Suspension Upgrade??

[Total Control Products 24]

RE Tire Sidewall: Barnett468 speaks the truth.  While the lower profile tires provide more predictable handling they do so at the sacrifice of ride compliance.  They transmit more noise, vibration, and harshness (commonly referred to as NVH) than a taller sidewall simply because they are much stiffer.  I like to think about the tire as another spring. Because it is a shorter spring it has to be stiffer to keep from bottoming out whereas a longer spring can be softer to absorb impacts over a greater distance.

 

Most new cars have fairly low profile tires, so I think we're kind of used to it at this point.  Granted, there's a big difference between handling like a new Mustang and a new Camry.  Thank God!

 

 

On a separate note: Yep, I'm here to talk about Total Control Products. Ya got me. :-) But I'm also here to help make sure that people get the parts they need and that they know how they work. And, more often than not, to dispel rumors and incorrect information. The average car guy can tell you all about the benefits of one cam vs another but doesn't know a whole lot about suspension.  I'm kind of the opposite.  I'm the last guy you want helping to build your engine, but I can help you tune the chassis package.

 

FVike told me about this forum when he called about fixing his Sportsroof a couple years ago. I stop in now and then to see how things are going on his build, and a couple others. Not nearly as often as I would like. 

 

I only field a handful of sales calls a day.  The rest of the time I spend answering tech emails, running our Facebook pages, and cruising the forums for questions and trying to provide some tech insight. Sorry if I've stepped on any toes in the process.

[barnett468 418]

Well, that's not "ride like a rock" as you first stated ;)

Firmer I can agree on, as of course a 55 profile tire will have a smoother ride than a 35 profile tire (on the same shock absorber).

 

I have swapped 75 series tires for 50 series on a car that had moderately stiff suspension with no other changes than the tires and it rode like a rock for lack of better terms like excessively firm, bone jarring, or teeth ratting etc . Debating semantics or critiquing someones choice of adjectives is not helpful to anyone.

[barnett468 418]

TCP

 

If there is a section for vendors here, it might be useful to people if you also made a post or something in that area explaining what you have and extol all the virtues of TCP products which in fact there are many.

 

In addition, it might help endear you and your company to members if you also offered some type of discount to them like maybe 5% on purchases from $100.00 - $199.99 purchases and 10% for $200.00 on up.

 

With free shipping on all purchases of course!

 

Also, if you simply don't include text in the regular forums saying that people can call you for more info, it would most likely ruffle less feathers, besides, my guess is that most people realize that if they want more info on a part etc, they can go to the mfg's site and get their email or phone number.

[fvike 173]

Barnett, you stated that having a low profile tire *will* result in a rock hard ride. I say that is not true. I disagreed with the advice you gave the OP, and I let you and him know. That's all. This is a discussion board after all.

 

Since you are picking fights left and right here; I'll throw in this: I think it's great that TCP is reaching out to the online communities to tell us about their products. Of course they are looking to make a buck, but I don't see anything wrong with that. We as enthusiasts need the aftermarket industy to keep our cars on the road. There are other vendors on this board that does the same (MustangsToFear). I never seen anyone complain about them. In fact, I wish there was more companies that would do this. 

 

To the OP: Sorry your thread got messed up. We were all just trying to help. I hope you at least got some good info out of it.

[barnett468 418]

Barnett, you stated that having a low profile tire *will* result in a rock hard ride. I say that is not true. I disagreed with the advice you gave the OP, and I let you and him know. That's all. This is a discussion board after all.

 

Since you are picking fights left and right here; I'll throw in this: I think it's great that TCP is reaching out to the online communities to tell us about their products. Of course they are looking to make a buck, but I don't see anything wrong with that. We as enthusiasts need the aftermarket industy to keep our cars on the road. There are other vendors on this board that does the same (MustangsToFear). I never seen anyone complain about them. In fact, I wish there was more companies that would do this. 

 

To the OP: Sorry your thread got messed up. We were all just trying to help. I hope you at least got some good info out of it.

