Alan_Mac

I have all replacement AMP harness's (excellent reproduction) and have all kinds of aftermarket electrical additions. Not a single splice in any of my harness's. I made a simple secondary circuit that energizes all my additions. It has a constant on solenoid (from NAPA) that turns on the circuit in the on and run position. All color coded wires and it fits neatly under the dash. I installed this 8-10 years ago and no problems. Its a great alternative if you don't want to rebuild your complete electrical system with an custom aftermarket harness. Here is the link for the instructions to make the circuit. http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2006/10/12VKeyOn/index.php

I have all replacement AMP harness's (excellent reproduction) and have all kinds of aftermarket electrical additions. Not a single splice in any of my harness's. I made a simple secondary circuit that energizes all my additions. It has a constant on solenoid (from NAPA) that turns on the circuit in the on and run position. All color coded wires and it fits neatly under the dash. I installed this 8-10 years ago and no problems. Its a great alternative if you don't want to rebuild your complete electrical system with an custom aftermarket harness. Here is the link for the instructions to make the circuit. http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2006/10/12VKeyOn/index.php

Not sure if you did this but I would do the following. You have enough information to calculate the spring rate. You need the free height also. Calculate the V closed and V open force to determine if it is correct. If not go buy the stock springs.

I was looking at an Energy Star Whynter Model # RPD-302W that can do what you describe. Everyone likes this model. I can run the hose down to a garage sink.

I replaced clear windshield with a Carlite a few years back. As I remember, Carlite didn't make clear and also the tint is different.

I live in Portland OR...we experience lots of rain through the winter. I have a three car garage and when a wet car comes in, the humidity can be very high. I am thinking of putting a small dehumidifier in the garage to help preserve my Mach1. My new Sport R interior will probably stay better. Does anyone do this and have any experience to share?

I also converted to quartz. Mine keeps time perfectly. Like previous mentioned the second hand move smoothly.

I also converted to quartz. Mine keeps time perfectly. Like previous mentioned the second hand move smoothly.

I also bought additional shims from TCP..

I stopped using ethanol gas because it idled differently with different gas. I use pure gas and it idles and runs the same all the time. I will never put ethanol gas in my Mach1 again. I use(d) an Innovate WB to tune my carb, and it works great. No need to go back and fuss with the carb since my gas is stable. A window fan blowing on the engine would help when you tune.

I wouldn't count on the twist locks since they are not positive locking.

I think 69 /70 JME instrument set up looks very good. I like that a full set of gauges fit all in one and are basically plug and play wit the Ford harness. I see the electric speedo as a benefit also. With all the bells and whistles it gets expensive. I almost purchased a the JME but there wasn't a 70 panel and there were some problems with delivery time and customer service as I remember. I ended up getting an OEM tach setup with the two gauge pod in the center console astray.

My opinion is anything you can do to make these cars safer is going in the right direction. Two coworkers of my wife just died from an over the median front end collision in a 93 Sentra and I believe they have a couple airbags. Our family friend died in a car with a gas fire.

I found for repop, A M P are perfect except for the price. My complete car is done with A M P. :)

jmlay thanks for the response. I read this post last year and checked the shifter switch and it was ok. No code thrown on the transmission either. Probably not the TQ converter. When driving down the road you can hear a gear meshing sound. One trans guy thinks the input sprag gear on the OD unit is worn? I had two transmission guys tell me its an internal trans. problem. We have to decide if its worth it to put a reman trans in. This trooper has 142K miles on it, it has new tires, brakes, shocks, radiator, timing belt and water pump. It also needs new valve guide seals and the sending unit replaced in the tank. This is an extra vehicle for using in the Oregon outback and when kids come home on holiday. I can do the work, but dread changing the trans. Its up to the wife. Alan

For you transmission experts (which I am not) your opinion is greatly appreciated. My wife has an 2001 Isuzu Trooper with the GM power train and 4L30E transmission. The failure happens when you are on a slight upgrade in any gear just before you would expect a downshift, power is disconnected and noise like gears slipping is heard. I downshift it manually and it engages. The RPM does fluctuate up by a few hundred RPM and then down and seem to lock in sometimes just going down the road. The gas mileage is about 1/2 of normal. I had the pump pressure tested and it is within spec, no problem. My guess is the toque converter stator assembly is failing. I dread replacing this TQ converter since it is 4 wheel drive. HELP!

I have the magnaflow true X system. I would use a cross over pipe that has flanges that mount on dual exhaust pipes, so no restriction. I believe I saw some that were three pieces, two flange pipes and the middle pipe that is cut to fit in between.

Are these the backlight series? Please tell us more. How about the hookup, fuel and E speedo? They look awesome. Pictures day and night would be great to see.

I have the original tach gauge set with autometer temp and pressure in the console pod. My OEM tach has VDO internals. I really think the black face VHX are great looking and affordable. Its nice to get all the gauges in the original dash. http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p25/Alan_MacDougall/Mach1/dash3-14_zps768a75c4.jpg

Rimblow buddy did mine ~ 2 yrs ago. My understanding is the resto guy retired around then so they had a personnel change. I was happy with the coverage of the brown on my rimblow, they took it back a made it near perfect. I would use them again. Its in my pictures at the link below.

If you have or can purchase a rimblow in need of resto, rimblow buddy could be an option.

My 70 Mach1 Shaker H code car had the seal stapled from the factory.

awesome find and really great prices!

Anyone have a good method to paint the fin tops with silver? Any recommendations for the correct paint also would be helpful. Goin on vaca, so I might not see this for a while. Thanks Alan

I think a 1 in drop would work well with my 351W with Performer RPM and probably the C. Does it have a fiberglass base with a metal rim on top? Thanks!