Suspension Upgrade??

[Rsmach1 71]

Nickjames138, you need to check all the bushings/ball joints, put those new springs/shocks on, have the alignment done.

 

Also check the play in the steering box. A quality rack isn't a waste of $ if you can afford it.

[nickjames138 15]

I already put the KYB shocks in and got it aligned. It rides a lot better! Today I bought new scott Drake perch saddles, front and rear Monte Carlo bar, new springs and spring insulators and I'm going to do the Shelby Drop and see how that feels then. 

 

What's better Rack and Pinion or Borgenson Power Steering box? 

[rwcstang 201]

I already put the KYB shocks in and got it aligned. It rides a lot better! Today I bought new scott Drake perch saddles, front and rear Monte Carlo bar, new springs and spring insulators and I'm going to do the Shelby Drop and see how that feels then. 

 

What's better Rack and Pinion or Borgenson Power Steering box? 

im surprised you didn't go with opens tracker's roller perch. 

[Rsanter 152]

You need to further specify what you want/expect.

Rides like a new car....sports car, super car.....

Or rides like a new car....more comfortable?

More comfortable like a Camry or a lincolin town car?

 

I like the improvement that variable rate springs give. For more comfort you also do not want low profile tires and should stick with rubber bushings verses poly

 

Bob

[nickjames138 15]

Scott Drakes Perch saddles were at the shop I got my parts from, so I bought them by default. Plus Barnett had a shopping list on another thread stating these were good saddles, so?  

 

Rsanter, obviously I know I won't get a feel as great as a mercedes, but I love the way my gf's Benz drives. It's tight steering. I also like the way the new Mustangs drive in sport mode! Really fun! I'd like it to handle like that. Getting rid of the 18's and low profiles isn't an option. I love the protouring look! 

[Grabber70Mach 107]

I'll second the roller perches being a big plus. If you can DIY I would order the kit that Dazecars sells and build a set, I did and wouldn't hesitate to do it again.

[RogerC 136]

Then, next two issues that I can live with but would rather not, is grooves pulling my car (there are a lot in Los Angeles) and manual steering.

 

The car pulling in the grooves is not a car problem. The asphalt shifts with heavy traffic, especially trucks. When width of these grooves created by trucks don't match the track of the vehicle you're driving it tends to make the car dart from side to side as it tries to follow these grooves. As long as your manual steering is good with no play I see no problem there.

[nickjames138 15]

I'm highly considering a borgeson power steering box the entire kit is $860 I know I could install myself, but I don't have the workspace. I was quoted $250 labor.

 

I've heard a success story on a Randall Rack and pinion for $1400, but I know labor will be a lot more.

 

Which is the better option? It's my daily driver and the manual steering is starting to wear me down! I'd love for it to have tight steering, better cornering, etc because I'm still young and like to think I'm in Fast and Furious or transporter.

[nickjames138 15]

I also want to address the original poster. Welcome to the forum.

 

If you've never driven or owned an old car, it a romantic notion that you'll be able to get an old car almost 50...to drive (and feel)like a new car. I don't know if you ever done this or not but I find a lot of people who have never driven a classic on a regular basis think they can make it feel like a new car. It's just not going to happen. The whole feel of an old car I'd much different. Steering, feedback, sound....ergonomics of where everything is even contributes to the feel.

 

Now you can build it to to handle really well but that won't make it feel like driving a new car. Driving "feel" and handling should be considered different things. You can make it handle extremely well but the driving experience might suck. Or you can make it drive well but the handling sucks. If it's a track car...handling is what you may want and in this case it'll drive well for you on the track. Hand that same car to someone who wants a car that drives well on the street and I think they'll be disappointed. Drag cars are different, street cars are different, restomod/protour...different, and a track car are different all with different proposes and different "feel" built to meet a specific or or mix of certain functions.

 

This is my goal.....What I want is a car that I can drive around town, handles well compared to street cars, has good drive-ability and if fun to drive...on the street. So my car would not drive real well on the track or at the drag strip compared to cars built for those specific duties. Those cars would not meet my needs either though...I don't want a rail suspension on a car I drive over train tracks or down the highway in traffic. I also don't need a 10 second car or the street-ability issues that accompany it.

 

 

Long story short....read and research. Figure out your goals and you'll need to build to that goal. We'll help you reach that specific goal with experience and advice. You'll sacrifice some things to accomplish others and have to do what you can with your budget. And if not anything else, remember the "feel" or the "way it drives" does not equal how it handles....common misconception.

 

I just took all the suspension parts that I bought back to the store. 

 

I was talked into getting a Rack and Pinion. I've researched all the Racks out there and it seems as if TCP has the best. Then, I decided I might as well go all in. I want my car to handle the best it can handle on the streets and be really fun to drive. I'm considering just buying a complete front end suspension package from TCP.  Are there any part that I should buy from a separate vendor or can I just get it all from TCP? I want this transition to be as seamless as possible. I don't want to have to double pay. I also want to get subframe connectors and get the rear suspension to match the front. If I have enough money left over I would love to delete the shock towers as well. 

 

I'm basically looking for a good shopping list if anyone has one that matches my needs which again are: daily driver that handles great on the freeway and is fun to drive. I want to keep the 18" wheels and Nitto Low Pros and keep the ride height the same as it is now. If anything a tad lower not higher. 

 

Thank you fellas

[barnett468 418]

I just took all the suspension parts that I bought back to the store. 

 

I was talked into getting a Rack and Pinion. I've researched all the Racks out there and it seems as if TCP has the best. Then, I decided I might as well go all in. I want my car to handle the best it can handle on the streets and be really fun to drive. I'm considering just buying a complete front end suspension package from TCP.  Are there any part that I should buy from a separate vendor or can I just get it all from TCP? I want this transition to be as seamless as possible. I don't want to have to double pay. I also want to get subframe connectors and get the rear suspension to match the front. If I have enough money left over I would love to delete the shock towers as well. 

 

I'm basically looking for a good shopping list if anyone has one that matches my needs which again are: daily driver that handles great on the freeway and is fun to drive. I want to keep the 18" wheels and Nitto Low Pros and keep the ride height the same as it is now. If anything a tad lower not higher. 

 

Thank you fellas

 

 

you could not pay me to use a rack and pinion . had several different types including tcp on several different mustangs and they were all crap . complete waste of money . there is zero wrong with the factory steering when the parts are not worn out

 

i would also not delete the shock towers unless you have a show car . there is zero benefit to doing that and you cant see it when you are driving anyway.

 

since you seem to have unlimited funds, i would run the following

 

tcp upper control arms

 

roller bearing perches

 

roller bearing idler arm but you will loose sone automatic return to center with it which you can slightly compensate for by running more caster like around 4 degrees . some people run 6 . some run 2 1/2.

 

bilstein or koni shocks

 

520 rate front springs

 

145 rate rear springs

 

15/16" front sway bar

 

if your steering box is worn, get the gear refaced or buy a borgeson.

 

looks like your front wheels will hit at some point.

.