Midlife

Someone we know made it to an Internet Mustang magazine...
http://www.fordmuscle.com/news/power-profile-randy-jacobsons-midlife-is-no-crisis/

You can also adjust the center of the wheel by adjusting the two idler arm links, like you do for toe alignment adjustments.  Simply move both sleeves in the same direction, which keeps the wheels straight.

Someone we know made it to an Internet Mustang magazine...
http://www.fordmuscle.com/news/power-profile-randy-jacobsons-midlife-is-no-crisis/

They are actually about $75 each. 
I have some Ford documentation stating that these circuit cards were introduced to improve reliability.  I think not (speaking as a certified Reliability Engineer from the American Society of Quality).  They are still using them today, but I don't think Ford ever intended them to last 40-50 years.  The earlier design of wiring bulbs and connectors directly to the gauges is much more reliable.
I think the term "more reliable" is better explained as "cheaper".

Someone we know made it to an Internet Mustang magazine...
http://www.fordmuscle.com/news/power-profile-randy-jacobsons-midlife-is-no-crisis/

They are actually about $75 each. 
I have some Ford documentation stating that these circuit cards were introduced to improve reliability.  I think not (speaking as a certified Reliability Engineer from the American Society of Quality).  They are still using them today, but I don't think Ford ever intended them to last 40-50 years.  The earlier design of wiring bulbs and connectors directly to the gauges is much more reliable.
I think the term "more reliable" is better explained as "cheaper".

You're not looking hard enough...

Yeah, I've yet to find a glove to keep LT off my fingers.  I have a permanent case of dermatitis, or so it seems.  Oh well, cost of doing business.
 
Oh, and that isn't the wifey, that's Ms. Bank of Midlife.  There's extra charges for "handling" if you know what I mean.  Oh yes, in addition, there's substantial penalties for early withdrawl.  It's fun to run a bank!

Absolutely not!  I use LT exclusively (I go through about 5 gallons per year) to clean wiring harnesses, although some plastic plugs from 70-73 seem to "melt" with LT is applied.  In those cases, I use Formula 409 or vinegar.  The only wires that LT will remove the color are those wires that are painted at the factory.  Typically, they are fuel sensor lines near the trunk area, fusible links, and occasionally lines that go to the coil.  All of these wires have very thick rubbery insulation, not the standard PVC insulation.  PVC colors and stripes are impregnated into the insulation as they are extruded during manufacture.
Don't believe everything you hear or read on the Internet.  Back in 1998, the wifey warned me about going onto forums, as they are frequented by Internet Ax Murderers.  Nonsense.  They were Chainsaw Murderers.

Absolutely not!  I use LT exclusively (I go through about 5 gallons per year) to clean wiring harnesses, although some plastic plugs from 70-73 seem to "melt" with LT is applied.  In those cases, I use Formula 409 or vinegar.  The only wires that LT will remove the color are those wires that are painted at the factory.  Typically, they are fuel sensor lines near the trunk area, fusible links, and occasionally lines that go to the coil.  All of these wires have very thick rubbery insulation, not the standard PVC insulation.  PVC colors and stripes are impregnated into the insulation as they are extruded during manufacture.
Don't believe everything you hear or read on the Internet.  Back in 1998, the wifey warned me about going onto forums, as they are frequented by Internet Ax Murderers.  Nonsense.  They were Chainsaw Murderers.

The kill switch will work well on the line from the coil to the points.
Me?  I simply remove the gas tank and carry it around with me.  Anyone who hot-wires the car isn't going to go far with what little gas is in the carb. 

The kill switch will work well on the line from the coil to the points.
Me?  I simply remove the gas tank and carry it around with me.  Anyone who hot-wires the car isn't going to go far with what little gas is in the carb. 

Is this the same as what is known as an English Wheel?  Gawd, I'd love to have one in my shop!

We're in contact, and boy, is that plug UGLY.  Usually with burned wires, I end up replacing the whole harness, as it is much easier to do. 

It's simply amazing how the tree growers can get tree limbs to grow into these consistent shapes and still be so thin.  I've heard that it helps to have Nagas nibble on the trees.

Let's everyone send a PM to RidgeRunner and cause him a Denial of Service! 
 
Just kidding...just kidding.

All I know and all that I can say is that two heads are better than one....

Home alignment is not rocket science, and I've done it several times with excellent success.  I've always taken it to an old timer's shop, and he's been impressed with my results, just tweaking things ever so slightly.  There's a number of tools out there that will do the job; this is the one I use.
https://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/RPWCasterCamberGauge9500/Caster_Camber_Gauges
The one trick I read about on the 'Net was to use large plastic trash bags, folded in half, under the front tires so that they can easily be turned without friction, which would alter the readings.
 

Mach1Driver:
Excellent description, and you took more time and effort than I can do it justice.  But, but, BUT: you had to let out the secret that electrons flow from negative to positive?  For that, you should be banned from the Exalted and Holy Electrical Union and forced to turn in your union card!  *G*