 

 

You are now trying to start trouble by saying I am picking fights which I am not and this is obvious to anyone that reads the posts . If you want to be helpful, I suggest you quickly try a different approach, because the one you are currently using won't benefit anyone. and is disruptive

 

Yes Mustangs to Fear does post on here also, however, I don't remember them ever openly soliciting business or telling people to call them although they may have.

 

The point has been made regarding just what the vendors post and you obviously fail to understand ti which is unfortunate, however, I am not going to spend any more time trying to explain it to you.

 

Also, disagreeing with what I or anyone posts is perfectly fine, and so is telling someone that a set of $5000.00 computer controlled shocks will provide a much smoother and controlled ride than a set of $200.00 ones, however, I doubt that anyone here finds that to be a practical suggestion.

 

His car would be much faster if the body was made from Titanium also.

 

If you find a post offensive, you can report it by clicking on the "REPORT" box on the lower right corner of the post.

 

PS - I even suggested TCP springs even BEFORE they posted, however, I can easily go back and change my post to say Scott Drake.

 

"REAR LEAF SPRINGS

 

135 lb mid eye or reverse eye depending on how much lower you want it . TCP springs are good."

 

 

.

.

[Convertible69 17]

Barnett468, I'm playing catch up on all the responses today, but just so you know, I do not drive a caddy or cedes ( made me laugh )....my everyday driver is a F-150. The tire size I have now is P22570R15's mounted on Magnum500's.

[barnett468 418]

Barnett468, I'm playing catch up on all the responses today, but just so you know, I do not drive a caddy or cedes ( made me laugh )....my everyday driver is a F-150. The tire size I have now is P22570R15's mounted on Magnum500's.

 

LOL, alrighty them, but I can tell you that a new/modern F150 drives much smoother than an old one AND smoother than an old Mustang.

 

The problem is with your description of the problem, obviously we can't tell exactly what you mean and nobody wants to suggest parts that will make your problem worse.

 

The parts I mentioned, are very typical and will make it much firmer than a box stock car, however, they are not on the high side of increasing ride firmness . A much firmer ride will be had by using 600 lb springs or higher and a 1" sway bar or larger etc.

 

Here's some info for reference and basic logic will serve you well here . The stock front springs for a 1970 mustang conv with a 351 cleveland is 290 lbs . the rear is 85 . the springs for a 1970 BOSS 429 are round 420 front and 152 rear.

 

the springs i suggested are 550 front and 135 rear . they used to make 480 springs for the front but they no longer do, however you can get some springs in the 400 range from detroit eaton, AND they can make them so your car sits lower than stock . you can call them for info.

 

https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/ordering/parts-lookup/

[fvike 173]

Ok, I won't take any shit, so here goes...
 

You are now trying to start trouble by saying I am picking fights which I am not and this is obvious to anyone that reads the posts . If you want to be helpful, I suggest you quickly try a different approach, because the one you are currently using won't benefit anyone. and is disruptive

I am trying to be helpful by discussing the statement you made about low profile wheels giving a rock hard ride that I disagree on. However, I want to set the record straight:
1. You did write "rock hard", and you  later wrote that you meant firmer.
2. When I pointed that out, (and telling you that I agree that a low profile wheel gives a firmer ride, on the same shock absorber), you chose to get on my back about being unhelpful and getting caught up in your wording, instead of acknowledging that we agreed on that statement (- even if it did miss my initial point.)
 

Yes Mustangs to Fear does post on here also, however, I don't remember them ever openly soliciting business or telling people to call them although they may have.

I'm not here to bash Mustangs To Fear. As I stated, I think it's great that vendors are on the forum.
 

The point has been made regarding just what the vendors post and you obviously fail to understand ti which is unfortunate, however, I am not going to spend any more time trying to explain it to you.

I do not fail to understand a thing about that. I simply disagree on it. I'll let the understated remark about my intelligence slide.
 

Also, disagreeing with what I or anyone posts is perfectly fine, and so is telling someone that a set of $5000.00 computer controlled shocks will provide a much smoother and controlled ride than a set of $200.00 ones, however, I doubt that anyone here finds that to be a practical suggestion.

