RPM 1,190 Report post Posted February 17, 2017 I'd like a little direction, advice and how and where you guys ran additional wires thru the firewall. I've got two gauges (electrical) and two idiot lights (and one idiot electrician) installed in the center console gauge pod. I'd like to run three or four wires for 1) oil temp, 2) oil pressure idiot light, 3) water temp idiot light, 4) and maybe the transmission fluid temp. I may run the trans temp wire up thru the tranny shifter area if the sensor is installed in the pan.I think Randy at Midlife ran the new tachometer signal wire thru the stock wire harness grommet on the firewall. Edit: Not the plug connection at the fuse box, but further towards the center in front of the driver. Can additional wires be run thru the stock grommet? And if so, how? I know I can always install a new grommet, but the stock main wire harness grommet is in the ideal location for me.Thanks guys. 3 aapedVem, ncdruroSor and qapedVem reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted February 17, 2017 Yes Bob you can I did on mine. There is a few spare holes that you can add male and female pins to the connector block at the firewall.. I forget how many but I think I ran 3 extras and seems like there was still some more unused. If your car is all together it might be easier to make your own hole at a convenient place and install some kind of grommet. Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted February 17, 2017 Wow that is not my attached thumbnail but how convenient I'm just at the point with my car with all the weight on the suspension and about to tighten everything up. Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted February 17, 2017 Oh and Bob if you need some of those pins I may have some if I can find them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted February 17, 2017 I'm looking for ideas on the same gauges for water and oil on my car. I originally wedged the wiring through the big pigtail Grommet but would like to know what other options exist. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted February 17, 2017 As the President of the Dept of Miscommunication I need to clarify the firewall location. The area where I'd like to pass thru the firewall is at the engine harness grommet hole, in line with the left cylinder head. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted February 17, 2017 Wow that is not my attached thumbnail but how convenient I'm just at the point with my car with all the weight on the suspension and about to tighten everything up. Dave Oops, deleted it before I read this post. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted February 17, 2017 I'm looking for ideas on the same gauges for water and oil on my car. I originally wedged the wiring through the big pigtail Grommet but would like to know what other options exist. That would be my choice, but how did you get the wire thru the rubber? I'd rather not damage the existing wires. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted February 17, 2017 Sorry my confusion I thought you were talking about the fuse block connector.. Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted February 17, 2017 No no, my mistake. So how did you get the wire thru the grommet? I used a 1/16" welding rod as a fish and pushed it thru the grommet, attached the electrical wire to the rod similar to home electrical, but couldn't keep the wire attached as it passed back thru the 48 year old, harder than Chinese arithmetic rubber. 1 Caseyrhe reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted February 17, 2017 Tubing, brass and aluminum, can be found at most hobby stores in 1'-2' lengths...Hobby Lobby and Michaels Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob & Sue 110 Report post Posted February 17, 2017 I tried running a wire thru there with a small size Klein fish tape with no luck I tried from both sides inside car and engine compartment it felt like it was going to damage something it was really tight, ended up going thru the fuse block hole. Like to know if you find a way I want to re-route water temp & oil pressure to a GT350 gauge cluster in the old ash tray hole on the console. I might just add another hole for all add on wiring and oil pressure tube with another fuse block before it becomes a bigger mess trying to trace wiring from the PO. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted February 17, 2017 That would be my choice, but how did you get the wire thru the rubber? I'd rather not damage the existing wires. Originally I forced the wire the side of the grommet (pushing the grommet to the side which put my wire against a sharp edge of the hole). I was hoping to use a little used hole somewhere and use a grommet. Anyone know how shelbys did it? My one temp gauge is an autometer with a temp sending unit. The other(the oil pressure) was a this hose that went to the oil filter mount. