MikeStang

Man find you a 4R70W someone has used for under a grand, call Baumans and order a controller for 600 and get a crossmember kit from Joe Persad for like 300 then shorten or have a new alum driveshaft built for 100-400, if u wanna use B&M shifter add 60 bucks for their control lever kit, add a TPS To your holley carb and away you go for about $2000 give or take a few hondos.. Bone stock a 4R will take 400 hp, add jbody mod and will take 500 or more. My lightly built 4R has been taking all my 408 can dish out

Yeah its a pretty big tire but i have a narrow rear end and aftermarket rims and the car kinda swallows the 275/40/18s I currently have on it.. Guy at tire shop said they will mount them and if I dont like them we can try something else or put my old ones back on. Hey at least maybe it will raise the ass end of the car up a bit Haha

Well I need new rear tires anyhow and found some 275/55/18 Michellins Locally at NTB for 165 each which imho is a great deal so im gonna have some more sidewall now to help out, Shocks will be next i think if tires dont help

And im not sure on the spring rate barnett, i just called John at Opentracker and told him I wanted 4.5 leaf mid eye springs for street performance

Barnett like I said my best friend runs a 285/35/17 and his ride is MUCH more pleasant than mine is but i know a larger sidewall will help some. Buckeye, I was wondering about the shock length also..there is about 1.5"-2" of compression left in the shocks if I recall from last time i looked which dont seem like enough to me personally but i was told that with the angle in which tgey are mounted that should be enough...Thoughts?

Good evening Gents. Have a few questions with regard to ride quality with relation to rear leafs, shocks, tire selection and ride height. My car had reverse eye leafs and was to low and rode a lil to rough for my taste so i added 1" longer shackles and saw no real height increase. I decided to swap to a 4.5 leaf mid eye spring to raise it more and it helped to the tune of right at an inch, however the ride is still bone jaring on these Louisiana roads. I currently have 275/40/18 Rear tires, Rancho adjustable rear shocks set to soft, cal tracs and my axle is about 2" from the frame bumpers. I know the 40 series sidewalls aint helping but the only other size 275 i can get is either a 55 or 60 and not sure if a 60 will fit. Consequently my best friends car is set up identical to mine but his ride height isnt as low, he has Koni rear shocks and runs a 285/35/17 and his car rides much smoother than mine. Literally my car feels like a damn log truck and its beating me and the car to pieces in short order... Any suggestions? Cal tracs have been adjusted every which way and dont affect ride quality

I use a cheap auto zone controller with temp probe in the intake, and have 2 relays wired that actually take the load of the fans coming on. The sensor reads that its time to come on and tells the relays and the relays switch powa on and voila fans blow at high speed...been working like a charm for 3 years now.

I wanna know where you got the Louvers at, I may need a set.

Well looks like I would have to raise my car up about an inch to squeeze these new tires under the ass end, so putting them up for sale. Brand new PAIR of Mickey Thompson Street ET's in a 295/65/15 size. Looking to get what I paid for them which was $300. I don't mind shipping but you pay freight. I am located in Walker Louisiana. Msg me here or at 225-241-3278 Pics to follow when I get home

Okay I picked up a pair of brand new MT Street Ets in a 295/65/15 size for 300 and now i need a set of rear wheels. The car currently runs 275/40/18s in the back and has a 65-66 Model 9" width rear end so i got a lil more room. My question is what vehicles and yr models carry a 15" rim that will work so far as Back spacing and offset...just a junk factory set is all i want..

I have always wondered why someone doesn't make a sub frame connector that cradles the front frame rails and runs all the way up to the torque boxes and ties in like I did the connectors that I built for my 66.. "Pics posted somewhere on here" I built my SFC for the 66 out of 3x3 Square tube and they are pretty damn sturdy but I knew they were major overkill but since I had the material left over from the rotisserie build why let it go to waste :) I didn't know the rear divider couldn't go in if you had a fold down rear seat... looks like I wont be running a divider once I install my fold down LOL. I saw where the guy installed the M2 cross-member like I have but I wonder if it would help the torsional flex out if you were to cut some stiffener plates the same shape as frame rails and weld them to the sides of the rails on both sides and tie them into the cross-member some 1/8" or so would be easy to cut out and add on and I happen to have a 1/2 sheet left over that is doubling as a parts bench LOL.