Where did I tell anyone to go buy $5000.00 shocks? (BTW; $5000 was your number. They are in reality $825 a pair) The video was posted simply to underline the point that I was trying to make. I informed what suspension and dampers that particular car is set up with, instead of saying "Look at this video of a car with big rims and a smooth ride". Also, the point I was trying to make is that, a low profile wheel can provide a smooth ride, provided the dampening is right. Keep in mind that the premiss of the discussion is that the OP wants to replace the whole front suspension. That means that the shocks too. You seem to completely have missed this point in this reply:

I have swapped 75 series tires for 50 series on a car that had moderately stiff suspension with no other changes than the tires and it rode like a rock for lack of better terms like excessively firm, bone jarring, or teeth ratting etc .

You simply state that you once swapped 75 series tires with 50 series tires, and it resulted in a harsher ride. Seriously, from a guy that design suspensions, I'd expect a more qualified argument. I'll state my point again. A low profile wheel does not automaticly result in a harsh ride if the shock absorber is tuned to it. The OP requested adjustability in his suspension. That is why I made the argument in the first place.

And in this reply you miss the point too, even making contradicting statements:
 

FACT - it will make it ride firmer irregardless of what shocks you have.
 
You can even do a simple test to prove this, just remove the tires from your rims and drive over a few bumps, then install some 78 series radials and do the same thing.

First you state the ride will be firmer irregardless of what shock that is mounted on the car. Then you ask me to try a higher profile wheel on my car, without changing the shock! That it is not irregardless; it is with that particular shock absorber. Again, remember the context of my argument; the OP wanted to change all of his suspension parts. Not only the wheels or only the shocks. There is room to match those components. He has a clean sheet for his suspension setup. In both your arguments against my statement you do not account for this.
 
In fact, I have done what you ask. My previous car was an 2012 Audi A6. It was delivered with 245/40-18" wheels. The car had regular shock absorbers, not air suspension. My winter rims was 225/55-16" wheels with a higher profile tire. Tire diameter was 25.7" on both packages. According to your logic, I would get a softer, smoother ride with the 16" wheels. I did not. Why? The shock/spring package was obviously tuned to the heavier (cast aluminum, not forged, that would be lighter) 18" wheels that was original to the car. The lighter (also cast aluminum) 16" wheel would take poor roads and potholes in a worse manner because the damper was not tuned to its ligher weight. Relative to the the wheel, the suspension got stiffer with the lighter tire package on. So here we have a situation where the damper/spring package is tuned to control a larger mass than it was being presented with the 16" wheels. It made the movement of the 16" wheel limited, and thus stiffer. The 18" wheel was clearly the right for that suspension. Opposite of what you say. Which proves my point again; A correctly tuned shock is needed to control the wheel, low or tall profile. Would a properly tuned car with 16" wheels be smoother than a properly tuned car with 18" wheels? Probably yes, but an low profile wheel does not automaticly result in a harsh driving experience. Of course, the variable here is that I changed wheel sizes too, not different height tires on the same rim.

Then there is this:

sub frame connectors will make your ride firmer/harsher . i like them, however, in your case, i would not install them right away . you can always install them later if you want it more rigid.

Again, from a guy that designs suspensions, I am very surprised at this. You know as good as me that a stiffer chassis makes for a better platform for a suspension to do it's job. The OP has an convertible. They are very soft, and need all the help they can get strength wise. My argument is that with the right spring/shock setup, a better tuned suspension can be achieved with subframe connectors installed. Be that for a soft or firm ride. Spring rates and shock valving decide. A soft chassis with a lot of luggage in the trunk can actually be dangerous. Old Toyota Carina IIs was notorious for this. Going downhill with a heavy loaded trunk in one of those cars would make the car livid, and the rear end would try to overtake the front. Not an ideal situation.
 
 
To the op, Convertible69:
I think perhaps for your application, stating that "I would like it to ride smooth & not roll in corners." an air ride system might be the best choice. Stiff it up with subframe connectors and roll bars for cornering, and let the air suspension iron out bad road conditions. A complete air ride system starts at $4000.00 for the front and back. I don't know if you can do only the front first to make it fit within your budget. If you plan to do these upgrades over a few years, I'll also recommend the TCP rack & pinion. It is the best one out there, made up of Woodward internals. It will clear long tube headers. Power or manual is a personal preference. I have Power and is very happy with it. Easy town cruising and good feedback on the road. I did change the valve the pump once to get it where I wanted it.
 
