1970 Convertible Restoration

[Vicfreg 773]

Installed my black powder coated mirrors today.

 

[Vicfreg 773]

Some more pictures I forgot to post earlier
 

[Mike65 475]

WOW! Vic the Mustang looks awesome. 

[Vicfreg 773]

Got all my front powder, coated, trim install, and also my powder coated custom grill.
Next is to install the headlight buckets and headlights

 

[RPM 1,190]

Nice progress. I don't know about the 70s with aftermarket lights, but the 69 lights are a whole lot easier to install with the fender extensions removed. I know it's a little too late for that. 

 

[Ridge Runner 1,113]

They are both actually fairly easy to install if you have the spring tool ,its pretty much a hook on the end of a screwdriver ,reach in ,hook the spring and pull until it locks into the trim ring . I made one from a small philips screw driver but you can buy one at the auto parts store 

[Vicfreg 773]

Thanks for the info

’69 is the only year with the trim ring spring attachment.

’70 has the spring hooked to the fender extension on one end, and a small hole on the headlight bucket on the other

Yes, spring tool is the way to go, I need to find mine or make one.

Also have a damaged spring retainer piece in the fender extension that I need to fix first

Will post pics as I get into it

Vic

[Vicfreg 773]

Mini project every day, installed my shaker trim ring.

 

[Vicfreg 773]

Putting my headlights in, these are black, 7 inch LED motorcycle headlights.  The horizontal bar is a white LED.  I have that connected to my fog light switch, instead of using it as a DRL.
This way I can run in the early evening with just the white horizontal LED on, and no parking lot or headlights.  Should look pretty cool.

 

[Vicfreg 773]

This is probably one of the best $6.29 I ever spent.
It makes putting the headlights bring in a piece of cake. No more needle nose, pliers, and no more breaking off the tab because you’re pulling too hard.

 

[RPM 1,190]

Everybody needs one. 

[Ridge Runner 1,113]

Oh oh ,i has one ! Haha not as fancy as the store bought thingy but it works ,if you ever had a pair of pointed nose pliers go flying past your nose ,you know you need one too!

[Mike65 475]

14 hours ago, Ridge Runner said:

Oh oh ,i has one ! Haha not as fancy as the store bought thingy but it works ,if you ever had a pair of pointed nose pliers go flying past your nose ,you know you need one too!

I have one of those too, I was wondering what they are for. Couldn't you use the hook end of the drum brake spring install tool?

Amazon.com: ABN Drum Brake Shoe Return Spring Install & Remove Dual-End Pliers Installer & Remover Tool for Removal and Installation : Automotive

 

[Vicfreg 773]

Yeah, definitely avoids flying objects using this hook compared to the needle nose pliers…

They’re actually designed for motorcycle exhaust Springs….

 

 

[Ridge Runner 1,113]

3 hours ago, Mike65 said:

I have one of those too, I was wondering what they are for. Couldn't you use the hook end of the drum brake spring install tool?

Amazon.com: ABN Drum Brake Shoe Return Spring Install & Remove Dual-End Pliers Installer & Remover Tool for Removal and Installation : Automotive

 

Its fairly tight between the can and the bucket ,that is why i used a thin phillip screw driver to make this one 

[Vicfreg 773]

Yes, it’s a tight squeeze around the headlight, and the brake  tool is pretty big and you could easily bang it off of something while your fooling with the spring

[Vicfreg 773]

Quick note about using powder-coat/painted parts that are relied on for chassis grounding to complete lighting and other electrical circuits.

I had to add a separate ground wire to my parking/turn signal lights that mount to the front bumper.

The bumper is powder-coated, and the parking light housings are painted in black epoxy. My screws are also coated black.

When I tested the lights, one side was very dim.  The other side flickered.

Ground wire fixed the issue so both sides have a consistent level of illumination.

 

 

[EastYorkStang 63]

Looking forward to seeing it finished. You're going great !

[Rich Ackermann 174]

21 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

Quick note about using powder-coat/painted parts that are relied on for chassis grounding to complete lighting and other electrical circuits.

I had to add a separate ground wire to my parking/turn signal lights that mount to the front bumper.

The bumper is powder-coated, and the parking light housings are painted in black epoxy. My screws are also coated black.

When I tested the lights, one side was very dim.  The other side flickered.

Ground wire fixed the issue so both sides have a consistent level of illumination.

 

 

Hi Vic,  I have been following your build project for a long time, but its been a while since I visited the site, or posted anything. Your Electrical issue is a common problem with the 1970 model year (only), powder coating or not. The reason is that the parking lights and directional signals, which all share the same circuit and same bulbs (with the except of the turn signals in the standard Mach 1 hood), Ford, probably to reduce cost, went from a three wire to a two wire configuration on this circuit. The Ford electrical engineers, got creative and alternated the current across the two wire system. Essentially, on a 1970 model, the ground for each bulb is in series and not in parallel like it was before and after the 1970 model year, which a use a three wire parallel ground system, with the third wire being ground wire. What the two system does is sends 12v positive thru one wire and seeks ground thru the other and then reverses the positive and negative signal. In order to find ground, the system must pass thru each bulb (in series) on it's circuit until it does. Typically ground is found in the turn signal hood ground or under the dash. This passing thru each bulb becomes a problem when a bulb filament or the bulb fixture is failing. Finding the offending bulb can be frustrating. It's like find that one little burned out bulb on that string of 50 bulbs not lighting on the Christmas tree. Ford after seeing the error in their ways, switch back to a three wire  in 1971. 