I have driven mustangs without sub frame connectors and with them...the ones with them always feel tighter in handling, they will seem to hold the corners better and the ride is firmed up. Not to mention if you are hooking up any at all without them your door to fender gaps will get larger and larger as time goes by. I liked the back yard testing the guy did, it sheds some light on things and also put some thoughts in my mind in terms of upgrades. They mentioned something about having another structure brace above or below the frame rails adding strength, So I was thinking about possibly a weld in bar under the dash tying into the front Torque boxes and going from one box to the other while staying completely inder the dash near the cowl area....Kinda like a Shelby roll bar under the dash....Think there would be room for it. I will be installing a rear seat divider for sure

Have done this a few times tho buckeye LOL...And Average fuel economy is generally figured with normal speeds and no flogging on it LOL..

Tinman Here as well. Just gotta cut the ends of the front frame rails open and drill a few holes into the side for welds. But they WORK

Yeah I thought the same thing Buckeye. I was running a 3.25 Gear then swapped to a 3.73. The way I figured it was pretty simple, I filled the tank up till it was about as full as it would go, then drove from Baton Rouge to Houston and filled up when I reached my destination, had the GPS logged mileage, and knew how many gallons it took to fill it back up...Yeah its not a super scientific method but seemed to get me pretty damn close... It was hard keeping my foot out of it for that long drive, and I never exceeded 70 or so.

Hey RCE Was wondering when I would see ya on here again LOL...Good to know you got that motor up and going. to answer your 4R70W question...Yes all you really need is the Bauman controller and a 4R70W that is in good working order, along with a flexplate that is the correct balance for your motor. There are a few Caveats tho... If I recall the bauman controller requires that the transmission have High Impedance Solenoids in the pan, this can be checked by popping off the pan and looking or getting a trans from a year model known to have the high impedance solenoids... but they can be had for cheap from the Ford Dealer and are easy to swap out. So heres the list of what ya really need. 1. Transmission with converter 2. Bauman Controller with their complete harness 3. Correct Flex-Plate 4. Transmission Cross Member to fit 4R70W...can be modified stock unit or one from Joe Persad 5. Possibly need a new driveshaft or may need your shortened or the Yolk changed to a 4R70w Big yolk depensing on the year 4R70 you get. That pretty much covers it bud...Sounds like a lot but it isn't. I recently picked up a sweet deal off of my little mustang sites on facebook, one guy had a complete Bauman controller with harness set up that I got for $400.00 and it was their latest controller, then saw another guy whose mom ran her car hot and burnt the motor up so she gave him the car and he was parting it, and she had just had the transmission replaced by a reputable shop in Baton Rouge, when it showed up at my house and we pulled it out of the back of his truck you could tell it was fresh and even came with a brand spanking new converter and flexplate LMAO.. Paid $150.00 for that... So right now I got $550.00 in the setup Im going to put into my 66... Just keep your eyes open the stuff pops up all the time.... You can use a 4R70 that comes from behind a V6 also btw, don't have to be a V8 donor, long as the bell housing is the same it will work, but you just have to remember they are not all created equal and some are better than others

have 84 Fiero seats in mine

Johns LCA's that I have gotten in the past have all been Moog, and we have got a few sets from him

So how did you figure out the aprons were low? did you bolt the fender on and have a big ass gap? I like how your just split the apron instead of cutting it loose completely and replacing it haha