Final word:
Ok, I've actually spent hours writing this post, so I have cooled down a bit.
I'd like to apologize to Barnett for saying that he was picking fights left or right. I should not have done that. I love this forum, and I am not here to make any enemies. Barnett, I would value your input on any future questions I might have, because you're obviously a resourceful fellow. But on the subject we discussed here, I feel you might have taken my opinion as critique, when I mean none. I simply tried to argument my view. I'm Norwegian, so english is not my mother tongue, I might expressed myself somewhat unclear.

[1969_Mach1 333]

I've seen posts from Mustangs To Fear. . . And there again it just doesn't seem right when mfg's and businesses write posts in a manner to seek out free advertisement or try to sell their product.  Maybe a manufacturer's page would be beneficial for ads.  Then at least 69stang.com could get some compensation from it to help cover operating costs.  I know it can be argued otherwise and I'm not looking for a debate.  In my mind it's just not right.  It kind of reminds me of the expression of calling a Layer an Ambulance chaser.

[Convertible69 17]

All,

Well, I joined this forum to learn about what other people were doing with their cars & this was definitely a learning experience to say the least. This was my first post & it seems like we were loose & got off track, but it's all good. There was actually a lot of good info given in this thread & I appreciate everyone's input. Thx!!

[Trinitys 134]

Vendors have always been a sore subject on where the the line gets crossed between being helpful and just selling stuff. So far TCP has contributed a great deal and provided knowledge that's sometimes much needed. Common sense tells you his post will be biased because this guys function is customer out reach.

 

I personally don't see an issue with vendors participating, in the knowledge sharing aspect of these forums as long as they don't start threads to drum attention or spam with blatant sales posts. I haven't seen that yet. In respects, some forum members on this and other forums who have grown to building a business from our hobbies do the same thing. They get sales based on their interaction with forum members. Randall's Rack, DAZE's cars, open tracker are all examples of people who, at one point just were forum members trying to share knowledge...and still do but also have a financial investment along with it. The forums helped build their business. They do it for the love of the hobby but really it's the same thing with TCP, they're just a larger company. So do we cut all vendors out or do we do it selectively? I say, if the vendor loves the hobby and contributes to the forum, we let them be. When it evolves into spam, we give notice.

[Trinitys 134]

I also want to address the original poster. Welcome to the forum.

If you've never driven or owned an old car, it a romantic notion that you'll be able to get an old car almost 50...to drive (and feel)like a new car. I don't know if you ever done this or not but I find a lot of people who have never driven a classic on a regular basis think they can make it feel like a new car. It's just not going to happen. The whole feel of an old car I'd much different. Steering, feedback, sound....ergonomics of where everything is even contributes to the feel.

Now you can build it to to handle really well but that won't make it feel like driving a new car. Driving "feel" and handling should be considered different things. You can make it handle extremely well but the driving experience might suck. Or you can make it drive well but the handling sucks. If it's a track car...handling is what you may want and in this case it'll drive well for you on the track. Hand that same car to someone who wants a car that drives well on the street and I think they'll be disappointed. Drag cars are different, street cars are different, restomod/protour...different, and a track car are different all with different proposes and different "feel" built to meet a specific or or mix of certain functions.

This is my goal.....What I want is a car that I can drive around town, handles well compared to street cars, has good drive-ability and if fun to drive...on the street. So my car would not drive real well on the track or at the drag strip compared to cars built for those specific duties. Those cars would not meet my needs either though...I don't want a rail suspension on a car I drive over train tracks or down the highway in traffic. I also don't need a 10 second car or the street-ability issues that accompany it.


Long story short....read and research. Figure out your goals and you'll need to build to that goal. We'll help you reach that specific goal with experience and advice. You'll sacrifice some things to accomplish others and have to do what you can with your budget. And if not anything else, remember the "feel" or the "way it drives" does not equal how it handles....common misconception.

