danno

The wires to the moon shaped plug that connects to the steering column are the same for tach and non tach cars. For that matter, they are probably the same for all 69 Mustangs. 1970 had the switch on the column so that was a different animal. On the inner side of that connector, you should have only the center 3 pins used: > 2 wires connecting to the second one in, both Green/white, for the front Left turn signals and instrument panel blinker indicators > 2 wires connecting to the third one, both white/blue, for connecting to the front right and instru panel blinker > a green wire that goes to the stop lamp switch. The reason your brake lights do not work is because the green wire is disconnected from the half moon connector. It should go the second one in on the inner circle that probably has nothing connected to it. The other 2 connectors on the inner circle should have 2 wires connected to each of them, both the same color. None of this could explain why your gauges are not working. What it seems like is someone found a tach instrument panel and installed it in a car that originally did not have one. The connector on the back of the instru panel is completely different between the 2 instru panels. That is why the gauges do not work and also why they cut the wires so the turn signals would work partially. You need to look at the colors of the wires on the connector that goes to the connector for the instrument panel. A non-tach car has red, yellow, green/black, white/red, white/blue, blue/red, and violet on one side, and green/white, nothing, red/white, yellow/white, violet, red/yellow, and black. If your connector has these colors, you are trying to make a tach instru cluster work in a non tack car. This has a whole bunch of problems that will need to be worked on. So find out what the colors are on the connector.

It is critical to know if your temperature gauge is working. If that works, then the instrument cluster has proper voltage in, is grounded ok, and the constant voltage (CV) unit is working ok. Is your temperature gauge working ok?

I have a tach dash and schematic, but it is at home. If someone else answers first, great. If not, I will let you know later.

I had a similar problem a few years ago, and it was the coil. grab a spare spark plug and hook it up when the engine is running so you can look at it and see how bright the spark is during normal running. The next time is stops, hook up the spare spark plug and see if it sparks and how bright it is. In my car, as long as the oil was cool, it was alright. After it heated up, it stopped working. if you rule out sparks, your fuel pump could be weak. You are running the engine based on fuel in the float bowl maybe? Disconnect the fuel filter and turn the engine over for 1 second to check fuel flow. Put some absorbing rags in the area and do not have the coild connected when you do this.

It sounds like you have a great power system, but the power really has nothing direct to do with the brakes. You never need aa that power to stop the car. I can understand wanting to stop a bit quicker, just in case, though. Keep in mind that if factory brakes will lock up the front wheels, bigger discs with bigger pads will not do much more than lock up the wheels maybe 1/10 second sooner. If the factory brakes are not working at 100%, go for it! Don't get me wrong, I am all for improvements. But sometimes we oversee the obvious.

I think I have one also if chillinininh cant do it.

Like I mentioned, I have Randalls and it works for me. Maybe there are better systems, it is hard for me to compare. I am using the factory pump on it and have never had any of the problems mentioned. If you need any assistance on getting your system figured out, maybe I can help? 55Mach1, you should be able to get it working. Check with the Chevy dealers for parts.

The bracket I made is a couple pieces of angle iron welded together, and the nut welded in so you do not need to have a wrench on the nut when you are fastening it in. It is simple if you have steel and a welder, otherwise will take some help. The system the kits use from CJ are not quite as elaborate as mine, and so maybe a simpler system would work for you?

I assumed he has double checked them. Yes, that could definately be a source of the problem. How would you check them, just look at them while someone turns the wheels?

Maybe if the rack was fixed, it would not be that bad? I have wide tires too, and mine is not that bad. It is 100 times better than the old factory system. Someone else makes a power rack system and another place has a manual rack to adapt to a Mustang, a little searching and they should show up. But maybe if yours were fixed, it would be ok? I know there are other Randalls rack people on this and other forums, ask the opinion of others.

As I mentioned on another conversation, he uses the 88 to 93 Chevy rack. Do a search on one of those cars and see what it says. There could be some adjustment, but I am not aware of it. I have Randalls and it works fine, so either it was not installed correctly or it is worn excessively. You should not hear that groaning, maybe try disconnecting one tie rod so it is only steering one wheel at a time and see if it groans. Another thing to try is to check for play in the steering column and linkage. Put a vice grip on the pinion linkage so it will not move, and see how much you can turn the wheel. This rack and pinion does not have as much feedback as the factory system had, which means it will not return to straight ahead on it's own after a turn. You have to help it a bit. A good alignment shop should know what could be going on. Your average shop would not have a clue. Tell them is is from a Chevy and maybe they would have an answer.

the overall photo. You can see the shoulder harness attaches by my conv top system. You could use the roof support that is already probably in place. This system is just another way of going about it. I know of a 85 LTD with one of them in it, but it is red so I am not interested. You might be able to find one in your area.