LOL I built it with foot to the floor at the top of my list HaHA

Haha That's cool...So you can see from those pics what kind of Rolling stock we were traveling along with on that run. My GF made me keep it under 100 and I had my son with me so I wasn't really wanting to get to crazy buy my buddy who was with me in his 69 with pretty much same motor and a 5 speed did play with some of the high dollar cars on the way. We found out that our old school junk could hang with the stock Ferraris and Lambos pretty easily from 30 mph up to about 130 or so then they would start putting distance on him HaHa.. I got a few pics with my car next to the ford GT which I thought was cool... Lot of cool guys in the Race Armada crew and most of them are totally cool with you ogling their cars. My son got to sit in several of his top dream cars LOL. Wish I could have gotten to do this kind of stuff when I was a kid :) Im kicking ass at this Dad thing HAHA

Ill list out my build below. My shit gets beat on every time my ass hits the seat, and like you I wanted as much HP as I could get and still be street friendly in terms of Idle because I run an automatic trans with a tight converter along with AC... My specifications were Pump gas friendly, Decent idle in drive with AC on, Max Hp I could get with off the shelf parts and I wanted a large smooth HP/torque curve...... We get 87, 91, 93 octane here in Louisiana and its mostly all been cut with 10% or more ethanol as stated at the pump.... My car runs fine on 91 &93 altho I usually stick to 93. Anyhow here is how I am set up. Trans is a built 4R70W with 2800 stall controlled by a Bauman controller, rear end is a 9" with 3.73 Trac Loc and Caltracs, I have Factory Auto Air for Heating and Cooling and don't us a kick up solenoid to control Idle with the ac on, Also have Power steering as well. Motor is as follows. 408 Cubes, Block is from a 95 Ford Lightning so it was a factory roller block. Short Block Consists of Eagle Forged Crank, I-Beam Forged Rods, Ross Pistons, and a Main Girdle with ARP Studs. Heads are Box Stock AFR 205's (these are the older Nitrous Ported version which are a CNC version if I recall, they are now called outlaw heads I think. I have flow sheets from the heads if you wanna see Real flow numbers off a Super Flow bench. The springs were changed to match the Comp Hyd Roller Cam that we had Comp Grind as well. Valves are stock untouched from AFR. The Camshaft is a Comp Custom Hyd Roller grind and the specs are 228/236@50 with 563/571 Lift and ground on a 113 LSA. I run the Stock Style Hyd Roller lifters for Ford Motorsports along with the stock style retainer and dog bones.. both of which were bought new so I did not use the old spider and dog bones from the motor when I got it. The intake is an Edelbrock Vic Jr unported but it matched the AFR heads to a T somehow...Carb is an 850 Holley Dbl pumper W/Manual secondaries. Headers are FRP stepped from 1-3/4" to 1-7/8" into a 3" collector if I recall. We dynode the motor with an HP 950 Carb and 1-7/8 or 2" primary headers on 93 octane pump gas and it responded to the tune of 550.9hp on motor and 659hp on a 125 shot of gas....Torque was over 500lbft at like 4000 RPM's I think? I would have to pull dyno sheets to verify that tho. All and all I could not ask for a better street friendly pavement pounder that I would drive anywhere. I have driven the car to and from Cruising the Coast 3 years running, did some of the Hot Rod power tour and recently ran a poker run from Houston to Lake Charles LA with some high end exotics and this motor has been problem free except for the time I had converter issues and burnt the thrust bearing out, but that was MY fault. Oh I get an average of 20 mpg with the 850 carb and OD transmission Btw LOL. I have videos of the Idle in park and in drive if you wanna see them... it has become a little to mellow for me and I am wanting to possibly do a cam swap to something more aggressive sounding LOL... It idles right at 650 RPM's in gear with the AC on and has a nice smooth lope to it hehe

You got that hood mounted yet Prayers?

Call John at Opentrackerracing.com and order a set of his Street Lower Roller Control Arms... he will tell you all about them

Guys name is Stephen Cruise, hes on Facebook and they call him (CrazyAssCameraMan) He was riding shotgun in either an EVO or some lil import. The doors are all closed and he is tied off Inside somehow and he just leans out the pass side window and hangs down close to the road and snaps away... They do it A LOT and his driver is pretty good about maintaining speed and keeping him safe so he can snap away...My GF nearly shit her pants when she saw him hanging out the window LOL