just be a parts car. Im still looking around for a 69 FB, I would love to pick one up locally in CA, budget is between 15-25k. I know FB prices are going up, so decided to look for one this year, since Im done with my coupe. if I dont find one, Im just probably going to buy a used s550 mustang.

you are right. he reposted the listing with more information looks like someone checked it out and realized it wasn't a FB or Mach1: "69 Mustang Fastback. Certified 351 Cleveland rebuilt engine n 3 speed transmission. Dangerously powerful! Originally a convertible. $13999 OBO. Cash only." He was trying to have a bidding war he listed it for 12k, then 16k then finally 20k, he then re-edited his posting to 13k obo. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/d/san-mateo-69-mustang-fastback/7147890181.html

Hi Everyone, So I have found a 69 Mustang Fastback "Mach 1"for sale, owner claims its a True Mach 1 the seller doesnt want to share the vin afraid of someone might steal it.. (red flag) anyways, from the pictures the car looks like a 351w with an auto transmission, I dont think its an original motor/transmission, car looks to be 95% percent complete, claims rebuilt. I know the typical stuff to look for, as for rust in the floor pans, shock tower holes, qtr panels, torque boxes and b pillars. Also, Im going to ask for any documentation in regards to any repairs and see if he can provide DMV report to see if there is anything hidden. car has old paint but not original, clear is peeling off, looks like someone hasn't driven it in years, I know in CA ppl tend to be high off their minds and asking 35k for a rust bucket. I was wondering how much 69 fastbacks run for in the current market and what to look out/ask for. Best,

what model pump do you have is it an early model or late model power steering pump? also can you share a video? that might help.

I think 2nd looks nice, but lighter in color, the 3rd looks close but needs more flake but need to see it under more light, you can buy flake powder and they have different grains of flake, but it can cost a pretty penny. I would reach out to another paint distributor company that sells the top tier brands like PPG/Spies/Dupont to see if they can scan your fender or have them call their rep to see if they can can you an updated formula/code looking on the internet, I see there are some brands that sells the color. https://shop.thecoatingstore.com/1969-Ford-Mustang-Lime-Gold-I-Car-Kit-1969-FORD-MUSTANG-I-CKIT.htm

the picture you posted was that under direct sunlight or a light that body shops use to dry the clear/paint? I'm with DreamCar, I worked for a distributor that sold Paint to body shops in the bay area in my early 20's and the major problem with these shops working on old cars was trying to figure out how to blend old paint(lacquer) with new (waterbourne). you can be the best painter in the world and have a paint scanner, BUT even the machine/painters experience wont be 100% accurate. which is why some ppl have the whole car re-painted or paint the one area that needs work and deal with it, not saying you won't be able to do it, just it wont be 100% paint match. most of the older paint codes are usually not updated but if you call the paint the distributor near you (to scan your fender) or call the manufacturer, possibly Dupont/PPG they may have it on file or could possibly see if they can give you an updated formula/code but that's a gamble and not sure if they would help out unless the painter/shop is a top earner in the area. also, paint brands play a huge part on how rich the color is: Spies Hecker (top tier) which i have on my car and love, PPG (top tier) and Dupont & Nason (medium to low tier). Also, my car is silver and had it painted 3 times because of this issue, I had to choose a color from a modern car as the painters could not match the silver, I also didn't have a paint code so that didn't help, on my 3rd paint job.. I chose ford's Ingot Silver (UX) and never looked back.

does your valve covers have baffles and what type of PCV/breather system do you have push in/Screw in?

they are still in business, but they were bought out by an equity firm. https://thebrakereport.com/stainless-steel-brakes-reborn-in-western-new-york/

Just to update this thread, Pressure plate on the MDL Clutch Failed, clutch looked fine after digging, the pressure plate is made by Seco (korean Company)http://www.secoautomotive.com/eng/products/clutch-cover.php. Im sure their clutch is made by them aswell, though MDL's site clutch is made in-house & inspected. there is a possibility this was outsourced to this company in korea to keep cost down. also, my external slave was leaking, looked like black grease and pieces of the seal was deteriorating. also, had the transmission shop reach out to them asking if there was an upgrade to the external slave cylinder, says this is the best one. is there any other slave cylinders that have a 2 1/8 mounting hole? all other ext. slave cylinder looks to have the 2 3/8 mounting hole. Any suggestions would be great, as Im currently out of $100 bucks from MDL on getting a replacement. not to bash on MDL, but they could be a little more affordable and provide better warranty on their products.

stock rods are adjustable, but if you looking for performance, they won't hold poly's, I would toss the stock strut rods and go with Street or Track; https://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Adjustable-Strut-Rods-pr-16135.html if you are staying with the stock suspension.