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69RavenConv 286 Report post Posted February 17, 2017 I think I used a small awl to push my tachometer wire through that grommet. I lubed the wire with some dish soap and stabbed the insulation of the wire with the pointy end of the awl, then pushed them both gently thru the grommet until I could grab the wire from the other side. It is a tight fit, I only needed the one wire, though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob & Sue 110 Report post Posted February 17, 2017 I found this on Scott Drakes site it's for a 67 pod but should be similar. UNDER THE HOOD: The oil pressure gauge oil tube will need to be routed through the firewall and out to the oil pressure sender on the engine block. Determine the best route for your application. You may wish to drill a new hole through the firewall. A small grommet is provided. Use care while pulling the oil tube through the firewall so as not to cut it on sharp edges. The tube should never be bent or kinked. If this occurs, the tube should be replaced. We provide a coated woven tube that can be added to the oil tube prior to final installation. This woven tube will help protect the nylon oil tube from being melted from contact with exhaust headers or the engine block and provide protection from sharp edges. The ammeter gauge will require the two 10 gauge wires to be routed out to the starter solenoid and alternator. Choose the best location and route for your application. HINT: The upper center of the firewall between the export brace mounting holes may have 2 or 3 dimples in the metal from the factory. These provide a good location to drill 2 holes and route the wires. Again, use care while pulling the wires through the holes. Use the grommets provided to protect the wires and seal the firewall. https://www.cjponyparts.com/skin/frontend/cj-pony/default/images/install-pdf/install_sgp.pdf Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 476 Report post Posted February 17, 2017 On my 2000 Ranger when I ran wiring for my aux lights there is a hole in the door post with a plug in it, I removed the plug & drilled a hole in it & ran the wires through it & then sealed it up with some RTV sealer, the 69 Mustang has a hole like that just below the l/s upper door hinge. Or you could drill a small hole in the firewall where you want to run the wires through & use a small open wire grommet & just seal the remaining opening with RTV to seal out water & air. https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Grommet-Gasket-7mmx2mm-Groove/dp/B011HJCY1U/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1487360890&sr=8-11&keywords=wire+rubber+grommet Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moodster 55 Report post Posted February 17, 2017 I wanted to run my wires down the left cylinder head of my engine as well. I originally crammed 2-3 wires through the center of the existing cluster of wires. Well eventually I couldn't get anymore wires through it... so I drilled a new hole about two inches directly below it. That hole is the same size as the factory one so I can fit a lot of new wires. Once on the engine I wrapped all the new wires with the old ones so it looks stock. Additionally you have some Ford harness supports that you can wire to on the inside so I found this location to be ideal. david Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted February 17, 2017 Dave that's the direction I think will best suit my needs (current needs that is, which will probably/certainly change). With the number of wires I already need to run by using another hole I'll have room for future wires. Mucho thanks guys, I do appreciate the ideas and help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted February 17, 2017 Aint there some big ol holes with rubber plugs in them over on the driver side, just pop a hole in one of the grommets and run the wires, then slip them into some vac hose for protection and that factory look and be done with it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted February 18, 2017 Yes Mike, but I don't like the idea of having wires run along the inner fender or across the firewall to get to the engine. I think it will be cleaner to come out of the grommet, have a four prong plug like the stock engine harness and continue along the engine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted February 18, 2017 I routinely run one or two extra lines through the firewall grommet, but I have a technique that I'd like to keep private: trade secret. It ain't easy to do, though... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted February 18, 2017 I routinely run one or two extra lines through the firewall grommet, but I have a technique that I'd like to keep private: trade secret. It ain't easy to do, though... Your killing me Smalls! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
larryc94 38 Report post Posted February 18, 2017 http://www.thexton.com/wire-insertion-tool-p-44.html can be gotten for less https://www.amazon.com/Thexton-THE436-Wire-Insertion-tool/dp/B000P9IGCA/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1487385089&sr=1-1&keywords=thexton+436 The handle is hollow, I have the older red handle one. Push the tool through the grommet, push the wire through the handle, then remove tool, done Larry Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted February 18, 2017 BAM! Just like that, done. Hot damn Larry, you da man! It's a simplex tool, a simple solution to a complex problem. Thank you Larry! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted February 18, 2017 How about going through the speedometer cable grommet? Pull the grommet, slit it and open up the center a bit, then push your connectors through and reinstall the grommet. B. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
