lanky 44 Report post Posted February 14, 2018 While working on my car today the DS window glass came unglued at the rear bracket. I genuinely don't know what made this happen, the car was on jackstands on the frame rails with window half rolled down and suddenly I heard a bad sound. Yes my window has been rattling for years, is that not normal? (joking). The glass is okay which is great. I am sure that since the whole glass assembly has to come out that now is the time to replace any worn parts, like the regulator and my decrepit window/door weatherstripping. I would like to know what I should go ahead and purchase besides the obvious (regulator, weatherstripping, and glue). I don't have the money for a bolt in glass replacement right now. Unless someone has a deal and isn't too far away. Which glue have people had good luck with? I will read every existing forum and watch every video before I ask dumb questions about dis/reassembly and adjustment. I already marked where the bolts are in the slots but haven't done any disassembly yet. Mainly I don't want to forget to buy certain parts I can't think of, as I want to purchase said parts asap. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lanky 44 Report post Posted February 15, 2018 Which regulator is best? The dynacorn one looks the best, but that's just based on pictures/description. I will definitely get new guides, but is it worth it to buy a new window runs? Do they wear out? List so far: regulator guides various weatherstripping glue Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69ShelbyGT350H 61 Report post Posted February 15, 2018 Even though it's a Cougar, its the same thing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69ShelbyGT350H 61 Report post Posted February 15, 2018 Measurements for the brackets are different for the Mustang than the Cougar. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob & Sue 110 Report post Posted February 15, 2018 I did mine last year it can be a pain, the PO had done a mickey mouse job filling it with several kinds of silicone & grinding out the original factory glue which tapered the brackets. I had to shim them to get them in the correct position by trial and error. 1) I wouldn't buy new regulators unless they're bent, just mushroom the pivot head as shown in the video 2) Doubt you need new guides it should only need new guide inserts ( buy a couple extras ) https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/69wguide.html?attribs=88 3) I'd only use the 3M Bonding Adhesive. In the video he uses a caulking gun with a bolt held on by a C clamp i wasted a tube when one of the bolts popped loose instead get a couple pieces of 1/2" PVC tubing to fit the tube or buy the 3M Gun. https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/10022242.html?attribs=88 https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/14391-Adhesive-/-Epoxy-Applicator-Dual-Plunger-New-1967-1973-Mercury-/-1965-1973-Ford.html?attribs=88 4) Check the window runs the welds tend to brake if there's any rust inside the door. If not don't waste the money in repops. 5) I sprayed the inside of both doors with a rust inhibitor. I didn't have any rust inside just a precaution. 6) Lined the inside of door with pieces dynamat. 7) Get a new set of Vapor Barriers & Belt lines. Shop around the prices are all over the place. That's all I can think of. Sure someone else has some more tips 1 Mvh0477 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted February 15, 2018 That is pretty much the route I took Bob. In the video he explains the the repop plastic inserts are smaller and looser than original worn inserts. He explains to change them side to side for each bracket. That places the unworn side back in use. I agree also with tightening up the regulator pivot pin. With that 3M glue you don't have much time if working in warm weather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob & Sue 110 Report post Posted February 15, 2018 40 minutes ago, RPM said: That is pretty much the route I took Bob. In the video he explains the the repop plastic inserts are smaller and looser than original worn inserts. He explains to change them side to side for each bracket. That places the unworn side back in use. I agree also with tightening up the regulator pivot pin. With that 3M glue you don't have much time if working in warm weather. Since making the video they have a new source for the repop guide inserts they are almost an exact fit. I was lucky enough when I called to order the parts to talk with Don about it. 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lanky 44 Report post Posted February 15, 2018 Appreciate all the info guys. It looks like leaving the factory adhesive as a guide is a good idea, how should I go about cleaning it up though? Just some sand paper and a good wipe down after? Because the front bracket is still attached I will try to separate it with a razor like WCCC did. I'll try re- mushrooming the regulator and see if it tightens up, I suspect one of the arms is bent and will have to restraighten that as well. Flipping the guide pieces is genius and I will try that. What do the vapor barriers do? It seems like they would lock humidity inside the doors, or do they just prevent the door panels from moisture? Which supplier do you recommend for the weatherstripping, felt lines? I've had bad luck with items not fitting in the past. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LiLMike 42 Report post Posted February 15, 2018 Now would be the time to upgrade to the 70 Bolt-In-Glass. CJ Pony have the kits and instructions on video. I did this to both sides of my 69 and love it. Replaced everything with new parts and now I can shut my doors with the windows up and there are no rattles. Don't forget to replace the cat whisker felt also. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob & Sue 110 Report post Posted February 15, 2018 1 hour ago, lanky said: Appreciate all the info guys. It looks like leaving the factory adhesive as a guide is a good idea, how should I go about cleaning it up though? Just some sand paper and a good wipe down after? Because the front bracket is still attached I will try to separate it with a razor like WCCC did. I'll try re- mushrooming the regulator and see if it tightens up, I suspect one of the arms is bent and will have to restraighten that as well. Flipping the guide pieces is genius and I will try that. What do the vapor barriers do? It seems like they would lock humidity inside the doors, or do they just prevent the door panels from moisture? Which supplier do you recommend for the weatherstripping, felt lines? I've had bad luck with items not fitting in the past. Just my opinion if the front bracket is in tack holding strong I'd leave it alone ( I'm lazy ) It's the rear bracket that usually breaks loose from improper adjustment pushing against the stop & rear of window pushing against the quarter window. Rough up the old glue with sand paper & rinse it with alcohol is what I did. The vapor barrier stops moisture leading to mold & mildew on your door panels, there's a drip hole in the rear of the door vacuum it out any water in the door should drain out. I bought most of my door stuff from California Mustangs they had a sale with free shipping complete door panels, complete car weatherstripping kit, beltlines, & the rest from WCCC & CJ's. I destroyed 1 outer beltline CJ was the only one that sold outers only. I'd get new guides for $1.50 a piece the old ones can brake removing them. It's a crap shoot Cal Mustang carries Distinctive Ind door panels which are the best made. I would have changed to bolt in windows if it were a fastback couldn't see spending the money on a coupe. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lanky 44 Report post Posted February 17, 2018 I can't afford to do the '70 windows otherwise I would. So you think I shouldn't unglue the front window bracket? That would save me some time, but man would I be upset if that one ever came loose. Probably going to order everything today, leaning towards WCCC products. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shep69 149 Report post Posted February 18, 2018 Another reason these brackets can come off is due to the fact that when you wind the window down it bottoms out on the rubber stop . If you overwind going down it puts pressure on the brackets. I cut some 15mm pvc pipe and cut it down the length . I put this on both front and rear bars so when you wind the window down the brackets hit the top of the pipe instead of centre of the window hitting the rubber stop. This also helps with the felts at the end of the door not getting hooked up all the time. 3 RPM, Bob & Sue and mwye0627 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lanky 44 Report post Posted February 18, 2018 That's a good tip Shep69! How did you fasten the pvc? I'm having a hard time imagining where it mounted. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shep69 149 Report post Posted February 18, 2018 1 hour ago, lanky said: That's a good tip Shep69! How did you fasten the pvc? I'm having a hard time imagining where it mounted. You place the pvc pipe on the vertical adjusting bars that the U shaped brackets slide up and down. By slicing down one side of the pipe you can push it over the vertical bars and it fits snug . It’s a bit of trial and error to get the pipe to the height you want. 2 1 mwye0627, lanky and Bob & Sue reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ralt962 11 Report post Posted February 20, 2018 The video shown above is great. Very close to what you need. The one thing I learned the hard was was with the brackets and how they fit on the glass. If you clean out the old glue, chances are your bracket will have some amount of in and out movement on the glass. You can flex it. Nothing is there to center the bracket on the glass. If you glue it with the glass laying on the table, the bracket will hang down which will make your window proud to the door seal when you shut the door. I used the 3M product with the caulk gun. I would say its worth investing in the right tool. But with the glass laying down the bracket will have some level of movement up and down. Find the center of the bracket on the glass and either create the right size wedge or create a support that will hold it exactly in place as it dries. After one attempt, I was able to find the correct center up and down. When the door was back together I had a good fit to the body seal. My failed attempt the glass stuck out too far and even the adjustment at the bottom of the door was not enough to fix it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob & Sue 110 Report post Posted February 20, 2018 As stated above you don't want to disturb the factory glue just rough it up. I had to shim my passenger side because the PO had messed it all up the channels were tapered 1/4" from top to bottom. Just be as careful as you can it's not that hard of a job to do, but time consuming to do it right. Once you start you'll figure it out. It's great to have doors that close like new from the factory & don't leak. DON'T forget to spray the inside with a rust inhibitor, clean everything of old grease, lube everything including the door lock mechanism while it's apart. It's not rocket science the worst you can do is need to buy a new or old channel. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lanky 44 Report post Posted February 21, 2018 I appreciate everyone's experience. Thanks guys. I will update this thread as needed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lanky 44 Report post Posted March 1, 2018 On 2/15/2018 at 11:48 AM, Bob & Sue said: Just my opinion if the front bracket is in tack holding strong I'd leave it alone ( I'm lazy ) It's the rear bracket that usually breaks loose from improper adjustment pushing against the stop & rear of window pushing against the quarter window. Rough up the old glue with sand paper & rinse it with alcohol is what I did. The vapor barrier stops moisture leading to mold & mildew on your door panels, there's a drip hole in the rear of the door vacuum it out any water in the door should drain out. I bought most of my door stuff from California Mustangs they had a sale with free shipping complete door panels, complete car weatherstripping kit, beltlines, & the rest from WCCC & CJ's. I destroyed 1 outer beltline CJ was the only one that sold outers only. I'd get new guides for $1.50 a piece the old ones can brake removing them. It's a crap shoot Cal Mustang carries Distinctive Ind door panels which are the best made. I would have changed to bolt in windows if it were a fastback couldn't see spending the money on a coupe. You say CalMustang sells Distinctive Industries door panels and that they're the best. Are these what you mean? http://www.cal-mustang.com/product/1969-light-blue-2-2-door-panel-kit/interior-interior-soft-trim-door-panels They also have TMI which *look* like better quality. http://www.cal-mustang.com/product/12034/tmi-upholstery-and-soft-trim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob & Sue 110 Report post Posted March 1, 2018 I'd call them the sku # is TMI which I think is a subsidiary of Distinctive Ind. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob & Sue 110 Report post Posted March 1, 2018 29 minutes ago, lanky said: You say CalMustang sells Distinctive Industries door panels and that they're the best. Are these what you mean? http://www.cal-mustang.com/product/1969-light-blue-2-2-door-panel-kit/interior-interior-soft-trim-door-panels They also have TMI which *look* like better quality. http://www.cal-mustang.com/product/12034/tmi-upholstery-and-soft-trim The SKU: 68544-2 is the same as mine for the TMI product. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lanky 44 Report post Posted March 2, 2018 Cool. Looks like I'll get new door panels from TMI. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites