Raven R code 281 Report post Posted January 7, 2017 Rebuilt my pedal support with the roller bearing. Now when looking at it, it looks misaligned. It could be correct but just looking at it different now. Does it look right? 10 tapedVem, japedVem, serhosting and 7 others reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted January 7, 2017 In your top picture, the height different between the clutch and brake pedal is normal and will be a little less after you install the rubber up-stop for the clutch pedal. But in your lower picture, the clutch pedal doesn't look straight. It looks bent towards the brake pedal a little. Something is out of sorts. But maybe you can bend the clutch pedal a little near the top. Might need some heat to do so. If you use heat, let is cool slowly afterwards. Were the holes I the pedal support worn out? Now maybe things are a little out of alignment? That would explain what you are seeing now. The hole where the clutch rod attaches looks a little worn as well. I had to weld mine and redrill it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969vert 55 Report post Posted January 7, 2017 I had to cut my clutch pedal to match my brake pedal in my convertible..I just wacked off about 1/2" to 3/4" and shortened it so it would match...My pedals were from several different 69s .....My brake pedal was from the automatic...Just cut the pad down..Could you raise the mounting point on the brakes....If the pin still lines up with the master? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted January 7, 2017 Bottom of pedals are supposed to line up horizontally, looks as though the brake pedal is to short Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted January 7, 2017 See pictures Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted January 7, 2017 Nothing lines up on my set up. Same with my 65. Brian 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 476 Report post Posted January 8, 2017 Here is my set up in my 69 Coupe. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted January 8, 2017 My stock refurbished set up. Everything is lined up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 8, 2017 I think the pedals are like most of the other parts on our beloved Mustangs in that is either hit or miss with the alignment and measurements. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted January 8, 2017 I did follow mustang Steve's guidelines. I used a 69 power disc (automatic car) brake pedal on my stick car which originally had manual drums. Just trimmed the foot pad. Could there actually be a difference or might it be common to have mis-matched pedals? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted January 9, 2017 Nothing lines up on my set up. Same with my 65. Brian My pedals sit just like Brian Conway's. Which matches the few others that I have seen with manual transmissions. You mentioned trimming the auto trans brake pedal. If you are doing a manual trans conversion, maybe save your automatic pedal and get the correct power brake manual trans pedal. That's what I did. They are not too difficult to find and even being reproduced. Second, if it is a manual trans conversion from an auto trans the original bushings in the pedal support should have been in new condition. If the goal is a concourse (or as close as you can) restoration, you probably won't drive the car enough to wear out the original bushings. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moodster 55 Report post Posted January 9, 2017 My pedals sit like Brian's as well. My clutch pedal is original but the disc brake pedal is aftermarket. At first I thought I would do some reworking to make it look right but then I decided I'd just leave it alone. I assume Ford had a reason for it. david Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969vert 55 Report post Posted January 10, 2017 This is mine in my convertible...Had to shorten the clutch pedal to make it line up with the brake pedal...Was no big deal to do..Just a little welding... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob & Sue 110 Report post Posted January 10, 2017 This is mine in my convertible...Had to shorten the clutch pedal to make it line up with the brake pedal...Was no big deal to do..Just a little welding... Is your gas pedal higher than your brake pedal? I have that problem with an automatic the cable is new 23.7" long, ordered new Holley FMX kick down kit haven't received it yet. It's a Holley Street Avenger with Scott Drake return kit. The only way I can find to lower the gas pedal is to mount it with a different accelerator kit & adjustable cable or am I missing something. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted January 10, 2017 Is your gas pedal higher than your brake pedal? I have that problem with an automatic the cable is new 23.7" long, ordered new Holley FMX kick down kit haven't received it yet. It's a Holley Street Avenger with Scott Drake return kit. The only way I can find to lower the gas pedal is to mount it with a different accelerator kit & adjustable cable or am I missing something. The throttle cable bracket at the carb might be your problem. The original 4 barrel carb throttle cable bracket at the carb does not work with Holley carbs without being modified. NPD now sells a stainless steel throttle cable bracket just for Holley 4 barrel carbs if you don't want to modify yours. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 10, 2017 I assume Ford had a reason for it. david I'm thinking the reason is because Ford didn't use a tape measure when they built or cars :-) or at least my car. but then I decided I'd just leave it alone. david Sometimes doing nothing is the correct decision. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969vert 55 Report post Posted January 10, 2017 Yes the gas pedal is higher than the brake Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silverjade 35 Report post Posted January 13, 2017 I watched a West Coast Cougar You Tube video on converting to power brakes. Jogged my memory so I went to his web page. He (West Coast Cougar) says on his web page that disc brake pedal is longer then drum brake pedal. Also says you can trim an automatic brake pedal to work on a manual transmission car. (Both disc applications?) Then you have power or manual brake applications. Does that mean four or six possible combinations? I was always lousy on these type of brain teasers. He also indicates that 69 booster, pedal and hanger are one year only applications. Sorry for the confusion, but it looks like there are a lot of potential combinations that could be wrong vs the one right. JIM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted January 13, 2017 Nothing lines up on my set up. Same with my 65. Brian If you look at Brian's pictures in his earlier post, this is correct and what you end up with if you have power brakes. In my opinion, The height differences of Ravenrcode's pedals are not the issue. But, from the pictures it looks like the clutch pedal is not straight and angled toward the brake pedal. Either the clutch pedal is bent or something is a little out-of-sorts with the pivot shaft and/or the installed shaft roller bearings. In the pictures, even the upper part of the clutch pedal that the assist spring attaches to looks out of alignment. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