Gauge Operation
EDIT: When saved the drawing that went here was deleted. Dang this doesn't make a whole lot of sense without it! I'll try attaching a Word file.
To fully understand this you have to understand that everything electrical needs power to come in and go out. The two “Chassis Grounds” (one at each end) are connected together through the metal of the chassis. They did this to save money. Instead of running two wires they only run the power wire and connect to the chassis for the other. So current leaves the battery, goes through the sender, gauge, dash regulator, and back to the battery. Power in and out. Actual current flow is from negative to positive, not positive to negative as Benjamin Franklin arbitrarily assigned it. Heck he had a 50-50 chance, but maybe the whole thing with the lightning, kite and key used up some of this luck.
1. The Battery: (or alternator- it doesn’t matter which) supplies the power.
2. The Dash Voltage Regulator: knocks the voltage down to 5v. Why? Because that's the voltage they designed the gauges to run on. They didn't want sparks in the gas tank. Those old regulators are quirky little devices. They heat up a bi-metal that opens a switch, and that cools it off, and it does it again and again continually until the key is turned off. This makes the output: on-off-on-off-etc. They have it set up to be “on” for 42% of the time so over time you get an on-off cycle that averages 5v. The gauges are “dampened” to react slowly to this on-off so it seems like a steady 5v to them. Today we use a solid state circuit to get us an instantaneous solid 5v. You can replace your old style dash regulator for one if you like.
3. The Gauge: this is really a simple motor that turns less than 180 degrees and has a pointer stuck on the end of the shaft. As I said, it is dampened so it responds slowly to input.
4. The Sender: is a variable resistor. Its a resistor that is variable. A resistor impedes (limits) current flow. You can think of it as a valve if you like, that can be open a little or a lot. All the senders on our old Mustangs vary from 10 to 78 ohms. It doesn’t matter if its an oil gauge or a gas gauge. So if the sender was at 10 ohms you would get the maximum amount of current through the motor (gauge) and get HI pressure or a FULL tank, but if it was at 78 ohms you would get the minimum amount of current through the gauge and get LOW pressure or an EMPTY tank. 
So your oil gauge doesn’t work; connect the wire at the sender to the block for a short period of time and see if the gauge responds. Don’t leave it on too long because the minimum resistance is supposed to be 10 ohms, not zero. The gauges are dampened so a short time won’t hurt, just don’t peg the gauge all the way over. If the gauge responds then replace the sender. If it doesn’t then it could be an open circuit (wire off) from the dash regulator to the gauge, or from the gauge to the sender, or a bad gauge. Instead of running wires on the back of the dash they saved money again and used a “Circuit Board”, which is copper printed on plastic. These can delaminate and get open spots over time but are available from the popular parts houses, or you can use real wires from one of our members- Midlife who makes a nice harness. Next, connect an ohmmeter to the wire at the gauge and the other at the sender end of the wire with it disconnected from the sender. It should read very close to zero. If it doesn’t then the wire is bad. The wire is #31 (white with red stripe) and goes from the sender through a plug (somewhere near the sender) then up to the plug for the circuit board. Its right in the middle of the plug, look for the white/red wire and connect the ohmmeter there and at the sender end. You can also test the gauge here. Connect a wire to chassis momentarily to see if the gauge responds. The key has to be on so make sure nothing is shorted with the gauge cluster pulled out, then connect to the white/red wire and chassis. If the gauge doesn’t move it is either the gauge or the circuit board.
Ammeters in these beasts are a real weak link and usually only work for a short period of time. I can’t remember if mine ever worked. You can send them out and have them converted to a volt meter, which makes more sense anyway. They can keep the stock dial so it still looks like an ammeter if you are in to originality.
 
 
 
Gauge operation, oil pressure.doc

I'm in contact with 390Mach1, and awaiting specific information from him so I can craft up what he's looking for.  It appears it is not the male bullet to grommet to 90* connector/long extension in its entirety. 
Good to know that the long piece is for single exhaust and the short section for dual exhaust....I knew there was a difference but couldn't figure out which was which.  The extension above appears to be fairly rare, at least within my stock of 20+ tail-light harnesses.

Almost sounds like your bartender could add that to your JB...

I was at the local drug store picking up some prescriptions (yeah, Dude... those are some really good meds!) and a fairly old gentleman rolled up in a candy apple red 69 convertible that was in great condition (at least from 10 feet away).  As he got out, I said that is one nice 69 convertible, and he replied I normally don't acknowledge with a Thank You, as he spent a lot of time refurbishing it.  I thought that was a strange response from a car guy.  He's not into any of the local car clubs, including our Mustang club.  Anyway, I asked him what engine, and he said a 351.  Again, I said very nice as he walked into a grocery store next door.  One peculiar thing I noticed is that it had a front spoiler, which I don't believe came with the car originally.
No pictures, although I did have my smart phone on me.  Despite it's name, that phone doesn't make me any smarter because I always forget it has a built-in camera.  I really think they should call them Dumb-A** phones.
Anyway, I thought this might be a good thread for those on the forum to post pictures or incidents of 69/70's that they see out and about on the roads or parking lots.

Ford spec'ed the timing for the widest range of operating conditions, with the hardest to comply was high elevations (e.g. 8000 feet).  The goal was a quiet, smooth idle that would work just about anywhere, anytime that reduced vibration, harshness, and noise.  In fact, one typically gets better fuel mileage (efficiency) with a bit more advance and simultaneously a cooler running engine.  However, those settings won't work in a wide range of environmental conditions, which is why us old geezers recommend tuning and setting timing for YOUR engine and YOUR environment.
As they say, Your Mileage May Vary.

I was at the local drug store picking up some prescriptions (yeah, Dude... those are some really good meds!) and a fairly old gentleman rolled up in a candy apple red 69 convertible that was in great condition (at least from 10 feet away).  As he got out, I said that is one nice 69 convertible, and he replied I normally don't acknowledge with a Thank You, as he spent a lot of time refurbishing it.  I thought that was a strange response from a car guy.  He's not into any of the local car clubs, including our Mustang club.  Anyway, I asked him what engine, and he said a 351.  Again, I said very nice as he walked into a grocery store next door.  One peculiar thing I noticed is that it had a front spoiler, which I don't believe came with the car originally.
No pictures, although I did have my smart phone on me.  Despite it's name, that phone doesn't make me any smarter because I always forget it has a built-in camera.  I really think they should call them Dumb-A** phones.
Anyway, I thought this might be a good thread for those on the forum to post pictures or incidents of 69/70's that they see out and about on the roads or parking lots.