stangs-R-me

So a stock Ford 80's radio or aftermarket ?? I've got a stock 1978 AM/FM in mine … kina wished I saved a 80's vintage Ford AM/FM Cassette when we had various cars with them back then as I've still got all my tapes and have had only a home tape deck to play them on since 2004 when I sold my last car to have a tape deck. Doug

1969 Ford Shop Manual shows a magnetic drain plug in the bottom of a 4-Speed Toploader trans case … figures, my 1969 Toploader has NO DRAIN PLUG. So, what is the quickest / easiest way to drain one without a plug ?? Here is my thinking: 1) Remove Shifter & speedo cable 2) Put a jack under belhousing 3) Remove crossmember 4) put some support under trans tailshaft (jack stand or 2nd jack) 5) remove trans bolts and roll trans to let it drain out of speedo cable hole or fill hole (hopefully there is enough room in the tunnel to allow this) Thanks,

I was going to say the same thing. Doug

Glad I was wrong in my thinking that aluminum wheels should normally be hub centric. Learned something new today ... that is always good. Hopefully your installer or someone else close to you has the correct lug centric adapter so they can get you set up properly. Doug

Just googled VWW and all the links I clicked on to their site are down. Likely reason is it appears that Coker Tire bought them out. Also googled the V45 and I see that it is an aluminum wheel similar to an old-school Torq-Thrust D. Can't say I've ever run across an aluminum wheel that is NOT hub centric, so your installer balanced them right which means you either have bad tires, wheels or both. Doug

If they are Steel Magnum 500 wheels, the OE wheels were always LUG centric … not HUB centric as there really is no round center hub to locate on. I'd assume the repros are the same. Doug

If not a Mach 1 as you say and as it appears in the pics, what engine did it come with originally ?? Best it could be is a 351W as it does not have big block shock towers. If not a factory 351 (M or H for 5th digit of VIN ... vs. F=302 / L=250 / T=200), it will NOT have a 9" rear unless someone added it later. I see a woodgrain dash in the trunk ... if it were originally a deluxe interior décor group car with a 351W and some other decent / desirable factory options it might be worth restoring. If a plain jane 302/250/200 definitely not ... at best a donor shell for a Dynacorn re-body maybe. Doug

I just started going though my old Mustang receipts (prior to 1998 when I started using Quicken). I'm slowly putting all these old receipts in a spreadsheet by date and am up to 1988 (bought the car in 1981). Anyway I got this '70 O.E. Hurst Shifter from some guy selling Mustang parts and was curious what I actually paid for it. This was the Summer of 1984 and I went to his house to look at his Mustang parts and a '69 Mach 1 project car he had for sale. Within my receipts I found a note saying ... Shifter FREE ... I don't show buying any other parts from this guy and I know it was NOT the shifter that I went to look at. Maybe because the lever was all banged up or that the threaded end for the knob was snapped off I don't know why he gave it to me for FREE and I certainly did not remember this fact from that day and seeing the note recently certainly did not jog any memory either. Thought I'd share, Doug

My Hurst is stealthy though with stock boot, lever & knob up top just like yours ... got to crawl under the car to see it !!

I've got an O.E. '70 Hurst Shifter on mine plus it is 1-2 up-shift only that I get the occasional grind. Doug

There was a lock-out rod for the 1970 4-Speed too … had to be in reverse (IIRC) to be able to remove the key. I'd guess the base 3-Speed likely had the lock-out rod too, but can't say for sure. Doug

I bought the PennGrade Gear Oil from Summit last fall after reading about this issue either here or elsewhere. Just need to drain out the GL-5 that has been in there since 2011 when I get it out of storage and pour in the GL-4. I had bought a complete rebuild kit from David Kee and had a local guy give mine an overhaul back in 2011. I just got the correct weight gear oil from the local auto parts store not knowing I should be concerned with it being GL4 or GL5 at the time. This Toploader had never been gone through before (short of a fluid change in the mid 80's) so the rebuild made a huge difference. However it does grind going into 2nd every once in a while, so I'm hoping a swap to the correct lube stops or lessens it … vs. having to take trans out to have my guy go through it again. Doug

For some reason I thought my car was built in March 1969, just looked at my data plate today and it's date code is 07B … guessing that would be February 7, 1969 so I missed it either way !! Doug

Hey at least the OE '70 Mach 1 Tips came with a 2-1/8" Inlet and the Scott drake Concourse repro's claim they will fit up to 2-1/4". Interestingly, the Scott Drake tips are Chrome Plated Steel and not 304 stainless like the '67-69 tips. Read a few complaints about the SD tips rusting through the chrome quickly too, so that's not good. There are stock looking Rolled-Lip '70 Tips on ebay made out of 304 SS that would be the way I'd go if I had a '70. Sure they would also fit 2-1/4" and maybe could be even be expanded by an exhaust shop to fit 2-1/2". Doug

Got the parts earlier this week and finished up the project today … turned out really nice with no clearance issues anywhere. Was thinking the rolled lips were going to still be the smallest restriction, but with a little math I found this is NOT TRUE … the 2-1/4" exhaust system tubing I.D. is actually less area than the twin tips. 2-1/4" 0.065" Wall Tubing = 3.528 sq-in area each Twin Tips are 1.895" I.D. = 2.82 sq-in area each x 2 = 5.64 Rolled Slant Cut Oval = 3.019 sq-in area each x 2 =6.038 The 1-3/4" O.D. crimped down tail ends I had before with the OE style tips = 1.986 sq-in area vs. the 3.528 sq-in of 2-1/4" tubing is a 77.6% increase in area which is a huge improvement. Using these tips on a 2-1/2" System would not be a restriction either as this with 0.065" Wall tubing would be 4.41 sq-in area which is also smaller than the twin tips.

