JayEstes

Got it on the foam pieces… makes sense. But when you say the "taller white piece" isn't that the part I can find here?: https://www.musclecarresearch.com/C9AZ-7347-A For me it's down to what about that ring with the notches in it? (And kinda why & how & where on the foam pieces. I look at those and it seems I can go get some random packing foam and cut circles in it and use that. ) But where can I get that notched ring? To me that is the hard part. Jay

Guys, Hoping to revisit this topic a bit. I'm in the middle of this now. I have the two plastic pieces shown in the pics that look like they need to be replaced. It looks like the longer tubular piece can be had at the website you mentioned for $20. what about the other notched ring? Can it be purchased to refurb the steering wheel? I don't see any "foam pieces" in my column, I'm not understanding what I need those for from what I see. [ATTACH]18151[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]18152[/ATTACH]

trying to revive this thread from a few years ago... That really is remarkable work! I may very well take this advice as install the same thing. The more I look at those speaker pods, the less I like them. This, while giving up the air vent, as least retains aesthetics, and doesn't seem to get in the way near as much as other solutions. How is this solution on the drivers side? Does it interfere with the headlight switch or the e-brake lever? Could you post pics of drivers side?

That's a beautiful car! May I ask the color? Mine doesn't have paint yet - that color is "in the running"….

Yep! You're right in the center of "backspace envelope" between 3.5 & 5.0 in. Thanks - that's good feedback.

Wow. That's a nice looking piece of leading edge chrome. Few things can make the front of this car look better than a well fitting, shiny piece like this. Looking forward to seeing some pics of one installed.... Jay

Thanks guys- So it sounds like you have almost bookended this for me. With an 8in wide rim, and a 5in backspace, I could have frame rub issues. With a 7in wide rim, if I have <3.5in backspace I could have fender rub. And I guess it stands to reason that an 8in wide rim will have fewer acceptable backspace options than a 7in rim. Any other experiences out there to refine this data? Remember, I am only interested in 15in diameter rims. Thanks! Jay

All, I want to run 235/60's all around on my car. 15in rim diameters. What rim width would work best, and what wheel backspacing is recommended for the wheel. Goals are to avoid any fender rub issues, and avoiding tire rub on the frame. I have a standard 69 coupe with a V8/power front disc brakes. Thanks for any advice or experience here. Jay Estes

Mine (16) has graduated from trunk monkey to driver monkey. We got him a nice '71…. ;-)

Fantastic work. Now we all can have one that is readable and without the endless heavy watermarks making them hard to read. thanks so much. Jay

All, Can anyone help me decipher the markings on my 69 original (I believe) carburetor? See attached pics:

here is what my completely stock rebuild of my 302 cost me: It was done is TX near houston, by an engine shop for racing engines with a good reputation. You should be able to use the info to compare costs. Hope it makes it clearer for you. For me? The whole deal was $2900. Jay

Thats the info I needed guys (never would have known to call it "belt line"….) But Thx! I've got some of these coming now. Really appreciate the tips on replacing - doesn't sound too hard, but as always I'll need to be careful. My backseat quarters are ready for new weatherstrip. pics attached (trim in question is still masked off) Based on other help from this list, I have repainted them with Original Dark Charcoal Metallic from NPD: http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/interior_paint_spray_lacquer-107611-0.html This paint is fantastic. Looks great and has the original color. Hard as nails when it dries. Jay

All, I have the original (steel) interior quarter panels that I am refurbishing right now. They have a small pice of chrome with interior felt/rubber weatherstripping that is (literally) stapled to the steel quarter panel. Ideally I'd like to replace the rubber/felt on the inside, but I am not sure what this part is called or if replacement parts exist for it (or how to attach it). Has anyone refurbished this item? Any experience here is appreciated. (same issue on the interior door trim pieces - can the chrome/felt/rubber weatherstrip be replaced? Thanks! Jay

This was a nice thread to read. Great info, and finally a thread where I don't feel like a freak for wanting to run 15s on my car. And I am really glad to hear that I should be able to expect a 235/60 R15 should work all the way around. I put my front end back stock (good or bad at least all the parts are new now). CANT WAIT TO SEE THE PICS from Zippo! While I like the Magnum 500's, I am interested in some new classic chrome cragars. I'd like to stay away from aluminum wheels. Don't know if there are others out there with this wheel, but would like hear from/see pics if they are out there.

