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Which brake booster is right for me?

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No, the pushrod has plenty of adjustment, a few twist back and forth and she was dialed in. More of the pain came from bench bleeding, difficult to bench bleed and install w/fluid in as you can see from the paint removal at the frame rail. Thought I had enough plastic and towels but the dang fluid ran down and starting eating the paint. Make sure you wash all the area after connections are made.

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14 hours ago, 69Stanger408 said:

I went with manual Wilwood w/proportioning valve as my motor will lack vacuum. Best price I found was Amazon. I made the backer plate out of aluminum. No issues, worked well.

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Is your stang driving? How does the braking feel?

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I have a Dewey rebuilt Midland booster, a pretty mild Comp Cams XE268 cam which I can only get 15 bars of vacuum which provides just 950 lbs of pressure at the calipers, which pretty much sucks for braking. I've gathered the parts and one of my next projects is to switch to manual brakes. Ymmv.

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6 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

I just went through this on my '70, you can check my build thread, but here is what the final result looks like:

 

IMG_3671.jpg

That a very nice set up, have you tested your booster yet? I may look into getting a similar setup.

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I bled the brakes last week and everything seems to be fine.  I have not tested the unit under vacuum, as my engine is not installed.  But, there are literally millions of these dual diaphragm boosters out there.  If you are running a manual transmission, with a traditional "Z" bar linkage, you need to use this set up.  The single diaphragm booster is larger in diameter (but not as deep) and will interfere with your clutch linkage.  If you are running an automatic, or a cable/hydraulic clutch, you can use the larger single booster.

Now, that begs the question as to why did I use this one, as I am running an automatic.  The dual diaphragm booster has a little more stopping power, and with my low vacuum situation due to my cam, I need that.

I got mine from Master Power Brakes, but you can get them anywhere.  They are a local company for me, so I went right to the manufacturing facility.   I really liked their bracket and proportioning valve assembly, as it mounts underneath, and not on the drivers side inner fender.   

Hope that answers the questions.  IM me or post if you have any  more.

good luck...!

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4 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

I bled the brakes last week and everything seems to be fine.  I have not tested the unit under vacuum, as my engine is not installed.  But, there are literally millions of these dual diaphragm boosters out there.  If you are running a manual transmission, with a traditional "Z" bar linkage, you need to use this set up.  The single diaphragm booster is larger in diameter (but not as deep) and will interfere with your clutch linkage.  If you are running an automatic, or a cable/hydraulic clutch, you can use the larger single booster.

Now, that begs the question as to why did I use this one, as I am running an automatic.  The dual diaphragm booster has a little more stopping power, and with my low vacuum situation due to my cam, I need that.

I got mine from Master Power Brakes, but you can get them anywhere.  They are a local company for me, so I went right to the manufacturing facility.   I really liked their bracket and proportioning valve assembly, as it mounts underneath, and not on the drivers side inner fender.   

Hope that answers the questions.  IM me or post if you have any  more.

good luck...!

Good info, you can test your booster with either a vacuum pump or position another running car next to the Mustang and run a vacuum hose, but I'm sure it ok. I just get paranoid with these things especially if i bought something from another country.

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There are a lot of boosters out there.   I have 2 original Bendix boosters.  Not sure how much to ship to your side of the world, but you can rebuild them.  I don't need them.   IM me if you are interested.

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1 hour ago, Vicfreg said:

There are a lot of boosters out there.   I have 2 original Bendix boosters.  Not sure how much to ship to your side of the world, but you can rebuild them.  I don't need them.   IM me if you are interested.

Thanks Vic, I did look into the bendix boosters at one stage, unfortunately there are no rebuild kits available for them only the midland, so may just go generic as you have. Unfortunately here in Aus. If you change any component from original, you need to have an engineer involved, so when I restore the 69, I will try to keep the car as original as possible.

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I wanted a willwood MC on my car but found out it is a bit longer and could not be made to fit with the stock booster.

i went with the TuffStuff booster for the mustang. Turns out it is a boss429 booster just not a concourse version.

fits perfect, works great. Was less expensive than a stock rebuild. And gives more room in that area to work around.

overall very happy

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Can't tell you which setup works good but I can tell you what won't work well. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-68-69-70-Mustang-Power-brake-booster-master-cylinder-valve-disc-disc-03383/331735871979?fits=Year%3A1969|Model%3AMustang&hash=item4d3cffb1eb:g:jooAAOxyirJSEmhK&vxp=mtr

I put this on my 69 and it has a very hard petal, I honestly don't think I could lock it up with both feet.  Vintage anti lock brakes LOL

My friend put one on his 69 as well, the only difference is he has disc/drums and I have disc/disc. He has the same issue.