CJ's Part Number for the 2-1/2" Tips is: EXT25 … currently $174.99 / pair and in stock in PA Have no idea who makes them, boxes had no name or p/n other than CJP's number. For comparison, pic below is the Scott Drake ones for 2-1/4" which CJP sells for $95.36 / pair. The 2-1/4" inlet is a huge upgrade from 1-3/4" but they step down twice to the same 2nd choke point where it is welded to what appears to be the OE style twin tip junction. No internal shot, so don't know if the divider flap of metal (that is completely removed from the 2-1/2" design) is in there or not.

Bought a pair of these custom 2-1/2" Inlet Tips a few months ago from CJP and was just blown away with how they opened them up inside for maximum flow. Twin tips are externally the same, rolled edge is a little tighter though giving a bit more opening: Stock approx. 1.50" x 2.14" vs. 1.65" x 2.33" oval area each tip. My exhaust is stock late 80's repro (transverse muffler) but the larger 2-1/4" 428 version instead of the 2" that should be behind a 351W. In order to fit the stock tips on the tails that came in this exhaust system I had to shorten them a bit as well as reduce the end dia. to slip into the tiny 1-3/4" inlets on the stock tips … in hindsight, I'm guessing tails were for GT500. This always bugged me but assumed at the time that the tips were the same for all engines so this is how it would have been on a Big Block. Come to find out more recently that 428 Mach 1's & GT's with this 2-1/4" exhaust came with special tails with less restrictive tips welded on the tails instead of the separate tips used on 390 & 351's. These unique tails are now being reproduced by Scott Fuller … but for the concourse crowd … so not cheap. So, since I had already cut & re-welded my tails to fit the stock tips way back when, I just ordered (2) 2-1/4" ID x 2-1/2" OD x 6" long aluminized 16Ga. adapters. I'll cut forward of my current welds and slip these adapters on, adjust to desired length, then weld these new adapters on. Stock tails are 16Ga. aluminized steel too, so I was happy to find these adapters made out of the same gauge tube. Scott Drake makes similar tips for 2-1/4" tails that sell for quite a bit less than these 2-1/2" versions, but from the inlets back look to be similarly restrictive as the stock ones so not worth the cost & effort for minimal improvement. Both tails slipped out of the muffler without any issues, so I'm just waiting for the adapters & 2.5" clamps to arrive from Summit next week. Doug

Wow that sure is a nice and clean FOX … interior looks original and in great shape too considering it's age. My dad had an '80 Hatchback (200 I6 / 4 or 5-Speed) that he bought new and is what I learned how to drive stick in. My brother still has a '79 Hatchback 302 / 4-Speed that he bought in the late 80's. I had a '79 Fairmont Futura that I bought in '89 and basically turned into a roomier Mustang GT w/ '85 5.0L, AOD, 8.8 3.27 T-Lok, Quad-Shocks, 10-hole LX Wheels, SVO Seats & Console, etc. so I was deep into the FOX body world until the mid-90's. The FOX platform was so easy and fun to mod ... kinda miss those simpler times !! Doug

Here is a pdf of the Rostra Circuit & troubleshooting page … no switch detail in the drawing, just an explanation how to test /troubleshoot the switch at the bottom of the page stating both sides are powered when switched to "inflate". I also scribbled up a quick sketch of how I would wire up a std. DPDT switch. Thanks DANNO on finding a Diode that will work … that route looks good and easy too. Thanks, Doug Rostra Lumbar Circuit & T-S.pdf

Ground Wire runs to pump motor & dump valve. Power Wire runs thru 5A Fuse then to switch Two wires from switch go to positive motor & dump valve Switch is a momentary 3-way switch, however it powers BOTH the pump motor & dump valve wires when you want to ADD air to bladder then just the dump valve when you want to remove air from the bladder. I have normal 3-way SPDT momentary switches in there now, but being normal they only power either the pump or the dump valve. If you power just the pump, it runs but you get "0" air out of the hose. As I said in my 1st post, how this actually works has me sort of baffled. I'm a hydraulic/pneumatics guy and to me this should be a simple energize the pump to inflate and energize the dump valve to deflate. My curiosity got the best of me so I pulled the pump assy. out of the padded pouch it comes in to see if that helped me make sense of it. Pump does run through the dump valve, so maybe instead of being a single check in the dump valve to hold air in the bladder (which would allow the pump to pump air through it while de-energized) it is some sort of double check in this valve which would require it to be energized with the pump. And being in series with the pump, it actually bleeds bladder down backwards through pump when just the dump solenoid is energized. Pic of pump / dump valve assy:

This past Spring & Fall, I rebuilt my Mach 1 Seats using new foam, springs, burlap, and felt. At the same time, I added Rostra Rear Mount Power Lumbar kits (250-1453). These kits come with 3-way momentary switches to pump up the lumbar bag and deflate it. Normally you would mount these switches in the side plastic trim of a modern car seat … something absent from a classic Mustang Seat. Not being able to think up a simple solution to this I instead modified the switch harness extending it to above the radio to use the two empty switch spots there and used two standard SPDT momentary 3-way toggle switches for a 1/2" hole. Problem is, the Rostra Lumbar switches are not normal ON OFF ON, instead the "inflate" direction energizes both the pump and the dump valve and the "deflate" direction energizes only the dump valve. So, since my std. switches only energize one or the other, the pump will run but not inflate the lumbar bag. Even though I can't wrap my head around HOW this Rostra circuit can possibly work this way, I've figured out how to duplicate the Rostra Switch circuit using DPDT switches and two jumper wires per switch instead of the SPDT that I have in there now. Question for you electrical gurus … I was also wondering if I could just add a Diode of some sort between the two switch terminals that would allow current in the one direction but not the other. The circuit uses a 5 AMP fuse, so I'd guess the Diode would need to be good for 5A. I would think you could even add this Diode at the pump which would not require me to remove the whole dash pad, etc. again to get to my switches. If this will indeed work, can someone recommend a part number of what I need to order ?? I did write-up with lots of pics on my seat rebuild / lumbar install … see attachment. Thanks, Doug Rebuilding 69-70 Mach 1 Front Seats.pdf

I'm assuming you mean centering the distribution block piston. Best way is with it out of the car on the bench. On the '68-69 style you can push it from either end to center it with a punch or nail. On the '70-up style with access on one end only you can push from the one end, but would need to tap it on a bench top to get it to go the other way. If distribution block is new or newer, then the above instructions are good unless piston is difficult to move in the bore (see below). If it is an old block, it should be disassembled, cleaned, and re-assembled with NEW seals ... also making sure piston moves freely in the bore before re-installing. Doug

My set up is using the '68-69 style (lower pic) and instead of the round prop-valve I'm using a Ford replacement that looks like this ... https://www.ebay.com/itm/68-70-Ford-Full-Size-Factory-Disc-Brake-Rear-Proportioning-Hold-Off-Valve/190782903505?fits=Make%3AFord&hash=item2c6b8c14d1%3Ag%3AW0wAAOSwMXdaoY-p%3Asc%3AShippingMethodStandard!54241!US!-1&_pgn=2&_sacat=0&_nkw=ford+brake+proportioning+valve&_from=R40&rt=nc … along with a K/H (Ford Motorsport M-2328-A) adjustable one "in series" with the fixed one. If you want to do a fixed & adjustable in series like I did, it is probably better to do it with the '69 style dist. block. You could do it with the '70 style block, however only the built-in prop-valve will be bypassed if your front brakes fail and the piston shifts forward. Where with the '69 style block, both prop-valves are bypassed with a front brake failure. Not the best picture (should have snapped a pic while the master & booster were still out of the car) but here's a pic of my set up ...K/H on left and fixed one on right below the clutch pedal rod:

1969 power disc brake cars had a separate rear proportioning valve and 1970 had it integral to the distribution block. If you do not have one in your system, that is indeed your problem. I'd get an adjustable one. I converted my car to PDB in the mid 80's using disc brake assy's from a '70 Mustang and brake booster / distribution block & proportioning valve assy. came out of a '69 Mustang. Rears are the big 2.5x10" station wagon drums that Shelby put on '65 GT350's. I also had lots of problems with the rears locking up. I then swapped out the stock prop-valve with an adjustable Kelsey/Hayes and it did not matter where I had the prop-valve adjusted they would still lock up. I finally fixed the problem in 2011. The original seals on the piston in the distribution block were shot and the one that divided the two sides of the proportioning valve was split, so the prop-valve basically did nothing. Got the repair (seal) kit for the distribution block from Muscle Car Research (since 2011, the complete distribution block with the proportioning valve became available as a reproduction so this is another option). I can now adjust the prop-valve for perfect brake balance. In my rework, I put a NOS 70's vintage Ford replacement proportioning valve in series with the adjustable one (which was probably overkill), but I wanted to make sure that I got the job done and since I can adjust the K/H to make the rears want to lock up, it certainly is not too much. Doug

WOW … never seen this !! Got to be the closest to stock appearing option I've seen yet, nice find. As you said you need to ask for every option, wonder if you could get the blueish tinted background (instead of black) that deluxe dash clusters had to make it appear even more stock with the woodgrain. Minor thing that only a '69-70 Mustang nut would notice. Even the font used on the speedo & tach looks very similar to what was used on a standard black dash cluster. Doug