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About kennygunit

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    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 08/29/1990

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  1. What in-tank fuel pump do you guys recommend for a Fuel Safe Fuel Cell? I was considering going external, but i don't know if i am going to be able to handle that buzzing those pumps make. 400HP 351w, Open Track Racer/Weekend Warrior. Fuel Safe Fuel Cell
  2. Contemplating deleting the rear seat in my mustang coupe. Its going to be a weekend warrior/open track racer so I don't really plan on using it for passenger transportation. Anyways, I wanted to see pictures of your guys' rear seat deletes! Especially if it was on a 69 Coupe!
  3. I noticed a lot of the harnesses don't come with the square plug that goes into the firewall...where can I get one that has it already? http://www.drakeautomotivegroup.com/Store/Product/C9ZZ-14290-A.aspx?wid=141
  4. I am using the stock wiring harness under the dash, and throughout the rest of the vehicle. The car does not have a tach, but i'm hoping to add one. I believe I just have the main harness connector (square one), and the firewall end of the harness from underdash wiring to engine feeds and alternator/battery area
  5. Hello, Which harnesses do you guys recommend for my 1969 Coupe? I need all the harnesses from the firewall to the headlamps. I plan on running a full MSD ignition with 6AL box, and a 3G Alternator. Also, the battery is in the trunk, but all the solenoids are in the engine bay. Thanks!
  6. I'm looking to upgrade my stock instrument cluster and in not sure which one looks and performs well. So, let's see some pictures of what you all have! Maybe also list... 1) why you got it 2) if you like it or not and why Thanks!
  7. Hello, I think i found a 9" rear axle housing online for my 1969 Mustang coupe, but i want to make sure it correct. I found it used for $200, and it comes with 28 spline axles (i don't need the axles though because i'm going 31 spline). Do these dimensions sound correct? about 54 1/2" housing flange to housing flange, no axles in it Center to center for the perches is about 43 3/4" Are those the right dimension and is that a good price? Thanks!
  8. After we found that problem, we went ahead and started working on balancing my connecting rods. The biggest difference between the lightest and heaviest rod was 10grams, so i had to shave off about 7grams on the big end in order to get it to an acceptable weight. We just used a grinder to shave off the weight. The final thing we did before the weekend was install the rear main seal. Pretty simple, just slid it one with some oil on the inside, and RTV on the outside. We couldn't get it all the way in because the engine stand was in the way, so i'll have to tackle that once its off the stand. Thats it so far! I've ordered a ton of more parts and goodies that will be arriving shortly. Next week I plan on finishing up the bottom end by throwing on a Canton oil pan, the timing chain cover, water pump, fuel pump, and hopefully throw on my new heads! Thanks for reading, and stay tuned!
  9. 12/10/11 I've been doing a lot of work on my engine build! I have about 8 days left to build this motor, so its getting down the wire. I have all the parts i need (except intake and carb), so i've been working on assembly! First thing i did was install my cam bearings. This was a very easy process, just match the bearing number, to the number listed on the box, and with a lot of persuasion, they go right in! After all the cam bearing were in place, we moved onto the freeze plugs. Those were also very easy to install. We just took a socket that was roughly the same size, lined it up, and hammered them in! I received my camshaft in from Comp Cams. I got a lot of input from a lot of different people, and this what i finally decided on: Once the Cam was installed, we moved onto getting the crankshaft put in. The bearings were placed down, and we put the crankshaft on top of them dry so we can get a measurement using plati-gauge. I don't have any pictures of the measurements, but it ended up being .002" (according to alldata, i needed to be at .0015, but my teacher said .002" is more normal, so it will be fine). I torqued the main caps down to 100ft-lbs, and moved onto installing the thrust plate for the camshaft, and the timing chain. I ordered a Comp Cam doubler roller timing chain. Installation for it was very easy. Just needed a little persuasion to get it on. One major problem I ran into was trying to get a fuel pump eccentric to work with the cam pins they provided. Since I am running a carburetor setup, i need to be able to run a mechanical fuel pump. I just got some new pins, but I am not sure if they fit yet. I won't be able to find out until Monday. Thanks for the heads on that Mach 1. I noticed there were 2 pins that came in the box, but even the longer one didn't fit. I just have to be careful that i don't run into any problems with timing chain cover clearance.
  10. Thanks for the advice Mach 1, but i've gotten to the point with my heads where i won't be able to fix it. I've already lost some head material trying to drill out the bolt! Would the 58cc version be better for me? I have flat top pistons, took off .016" from decking and .009" from the heads (.025" total) Stock compression ratio with dish pistons was 8.8:1
  11. Sadly, it doesn't look like i'm going to be able to use my stock heads. The teacher and I spent all class trying to get the bolt out, only to find out during the drilling process, the we won't be able to get it out. So, now i'm back into looking for new heads and cam. I talked to the guys at summit racing, and they suggested this setup: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AFR-1428/ and http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-51402000/ Would i be better off with 58cc or 72cc for the combustion chamber volume? I have flat top pistons
  12. Only reason i am considering new heads is i found a problem with one of the threads on the intake side of one of them. I have to drill out the bolt, and heal-a-coil it. I'm going to keep working on it for the next week, but its getting to the point where i might not have the heads done in time with the rest of the engine! As of now though, i am sticking with the stocks. Just thinking of a backup plan :thumbup:
  13. Hello, I am in the middle of a 96 351w build (there is a thread posted here of my build), and I need some suggestions on which cam and heads to get. I want to get fully assembled heads, as well as a cam thats good enough for autocross and open track events. I also don't want to spend over $2,000 for both. The rest of the engine is stock. Stock bore, crank, roller lifters. Only thing thats been changed is cast flat top pistons. Let me know if you have any suggestions! P.S. I am also looking for an intake a carb if you want to throw in some suggestions on that too!
  14. Hey, I have been thinking about all the new parts i'm going to need. Tomorrow I am going to a local performance shop and going to order a rebuild kit, and see what they would suggest in terms of cams, pistons and other upgrades. Going to get a mild cam and flat top pistons to get better compression. I'm going to get new springs, and all new front accessories. I'll keep you all updated on what i order :thumbup1:
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