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Her69fastback

Ignition kill switch with key

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I’m wanting to put a kill switch with a key on the stang to make it harder to steal. I have looked it up & not finding a lot with a key. I want to stay away from a toggle switch if I can. The car has the mechanical fuel pump on it. I don’t want to put a electric fuel pump on it. Had a car in high school that had a electric fuel pump on it on a toggle switch. Didn’t turn it on & car ran for about two blocks before it died. What’s everyone using 

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I just found something on that. What I read was to slice into the - side of the coil. Run wires to a toggle switch.  At will crank put won’t start because it’s not firing. Any suggestions on what kind of toggle switch would be best for this? 

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I have an electric fuel shutoff valve that is not easily accessible. This is hooked to my GPS tracker and can be controlled through my IPhone. Works pretty well. The system give me a phone an alert if the ignition is turned on or battery disconnected. Gives me peace of mind especially when at work. I also have a 9mm but in Aus we can't carry them :).

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I found two things work really well. 

1. Remove steering wheel and take it inside with you whenever you park.  Hold it up in front of you and quickly turn it to get people out of the way. 

2. Remove gas tank every time you park and carry it with you.  The car will run for a short time, but will stall within walking distance. 

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I interrupt thenpower to the MSD box with a switch

 

something I see more people doing is using keyfob that trips a seleniod, no switches to see or find. The solenoid can be fully hidden somwont even show on a full resto car.

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23 hours ago, Midlife said:

I found two things work really well. 

1. Remove steering wheel and take it inside with you whenever you park.  Hold it up in front of you and quickly turn it to get people out of the way. 

2. Remove gas tank every time you park and carry it with you.  The car will run for a short time, but will stall within walking distance. 

It's nice to see the old Midlife back at it. 

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Here is what I believe the easiest way to disable the car. You can use any kind of switch you like- toggle, key, etc. What sort of coil do you have? I ask because the switch has to have a high enough amp rating to run the coil. The car will crank but not start.The disadvantage of this circuit is that if the ignition switch is left on by the thief, then the coil is left on, and could over heat, but I've been using this system on various cars since the 60s with no problem. It works by shorting the points. If the points don't open and close, then the coil doesn't work- it must be pulsing DC to create a continuing spark.

KILL SWITCH (3).pdf

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On 3/13/2019 at 10:32 PM, Rsanter said:

something I see more people doing is using keyfob that trips a seleniod, no switches to see or find. The solenoid can be fully hidden somwont even show on a full resto car.

I guess you could use an aftermarket door lock system for under $40 to do the switching. This shows how a factory system (and presumably an aftermarket system also) is easily hacked: 

 

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Thanks for all the help. Sorry for the late reply. Been getting some overtime at work. I was looking at using ether a 30amp or a 50amp toggling switch what would you recommend? Is there a good brand of toggle switch’s  you might recommend? 

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21 minutes ago, Her69fastback said:

Thanks for all the help. Sorry for the late reply. Been getting some overtime at work. I was looking at using ether a 30amp or a 50amp toggling switch what would you recommend? Is there a good brand of toggle switch’s  you might recommend? 

Go to your local auto parts store- Auto Zone, Advance or the like. 30-50 amps is way more than you need. It will be bigger and bulkier and more difficult to hide. 15-20 amps is adequate as the ignition coil you are disabling will probably be below the 9A range. All you need is SPST (two terminals). More terminals are ok but again take up more space and you will only use two.

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I have my system that works from a pushbutton on a gas valve.  It would also work on the ignition disconnect ideas. Use a relay to carry the current so no big switch is needed.  Then every time the car is started, you need to push the hidden button to  allow it to run.  I can explain more, if needed.   There are a lot of great suggestions already.

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10 hours ago, danno said:

I have my system that works from a pushbutton on a gas valve.  It would also work on the ignition disconnect ideas. Use a relay to carry the current so no big switch is needed.  Then every time the car is started, you need to push the hidden button to  allow it to run.  I can explain more, if needed.   There are a lot of great suggestions already.

That sounds interesting- what sort of gas valve?

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I raced in SCCA for 24 years, where electrical cutoff switches were required.  See picture.  I used one like this because it has a removable 'key' so it not only disables the entire electrical system (prevents draining the battery if the car sits for a long time), but you can take the key with you to prevent theft.

Battery Cutoff Switch.JPG

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I am not sure where I bought the gas valve, I have been using it for at least 20 years.  Installed where the gas line goes through the frame, so it would be very hard to find.  Push the button one way and it turns the gas on. Push it the other way and it shuts the gas off.  I also have an override switch to shut the system off if I take the car in to a garage.  With my system, it is always armed.  I need to push the button every time I start the car, or within about 3 minutes after it is started.  It takes about 3 minutes to use the gas in the carb. 

If I ever get carjacked, I touch the button as I leave the car, and the thief has about 3 minutes to get away, so I am a safe distance away when the car runs out of gas.  I can PM you with the details of the system and show photos.  

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1 hour ago, danno said:

I am not sure where I bought the gas valve, I have been using it for at least 20 years.  Installed where the gas line goes through the frame, so it would be very hard to find.  Push the button one way and it turns the gas on. Push it the other way and it shuts the gas off.  I also have an override switch to shut the system off if I take the car in to a garage.  With my system, it is always armed.  I need to push the button every time I start the car, or within about 3 minutes after it is started.  It takes about 3 minutes to use the gas in the carb. 

If I ever get carjacked, I touch the button as I leave the car, and the thief has about 3 minutes to get away, so I am a safe distance away when the car runs out of gas.  I can PM you with the details of the system and show photos.  

Yeah I get it, the switch is a push on, push off switch that operates a valve. Simple and works as long as they don't know where the switch is located. Of course an ignition kill switch doesn't work if they know where it is either. I disable the fuel, the ignition, and lock the transmission in park, but they can still get it with a tow truck.

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4 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

Yeah I get it, the switch is a push on, push off switch that operates a valve. Simple and works as long as they don't know where the switch is located. Of course an ignition kill switch doesn't work if they know where it is either. I disable the fuel, the ignition, and lock the transmission in park, but they can still get it with a tow truck.

You are right, nothing can stop a tow truck.  Locking the tranny in park is also a great defeat feature.  How do you do that?  Do you have a 1970 or later?  Maybe you have a solenoid on the shifter? 

 

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13 hours ago, danno said:

You are right, nothing can stop a tow truck.  Locking the tranny in park is also a great defeat feature.  How do you do that?  Do you have a 1970 or later?  Maybe you have a solenoid on the shifter? 

 

Its a 69 Mach1 with an FMX. I mounted a switch on the shifter linkage to operate when the button is pushed to change gears. That goes though the kill switch (so it can be disabled) and (you guessed it) to a solenoid that locks it in park. If the kill switch is open the solenoid isn't energized and it can't be moved out of park. It looks and operates as if its stock. You can hear a little click when you press the shift button. I imagine it could be done to most automatic linkages. I made the modification long ago before digital cameras so sorry, there are no pictures, but as part of the documentation process I'll definitely take pictures when I tear her down for restoration.

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Take a look at mid 70's Corvette. They had a keyed switch in the left front fender for the alarm system. Drill a hole in your car somewhere then mount, wire and go!

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