This is what I have. Some of the pictures might not be the best, but it kind of shows how it works. I think the first one is the bracket I made to attach the retractor to the floor. One of the other photos show the retractor attached to it right inside the door and all the way back against the rear inner interior covering. I will add another post with the overall photo.

Consider putting in a AOD tranny. It is a very common and desirable change. You can get them cheap, and the total cost will be half of what you might spend to rebuild yours. Mine cost a total of about $400, and I put it in myself.

Sven, I am not sure I understand. From what I understand, all the kits are rear and the replacements are as well. All old Mustangs have them in the rear, as did the Cavalier and others. I think newer Mustangs have the tie rod in the front.

The factory systems are available on fleabay, perhaps that is the way to go? At least for the interior things. Use some kit parts for an R134 system under the hood. The factory compressors were heavy and a huge load on the engine. Aftermarket systems offered in the kits are better for cooling from what I understand. But the factory look inside is hard to beat, especially if yours is fully restored to a high level.

By the way, I am considering trying to put in a efi V6 from a 92 tbird in mine. I have never heard if it can be done, but I know of no reason why it cannot. I drive my car a lot and my 302 gets around 13mpg. The 3.8L v6 will get almost twice that.

I looked into this on my 302, and came to the conclusion that the factory carb was hard to beat on the factory block. EFI conversions do not really add much, if anything, to either power or mpg. You have to change to a completely different motor to get the real advantages.

Now we all know a bit more. Jim, time for either a trip to a boneyard or a Chevy dealer.

Jim, I understand what you are going through. But someone had to do all the legwork to find out that the Chevy system would work in a Mustang. Actually, I have had my doubts, because the Chevy system was for a very small, light car. Some of the Mustangs and your Cougar have probably twice the front end weight of a 93 Chevy. By the way, there is a difference in between a 93 and 94 Chevy system. I think you want the 93. I have Randalls and was thinking of buying a backup system this summer as a spare. The odds are that in 10 years the rack for a 93 Chevy will be obsolete. But if you want to spend the time, you could get a lot of systems to work on your car. It is just that Randall did the groundwork. I have had some good conversations and some bad with him when I tried to get spare parts. He ended up giving me the parts I needed at no cost. He does not realize rule #1. You gotta keep the customer satisfied, even if they did not purchase today from you. Tomorrow they will. Good luck finding the parts. Try a Chevy dealer or a boneyard. If you need my assistance, I can help maybe.

The belts mentioned from Powershift are almost exactly like those from a 85 LTD. I mounted mine to a bracket on the floor so the thing it winds up on is not hidden. Same idea, though.

Wow, lots of suggestions! One very simple fix for most teenagers to make the car safer is a limit on how far he can press the gas pedal! He doesn't need to go 80mph or accelerate like at a dragstrip. I know, I was 16 once and should have had it done to me. Put some sort of mechanical limiter under the dash where he can't find it. There are a lot of suggestions that are very worthwhile, others maybe not. The halogen headlights and changing to a relay harness on them is a great idea. LED lights for others is kind of a neat feature, but a waste of money if you are looking to improve safety. Likewise for rear disc brakes; not worth the cost. I put in seat belts from a 85 Ford LTD, work perfect if you want to do the boneyard thing. It is a 3 point antomatic system that bolts right up to what you have now. I can include photos if you want. Both sides for my car cost $25.

Check at a Chevy parts dealer. I think the rack is the same one that is used on a 93 Cavaliar. Have them show you a picture to confirm, and maybe get the fittings or tubes you need from them. Or try NAPA with the fittings for a 93 Chevy Cavaliar?

Other things to consider would be things like changing to a AOD tranny as long as you are at it, and the fuel pump. The fuel pump needs to be done if you go with EFI, not with a carb. I have read mixed things about adding efi to your existing 302. Generally it provides no real advantage. Then there is the height issue as mentioned with putting a 351 efi motor under the hood.

Maybe temporarily wire on some exhaust tail pipe extensions. The ends of the exhaust might not be in the airflow out the back they could be in teh airflow that gets sucked back forward. It does happen. Take an old tin can and use one of those hose clamps like on radiator hoses to extend the pipe another 6 inches. A simple test worth a try...