Alan_Mac

You might want to try 100% gas (no ethanol). What is your timing set at? With 300 miles the motor, it could be tight. When my motor was rebuilt it had a big overheating problem. I installed Maradyne dual fans with the shroud that fits a 24" radiator. (~2800 cfm) and it solved the problem.

I tried many breather caps and at one time had one on each side using two driver side Branda high valve covers with tubes. I still have a new valve cover like this is anyone needs one. They all popped up at high RPM. This arrangement fixed my problem. I expect there is enough vacuum in the air cleaner tube at WOT to aid in crankcase evacuation.

http://mewagner.com DF-17 Dual Flow PCV Valve #1

I have the adjustable PCV value as shown in this picture. I was always popping my breather caps with high RPM bursts until I added the adjustable PCV valve plumbed the breather to my ram air base.

http://mewagner.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Hemmings-Muscle-Machine-Jan-2016-p64-67.pdf Also the tech articles at M/E Wagner are a good read.

http://mewagner.com/?p=444 no big deal setting it up. Not cheap but it works great.

It would also help if the drivers side breather was connected to the air cleaner base. I use and adjustable PCV and it fixed my problem.

The heater hoses route better when reversed. The heater core flow will be the same if the fluid moves from from top to bottom or bottom to top.

Well I just found out that my 70 351w heater hoses are reversed. HaHa they have been that way forever. I don't see how this could affect anything.

Drain, fill with coolant, run it up to running temperature. Test the coolant to make sure its well below the lowest temperature you will see outside.

maybe call moroso for a pcv tube recommendation?

I have an adjustable PCV installed with this cap. Finally my crankcase is vented correctly as my cap stays in the fully seated position after WOT blasts. The air cleaner connection provides a pressure drop to help vent the crankcase. I recommend not to use a cap w/o the air cleaner connection.

I replace a few of them successfully. I am not sure what I used to push it far enough to grab it with either a needle nose or vice grip pliers.

You can install the rear main seal successfully without taking the FMX out. I used felpro fluorelastomer 2 piece seals with no leaking on my 351w. Apparently Felpro no longer makes it. I would not use a rubber main seal. I would use this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cgt-c5689/overview/make/ford Like previously mentioned offset the edges by 1/4" . put a dab of suitable RTV on the ends of the cap side seal. No need for RTV anywhere else on the seals. Make sure you install them in the correct orientation.

another option http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Interior/jme_697.htm

I would have OEM moldings restored.

Pictures available upon request. All parts in great condition, price OBO + shipping from 97008 Auto Meter Street tach - 3.750 dia, white letters, orange pointer, black housing. similar to this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2300/overview/ $20 1970 20 in. radiator shroud - Ford NOS no AC $15 1970 mustang deluxe center console wood grain piece mounted on black console top for automatic $20 1970 Mach1 door panel wood grain pieces $20 The club, steering wheel anti theft device. - https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/the-club-the-original-club-steering-wheel-lock-and-vehicle-anti-theft-device-1000/6260000-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=6260000-P&adtype=pla_with_promotion&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq8SRwf2F3AIVCL3sCh3qkAw0EAQYAiABEgJbp_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds $15 Alan

My mom bought a new 69 coupe with the sport decor group. It was green with a dark green vinyl top. It had sport mirrors on both sides, hood scoop and a black with gold strip running front to back along the upper body edge. It had a 250 six in it.

Hi Midlife, I would like to add the rcci relays on my Scott drake headlights but have totally run out of post on my starter relay positive post. Does anyone have a safe solution to common all these positive wires in a neat and safe way? I envision a common (6-10 circuit) terminal block with a plastic cover to protect the wire from accidental shorting. edit, maybe this would work well? https://www.bluesea.com/products/5028/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_6_Circuits_with_Cover

Its been a couple of months since you last update, are you procrastinating again? Alan

I have a performer RPM on my 418W with a shaker. As a reference point, It is as tall as you can go with a shaker w/o lowering something. Back when I built this motor, I had a 780. I had it on a rear wheel dyno before and after a fairly mild runner flow balancing and size increase. There was a very noticeable increase in power and the engine sounded louder, like it could breath better. I think the Performer RPM is a great manifold that can be made even better with a little work. Alan

I will point them at 2:00 like the 70 brochure. I vaguely remember this position. Thanks to everyone for the input. Alan

The latch on the front bucket seats. Which way did it point from the factory? Sorry I wasn't clear.

Does the seat back latch point forward? Thanks. Alan

FPA = Great 1 3/4 Headers with wide bolt pattern.