[Guillaume69 150]

Interesting thread... I do not post very often, given my limited knowledge and language skills, but read you guys almost on a daily basis, if work allows, that is (i.e not deployed somewhere away from Internet connectivity).

 

To the OP, I'd like to say that I believe Trinity has it right: handling and ride quality ("feel") are two very different things. I've owned my 69 for 20 years now (we celebrated our anniversary last month. Woohoo!) and have steadily driven it all these years. Therefore, I know exactly what ride quality I'm into and what handling I need, say to simply stay out of the ditch. So what did the trick for me was shortened stock springs up front (1 coil, car is a GT), Konis and 235/60/15 tires all around.The rear is stock with refurbished leaf springs. As a result, the car turns flat (you just get less warning before losing control in a steep turn with those shocks, beware), ride quality is wonderful (meaning my beautiful wife always enjoys a ride with me), and when I run over rail tracks or any other type of irregular pavement, there is no rattle, no noise, no bone jarring shaking. I does "feel" like a new car, but certainly handles like a vintage American Muscle Car. Which is why I have a 69, not a 2016, and would never trade... ;-)

 

As far as professional sellers pitching in, I've always been impressed at how disciplined and respectful those guys have been here. I have seen way worse, and believe that on this specific forum, we get the best of both worlds: professional advice without the commercial advertising harassment and drama so typical in the US... I can only relate this to the high quality and education of all the members and moderators of this forum. Simply amazing!

 

Speaking of which, this is a hobby sharing place, not a boxing ring, chill out brothers! LOL

 

With regards from an ever watchful France.

 

G

[MikeStang 247]

Fvike, you gotta take Barnett with a Grain of Salt sometimes HaHa... I always get a laugh out of his responses to a lot of peoples posts, and sometimes at my own posts.. He has a wealth of information to offer and in general he always means well "Unless he's making fun of you" which we all can be accused of Hehe.

 

I don't mind the fact that Total Control threw in a Promo plug for his company...If I were working for a big name company and was a car guy and had my own car with my companies products on it or friends with my companies products on it and they worked great I would toss in free plugs as well as offer advice, because that's just how I am I want to help fellow car guys and if the company I work for happens to offer a great product I got no problem recommending it... Total Control has offered me advice before and it was sound.

 

Now to address some of the things I have read here and to give the OP even more info to roll around in his head I will contribute the info below.

 

My good friend and I are both going through the Suspension upgrade gambit on both of our 69's as well.

He wants more of a Track style suspension and I want smooth ride with the ability to handle well but not full blown track suspension.

Both of our cars were pretty much set up the same way for a while, and we have begun to move further apart as the weeks go on and we make changes, but here is my take on both of the cars in terms of handling, ride quality and parts.

 

1. My car was set up with 4.5 leaf reverse eye springs in the rear and KYB Gas Adjust shocks, Caltracs, and rubber bushings in the rear spring eyes. The front consisted of 550lb coils,Shelby Drop, KYB Shocks, 1-1/8" Sway bar with eurathane bushings, Stock Moog Upper and lower control arms and a set of roller spring perches.

 

Tires to begin with were 245/35/20's on all 4 corners.

Simply swapping to 245/40/17's in the front and 275/40/18's in the rear helped soften the ride up considerably but the car did not handle as precise, partially because of the type tire and the sidewall differences.

I then swapped to a set of Koni Shocks in the front and Rancho adjustable shocks in the rear, and this smoothed out the ride a bit more and make the car feel more stable when cornering and helped reduce the floating front end feeling at highway speeds over 85mph.

I added a rear sway bar which I have since removed because it wouldn't work right due to the low ride height.

 

Next week we are adding Baer Tracker tie rod ends, Roller Lower Control arms, and relocating the roller perches down 1" lower on the upper control arm.

Upper roller control arms are in the works as well.

 

At this point my suspension will pretty much be at the Max limits of what you can do with Factory style parts and should yield exactly what I am looking for in terms of ride quality and handling.

 

Now I would like to offer up my opinion of what I think would work well for the OP based on what I see his wants to be, the info hes provided, and his budget.