By you adding a ground wire at the bulb fixture to the chassis or fixture housing, you essentially gave the system another place to find ground. You put part of the ground system back to parallel, where the system can fin ground, in some cases, without having to pass thru a bulb to get there.

When I restored my 1970, I added a thirds wire  for ground to each light fixture or I replace the fixture with the equivalent fixture from the 1969 model year which was designed with the third wire for ground. So my 70 Mach 1 has a 1969 valence and front and side three wire parking/turn signal light fixtures.

The third attachment, I don't know created it, but it was very helpful to me when I was chasing electrical gremilins.

[Vicfreg 773]

Hey Rich. Good to hear from you, hope all is well with you.

Thanks for the insights. Great explanation about this wiring change that happened in 1970, I did not know that.

I realized this ground issue was there after I looked at the wiring on my '68 Mustang.  So I decided to do a quick check with test lead to ground that I ran to the screw hole in the '70 parking lamp bracket.  That solved the problem, so I just added the permanent ground wire.   

I have a set of those diagrams, someone posted them on the technical forum years ago. Very useful.  

Luckily, this was the only lighting area where I didn't have a dedicated ground.  I don't have side marker lights anymore, and my tail lights are LEDs that have a dedicated ground going to my trunk ground bus.

Your car is spectacular.   

I plan to take the '70 to Carlisle next year and a couple of Mustang National shows.  

Thanks

Vic

[Vicfreg 773]

Got my headlights installed.

Tested out the AAW wiring I installed three years ago, and fired the horizontal LEDs up. Works as designed.

 

[Rich Ackermann 174]

On 9/18/2023 at 7:34 PM, Vicfreg said:

Hey Rich. Good to hear from you, hope all is well with you.

Thanks for the insights. Great explanation about this wiring change that happened in 1970, I did not know that.

I realized this ground issue was there after I looked at the wiring on my '68 Mustang.  So I decided to do a quick check with test lead to ground that I ran to the screw hole in the '70 parking lamp bracket.  That solved the problem, so I just added the permanent ground wire.   

I have a set of those diagrams, someone posted them on the technical forum years ago. Very useful.  

Luckily, this was the only lighting area where I didn't have a dedicated ground.  I don't have side marker lights anymore, and my tail lights are LEDs that have a dedicated ground going to my trunk ground bus.

Your car is spectacular.   

I plan to take the '70 to Carlisle next year and a couple of Mustang National shows.  

Thanks

Vic

Hi Vic,  Your build is really looking fantastic! I really like those horizontal LED headlights.  Can you go thru MV inspection in N.C. without side markers on a car made after 1967? In Delaware, I don't you can, unless they overlook it. Anyway, the wife and I will be moving in six months to N.C., about 20 mins southwest of Raleigh. Waiting for the house to be built. I looking forward to living there, but not looking for to making the move. The amount of stuff we have accumulated over the years is just overwhelming. We can it all with us, so what to do?

I did not make Carlisle this year for the first time in more than six years. Next year we will have just relocated, so I am not sure if I will be ready to go, but I'll let you know next May.

Regards,

Rich

[Vicfreg 773]

Hey Rich.  I lived in the Raleigh area for around 8 years a while back, so very familiar with the area.  If you need any info, let me know. 

As far as offloading the stuff, if the new house is smaller and doesn't have the room, consider putting all of your extra stuff into a POD, and have that delivered to a U-Store-It place.  Then you can unload and sort it out later.

No inspection in NC for any cars over 25 years old.  In fact, many counties, like the one I live in, are exempt from even emissions inspection for new cars.

I am about 2 hours and 15 minutes from Raleigh plus or minus depending where you live.   Southwest near Apex, Holley Springs, or Fuquay is a good spot, if that is where you are

[Vicfreg 773]

Nearly finished on the outside.  Just need to install my door handles.

Got my convertible rear trim on.  Also installed my shaker assembly.  It is an aftermarket item, so a few tweaks and it fits pretty well.

 

[Rich Ackermann 174]

33 minutes ago, Vicfreg said:

Hey Rich.  I lived in the Raleigh area for around 8 years a while back, so very familiar with the area.  If you need any info, let me know. 

As far as offloading the stuff, if the new house is smaller and doesn't have the room, consider putting all of your extra stuff into a POD, and have that delivered to a U-Store-It place.  Then you can unload and sort it out later.

No inspection in NC for any cars over 25 years old.  In fact, many counties, like the one I live in, are exempt from even emissions inspection for new cars.

I am about 2 hours and 15 minutes from Raleigh plus or minus depending where you live.   Southwest near Apex, Holley Springs, or Fuquay is a good spot, if that is where you are

Hi Vic,  Thanks for moving tips. We given away a bunch of furniture to friends and family who wanted it. We signed up with a Estate Sale company and they are going to sell or dispose of what we are not bringing, but even with that I have a basement full of stuff, the two cars, and all my tools, and extra car parts to store for about 3-4 months. Any suggestions on short term car storage? 

We are moving to a retirement community that just open up for lot sales off of Rt64, next to the Jordan Lakes state park (I think it is call) in a old historic town called Pittsboro. We will be near three of our grandchildren in the Apex area. We will be able to see them more often without having to make a 6 hour drive from DE, which makes my wife very happy.

Regards,

RIch