Midlife

For male pins, a Bic pen shell works good, according to the Ford Shop Manual. Personally, I have used a jeweler's screwdriver, ground down on one side to half of its thickness. I use it on the female pins between the pin and the housing to bend the locking tab back, and on the male pins. The locking tab is 180* from the vertical slot where the pin sides come together in a joint.

I lost 25 pounds when the forum was down: no spam available....

I think I know you from another forum...Welcome!

Just curious why it was down for 10 or so days...I so missed my Russian spam!

Orange is left; black is ground, white is right.

Bic ball point pen shell, but you first have to remove the clear plastic protector in the connector. Personally, I use a jeweler's screwdriver, ground down on one side such that I can slip it in between the shell and the pin (female pins), or press on the locking tab for male pins. It is a pain, but it does work well.

A customer called me today about a problem with his 70. It would crank with the red/blue wire on the first post of the starter solenoid but not when the brown wire was attached there. He said the assembly manual had it that way. No way, I said! Sure enough: look at page EO-115-1, View A, and the red/blue wire is indicated with A and the brown wire as E with the E in front and the A in back! Just because it was printed on paper, doesn't mean it is correct... So now it is on the Internet and the error is correct.

I'm LOLMFAO or I should say Robert is LOLHFAO!

Just don't call me late for dinner.

Push/pull the damn wire through the bundle after it has been crimped to stiff bailing wire. Next questions: what's the difference between side and top oiler 427s? Why were 427's popular as marine engines? What generally has more torque: bore greater than stroke or stroke greater than bore, or is it really the engine design itself?

Not building anything; just confused over the years and wanted to know the difference in seat-of-the-pants from end-users.

I hope this is the right forum (I thought Garage might be OK as well) to find out about these three engines and their positives and negatives. I get them confused all the time, and Ford actually had all three available about the same time frame (68-70), which doesn't make a whole lot of sense if an auto manufacturer is trying to save money. I do know that: 427 is 4.23x3.78 (bore x stroke), FE (not including SOHC version) 428 is 4.13 x 3.98, also an FE 429 is 4.36 x 3.59, 385 block design (non-Boss variants) My question(s) is: what advantages/disadvantages from the end-user's point of view of each of these three beasts? Does one make more power at high RPM? Does one have significantly more torque? Which one has better street or strip manners? What are the good design aspects and bad design issues that someone might be concerned about? What about aftermarket support? Are they interchangeable from a motor mount/tranny attachments? I take it heads from the 427/428 are not interchangeable? Tell me... And if you want me to get really excited, any pictures of a SOHC 427 will do wonders! *G*

Will do, but my name is Randy! *G*

Fiat seats are probably available in the junk yard from very low mileage cars with bad engines.

You can call me Robert or Randy, but don't call be late for dinner! You're more than welcome. The best part of responding was trouble-shooting and finding the correct problem so it can be repaired properly.

Try some strong plastic guitar string rather than metal. I'd hate to have the glass fracture due to glass/metal contact. What I've seen done before is a razor blade cut through the rubber molding on the outside after the trim has been removed; then a person inside pushes on the window while a person outside catches it. To me, that seems to be a easier way to do things, don't you?

For the record, there are two resistor wires, and I gave the OP misinformation. The first resistor wire of 10.0 ohms, runs from ACC to the CVR input pin on the dash cluster. The second resistor wire, specific to tach dashes or dashes with alternator indicator lamps, also runs from ACC power but goes to a pin on the fuse box connector that mates with the headlight harness. Typically, both resistor wires start near the ignition switch: one at the pin itself and another at a factory OEM splice a few inches above the ignition switch connector. There's a third resistor wire of 1.5 ohms: the infamous pink resistor wire that chokes the coil voltage and current. I'm putting my money on the idea that the ignition switch connector had to be changed sometime in the past, and this tach specific wire was not spliced back in or fell out of the crimp. It cannot be soldered, and being a single wire strand, is difficult to crimp by itself. It has to be reinforced with another wire segment when crimping; the other end of this section of wire goes nowhere, explaining the black wire on the dash cluster pin that is loose by itself when the tape is unraveled.

That is the main flaw of all of the Internet sites that describe how to convert a standard to a tach instrument panel. I had that resistor wire reverse-engineered by a specialty wiring company who then produced in a 2000 foot roll (minimum order size) that cost me well over $500 so that I could properly convert underdash harnesses.

OK...that does it. A 1. by itself means that it is an open circuit, with resistance higher than can be measured. Your resistor wire is broken or not attached. That and a bad bulb or bad trace on the circuit board will cause the Voltage Regulator not to be activated. Ta-Da! Houston, we have resolution!

Aha! You need to measure not between P and 5, but the fuse clip for ACC power on the other side of the fuse box. P is battery power, not ACC power. Your pin 5 is correct. Furthermore, you're reading on the headlight side of the harness; I need you to measure on the underdash harness side (female pins). The resistor wire is on the underdash harness, not the headlight harness which is where you are reading things now.

Yes, it is a tach car (info from PM). That's what I am thinking as well.

That method can also fry the diodes in the alternator. If alternator checks out and VR checks out, I'd suspect a wiring issue. Take it to Pep Boys or Autozone and they can do an in-body charging test and diagnose what's wrong.

+1.

The reason for the flat black vice glossy back from the factory is to reduce the reflection glare of sunlight off of the hood.

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