The bolts here are a press-fit type. I still have the original bolts on my mustang. I bought new struts and LCAs and in all four places (2 on each strut) the bolt is still snug when pulled down into the strut rod for tightening. If you are experiencing "play" in this joint when the head of the bolt is down against the strut, I would buy a new strut (and perhaps new bolts). I can't say for sure that welding would embrittle the rod, but it could, and I do agree these see huge shock loads from driving (particularly pot-holes) and I probably wouldn't risk it. If the strut breaks, you can lose steering control and thus control of the car - thats a big failure to risk considering the consequences. If I was going to weld on it, I would consider tac-welding the bolt head to the strut, that way, that bolt shouldn't move relative to the strut under shock loads. Just my personal thoughts… Jay BTW- Boomer Sooner. OU class of 87. :)

Yes. My interior is what I call "all black". it is not a grande. Just a stock config. All the plastic and metal parts are the same color - which you are saying is "dark charcoal metallic". The parts I want to paint are all metallic. Looking at the steering wheel last night, It does likely need paint also. So, the parts I plan to paint are: the metal dash the door trim (just below window, and above the interior door panel) The backseat side panels (interior quarter panels) The steering column Have you had any trouble with this laquer paint on your plastic parts? is it flexible enough to not begin peeling? How do you prep the plastic surface? Thanks for all the help - I appreciate all this feedback. Jay PS: pics of my refurb stock steering wheel attached. Believe it or not, that is my original steering wheel pad and horn ring. The wheel (and the center logo) is a new hi-q repro from cjpony. I just wrapped it with a wheel-skinz last night (not pictured)

Thank guys. I'm having trouble locating media-blasting people around me, and I don't have the air compressor to do it myself. I have a small soda blaster I could use, but my compressor doesnt have sufficient flow rate at 90psi to support continuous ops. LindenBruce: The paint you mentioned above is a "rattle-can". is that how you painted your interior parts? If so, how many cans to cover the dash? I'm guessing maybe 4 cans and I can do the dash, the door upper sill panels, and the backseat closeout panels. What do you think? Here is the link: http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/interior_paint_spray_lacquer-107611-0.html Thanks for that.

Does anyone out there run 17's all around, with same tires up front and in back? I'd like the option of swapping front/back. If so, what tire size is best for this? I really want to avoid the tire rub up front. I know the big thing now is larger and larger rims, but I think I'm limiting it to 17since I want it to have a largely stock look, while still being custom. Any advice? Jay

So.. From all of the good info above, I am deducing that the texture is "in the metal", and not a surface application to smooth metal? I am about to have mine sand blasted and painted, and I don't want these guys to get into it and destroy the texture... I am also doing the same with the interior metal quarter panels on each wall to the side of the back seat. Same texture there, so should I have the same expectations there? How do I specify "original paint" other than just "semi-gloss black"? Any suggestions on that? Thanks all! Jay PS I was shocked today to go to 2 body shops and neither one of them does ANY sand or media blasting (really??) Hard to believe a paint shop doesn't have a blaster these days!

Ya know, for the wide open spaces, you can hit it with the wire-brush, and the bulk of it is gone in an instant. After that, I use a scotch-brite pad dipped in laquer thinner (of course with big chem proof gloves). If you're sensitive to fumes, this might not be a good idea, but it cuts that stuff amazingly well. Jay

I realize this is an old post, but I'm replying in case someone out there finds this by searching - like I did. My car suddenly started having problems producing spark. Ultimately, I tracked it down to the condenser (inside the dist cap) had gone bad. It happened over a period of a week or so (~15miles driving), from running well, to rough, to really rough, to died and wouldn't start again). Ultimately, just swapping the condenser for a new one solved all the problems. If you have the old-style points and condenser dist, this could be the problem... Jay