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On 4/14/2018 at 6:59 PM, Rsanter said:

I wanted a willwood MC on my car but found out it is a bit longer and could not be made to fit with the stock booster.

i went with the TuffStuff booster for the mustang. Turns out it is a boss429 booster just not a concourse version.

fits perfect, works great. Was less expensive than a stock rebuild. And gives more room in that area to work around.

overall very happy

Rsanter,

Did the TuffStuff booster work with a manual set-up or are you running an automatic? 

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7 hours ago, det0326 said:

Can't tell you which setup works good but I can tell you what won't work well. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-68-69-70-Mustang-Power-brake-booster-master-cylinder-valve-disc-disc-03383/331735871979?fits=Year%3A1969|Model%3AMustang&hash=item4d3cffb1eb:g:jooAAOxyirJSEmhK&vxp=mtr

I put this on my 69 and it has a very hard petal, I honestly don't think I could lock it up with both feet.  Vintage anti lock brakes LOL

My friend put one on his 69 as well, the only difference is he has disc/drums and I have disc/disc. He has the same issue.

That looks like a single diaphragm booster, did you change the brake pedal to the correct ratio power brake pedal? Did you lock the piston in the distribution valve before you bled the brakes, if the piston has moved it will block off fluid flow to either the front or rear brakes.

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Yes it is a single stage. Yes the kit I purchased had the power brake petal with it. Brake warning light is not on does this mean the piston would still be centered? I am running 8.8 explorer rear with explorer disc and mustang steve adapter for 2005-2014 mustang disc's on front. I believe some of my issue is the ratio of the m/c piston size and caliper piston size ratio. The m/c kit I purchased has a 1-1/8 piston and since I am running late model mustang calipers on the front, I checked to see what the 2005 to 2014 m/c piston size is and I found it to be 1-1/16.  I probably should have got a m/c with 1" or 1-1/16".  This m/c I purchased is actually for an early model corvette (maybe the problem lol)  that has been adapted to the mustang. 

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vicfreg

That proportional/distribution valve looks like the one I have except my kit has a corvette m/c, yours looks more like a ford m/c. Do you know a number on it?

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Hey det0326.  If you look at pages 15 and 16 of my build thread (1970 mustang convertible), you can see all of the details and pictures.

But, to summarize, I used a 1992 Ford Ranger Master Cylinder, as it has drivers side ports.  I already had purchased a 2000 Mustang Master Cylinder, which has passenger side ports, which did not work for me.  So, what I did, was use the 2000 Mustang reservoir on the 1992 Ranger body.  I got my booster and proportioning valve from Master Power Brakes, which is a local company for me.  (Mooresville, NC).   

Unilec is correct.  When you bleed your brakes, you need to use an insert (see picture) to make sure you don't shuttle the piston in the proportioning valve.

I see no reason why your brakes are really hard, unless you have a radical cam and are not making enough vacuum.  

 

 

IMG_3706.jpg

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21 minutes ago, Vicfreg said:

Hey det0326.  If you look at pages 15 and 16 of my build thread (1970 mustang convertible), you can see all of the details and pictures.

But, to summarize, I used a 1992 Ford Ranger Master Cylinder, as it has drivers side ports.  I already had purchased a 2000 Mustang Master Cylinder, which has passenger side ports, which did not work for me.  So, what I did, was use the 2000 Mustang reservoir on the 1992 Ranger body.  I got my booster and proportioning valve from Master Power Brakes, which is a local company for me.  (Mooresville, NC).   

Unilec is correct.  When you bleed your brakes, you need to use an insert (see picture) to make sure you don't shuttle the piston in the proportioning valve.

I see no reason why your brakes are really hard, unless you have a radical cam and are not making enough vacuum.  

 

 

IMG_3706.jpg

Just checked the brake warning light again and it is working it comes on while cranking for indicate  it is not burned out. I can also jump the switch wire and light comes on .

 The light is not on so wouldn't it be safe to say that the switch is centered in it's bore.  You are correct on the vacuum, i have a mild cam and vacuum is about 13 in. at idle according to FiTech hand held but I guess I should put a good gauge on it to confirm. 

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while on this subject does anyone know the pedal ratio for the 1969 power pedal. I know from the pivot point to the m/c push rod is 5.0 inches but I don't know the distance from pivot point to center of pedal pad.

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