 

1. Skip the coil over system - IMHO you don't need it for what you want

 

2. Invest in a Good Set of Shocks on all 4 corners. "Koni Classics, or any other good adjustable shock"

 

3. Do the Shelby Drop... its cheap and easy and will yield good results and wont lower the car more than 1/2" or so

 

4. Call John at Opentracker racing and Order a set of Roller Perches and whatever coil spring he recommends to meet your needs. "If you want the car lower let John know so he can get you the right spring.

 

5. Install the Perches, Springs, and shocks and then go drive it and see how it feels...

 

6. Install Sub Frame Connectors.. "This will firm the car up a Lot and you will get a lot of opinions on what people like" I chose Tin Man connectors, but some folks prefer Global West etc...

 

7. Rear Springs depending on the ride height can range from Reverse eye to standard eye. The reverse will get your car pretty damn low, trust me on this one its what I run now and while it looks good and handles good ground clearance sux.

 

8. Install a set of Caltracs - These will help all the way around, cornering, braking, and if you preload them 1 turn they will actually firm up the ride a tad and according to Calvert Racing this is Ok to do.

 

Remember you have a budget and if you want to stay with Stock style suspension there is a lot you can do that will keep you in your budget and get you the results you want....Keep in mind it will never ride like a new car unless you spend a fortune on it and even then you will likely sacrifice one thing to get another

[shaun071 62]

Next week we are adding Baer Tracker tie rod ends, Roller Lower Control arms, and relocating the roller perches down 1" lower on the upper control arm.

Upper roller control arms are in the works as well.

 

Mike. What are the advantages of moving the spring perch? I've never heard of this being done before

 

Thanks Shaun

[69FB 12]

I really enjoyed this read and all the great advice.  I have been researching suspension upgrades for several years while my car has been worked on.  I have a friend that has a 67 Shelby Convertible clone that runs a 03-04 Cobra motor with a Griggs suspension.  Great ride and a lot of fun on the track.  He is now building a Bullitt clone with the TCP equipment and I have been thinking about going with their stuff for the quality and price.  I just did not know about all the new products they had over a basic coilover suspension.  My plans are to eventually go with a newer Coyote engine so the new subframe clip sounds like it might work for me.  

 

Great information on this thread and I wish everyone the best with their prospective builds.

[barnett468 418]

I really enjoyed this read and all the great advice.  I have been researching suspension upgrades for several years while my car has been worked on.  I have a friend that has a 67 Shelby Convertible clone that runs a 03-04 Cobra motor with a Griggs suspension.  Great ride and a lot of fun on the track.  He is now building a Bullitt clone with the TCP equipment and I have been thinking about going with their stuff for the quality and price.  I just did not know about all the new products they had over a basic coilover suspension.  My plans are to eventually go with a newer Coyote engine so the new subframe clip sounds like it might work for me.  

 

Great information on this thread and I wish everyone the best with their prospective builds.

yes, the complete clip will allow you to remove the shock towers making more room for the engine.

 

i would install a kenne belle blower if i installed a coyote engine.

 

.

[MikeStang 247]

Shaun, we found this tid bit of info on Opentracker's site somewhere and decided to try it for a few reasons.

With the car as low as it is you had to really push the shocks over pretty hard to make them line up enough to get them bolted into the tower caps... moving the perch down an inch on the arms fixed this problem and made them fall dead center.

I believe Johns site also said it would help the working angle if I recall.

[shaun071 62]

Thanks Mike.

[nickjames138 15]

This is an awesome thread! I'm looking to upgrade my suspension as well. I just bought my car a year ago and noticed I have a sway bar. The upper and lower looks fairly new (not sure what brand). My buddy cut the springs to lower it, but I have a new set of springs from Mustangs Unlimited. I also have new KYB Gas-A-Just shocks. I have 18" Torque Thrust II's on low pro Nitto's. 

 

So, 3 major issues when I drive the grooves in the road pull my car really hard. When I'm on the freeway and I'm going around a corners it gets a bit dicey if you know what i mean. Last issue is I have manual steering and I've heard power steering boxes always leak. Oh and the front of my car squeaks really loud when I drive it. Which I'm sure is the bushings right? 

 

So, what should I buy? Should I just get new upper and lowers from Moog to make sure I have the best? What do I need to convert to power steering? I know I'll definitely need all new polyurethane bushings and a spring perch/saddle. I'll need to do the shelby drop. 

 

Thanks for all the help guys! 

[bryonbush 85]

i bought new lower arms and ball joints for the uppers. i then did the tie rods, added a 1" sway bar, and export brace. im also running koni street shocks. im pretty impressed with how it handles. before i did the tie rods and ball joints, it was all over the place. i just replaced my factory steering with the borgeson and while it's nice, i have to say that i wouldn't use them again. im sure going to roller bearings in the control arms would be a little better, but im happy and i didn't spend 5K on suspension.

[MikeStang 247]

Get a set of Johns Roller Lower Control Arms and if you can afford it spring for roller uppers as well.

 

I have run into the problem of my sway bar hitting the frame rails because the car is lowered so much Lol... Gonna get some shorter end links and see if that will help out

[Silverjade 35]

Some potentially useless advice;

 

Before you spend a whole lot go for an alignment to either factory specs or what some of the more experienced guys on here say.

 

When I first drove my 69 after paint and reassembly, it drove like it was possessed and I am not kidding. It literally drove like one of those cars they use to teach the kids about drunk driving :)

 

The steering would not recenter properly and everything I read said power booster out, sticking valve, etc. Pump not up to snuff. Internet consensus was to overhaul steering system.

 

 

Searching for a simpler solution, instead I took it to the local alignment expert and the adjustments during the alignment process solved everything. 

That was 20 years ago. Still drives great.

 

My 2 cents  JIM

[SM69Mach 68]

This is an awesome thread! I'm looking to upgrade my suspension as well. I just bought my car a year ago and noticed I have a sway bar. The upper and lower looks fairly new (not sure what brand). My buddy cut the springs to lower it, but I have a new set of springs from Mustangs Unlimited. I also have new KYB Gas-A-Just shocks. I have 18" Torque Thrust II's on low pro Nitto's. 

 

So, 3 major issues when I drive the grooves in the road pull my car really hard. When I'm on the freeway and I'm going around a corners it gets a bit dicey if you know what i mean. Last issue is I have manual steering and I've heard power steering boxes always leak. Oh and the front of my car squeaks really loud when I drive it. Which I'm sure is the bushings right? 

 

So, what should I buy? Should I just get new upper and lowers from Moog to make sure I have the best? What do I need to convert to power steering? I know I'll definitely need all new polyurethane bushings and a spring perch/saddle. I'll need to do the shelby drop. 

 

Thanks for all the help guys! 

Nick, 

 

I said it earlier in the thread and will say it again.  I would call a couple of places and talk options with them with what you are looking to do and how you drive the car, with how it is already set up.  I have never bought anything from Open tracker, but always hear great things about them.  I did however buy my suspension set up from Shaun at Street or Track.  We talked multiple times and he gave me several options to pick from with no pressure at all to buy from him.  In the end, I did fork out the money for the coil over set up and power rack and pinion, but my car has never driven and handled better.  My car was similar to yours.  I had the newer spec alignment done, but it would walk terribly on roads, hit the brakes and it would shoot one way or the other, and the steering box was crap, with larger tires, big block and no power, I hated it.  

 

Since the upgrade, the Unisteer PS has great feel, no header clearance issues, and the ride is great.  I have no noise from the suspension, it is nice and tight and doesn't beat the crap out of me like my old set up did over a small bump.  Best of all I am not nervous about hitting the brakes and the car diving off into one direction.  I am not saying that you have to get the coil overs to accomplish that, but for the options that I was looking at it was not that much more to get into, and it was what I really wanted. 

 

Lots of options out there so good luck.

 

Scott 

[nickjames138 15]

Thanks for all the advice. My car actually handles pretty good compared to your stories. I have no problem when hitting the brakes. Only thing that really bothers me is the floating and swaying feeling when I take curves on the freeway. It handles them well, but I have that feeling that I may lose my car. Then, next two issues that I can live with but would rather not, is grooves pulling my car (there are a lot in Los Angeles) and manual steering.

 

I've heard good and not the best things about borgeson ps. I've heard a rack could be a waste of money.