RPM 1,190 Report post Posted November 5, 2013 I think the cowl/firewall tube bracing is an excellent idea, and really needed with the export brace. Especially so since all those panels are around 19ga. I bet you're loving those clecos by now. Nice work, as usual. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted November 5, 2013 I wonder if you couldn't put bracing inside the side cowl panels to beef it up and help transfer loads from the cowl to the rockers? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted November 5, 2013 I wonder if you couldn't put bracing inside the side cowl panels to beef it up and help transfer loads from the cowl to the rockers? Oh I'm going there, much like the example from SN65.com http://www.sn65.com/Fire%20&%20Ice%20unibody%20reinforcement.htm Pretty much done with "stage 1", and starting "stage 2". They are beefing up an earlier model so some of the firewall to A pillar bracing on my project will be different. I am attempting to keep the fresh air vent functional, and still transfer loads from the cowl to the rockers and A pillars. If you look, I have pre-notched the upper part of my cowl flange, and drilled the leading edge of the lower cowl (or whatever it should be called), getting them ready for some 1" square .120" tube. All of this is getting tied into the shock tower as well. Gona be fun! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RogerC 136 Report post Posted November 5, 2013 Similar to what I'm doing. Right vertical post, same on left side. Will be running a curved round tube between them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted November 5, 2013 I tried to copy your drawing buening... didn't have a ton of time, but ... I have the brace that will go diagonally bent and trimmed, at least for the starting point, but not ready to go in. Don't know if I'll run a tube along the top of the rocker, seems a little redundant, but might help. I'll get back to work later this week. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted November 7, 2013 Took a semi educated guess of where this tube would go through the lower cowl support, I'm proud to say I was on target. Compound miters on parts where you can't measure too good can screw up your day. I have to do some notching of the lips around the access holes, and trim this tube to fit, but not bad for 30 min. of "what if I..." type of fitting. I bent two of these tubes at work, so the other side should work as well. Too bad all of this will be hidden, I like the way it is taking shape. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 476 Report post Posted November 8, 2013 Very nice work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted November 13, 2013 Been busy with everything else than what I "should" be doing. I have piddled a few times, and have gotten a little farther. I am spending way too much time thinking about this mod and not doing it. Could be the fact I do not want to destroy this new cowl, and have to undo a bunch of work. Did a little notching this afternoon to see if it was possible to fit this lower cowl in with the braces in place. It fits, but once the other side is braced, like this side, it will not go in without some more modifications. Need to spray some parts so the lower A pillar will be able to go in, it is all fitted and punched, now if I can just get some momentum... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted November 17, 2013 Started putting things on this part of the build to stay. Welded in all the braces, along with plug welding the sheet metal to the braces, want to talk about stiffing things up, WOW! Checked the fit of the lower A pillar one more time, and clamped it in place. Got to frying this up as well. Once it cooled off, I started fitting the reinforcement plate that goes on the upper hinge area, to the actual A pillar. This is one of those parts that is not included in the lower piece, so if you are wanting to replace yours, be warned. I made templates of these parts before I removed the originals, and cut them out of the one piece seat riser ends. A little bending, and a small tab to be connected, it is just about ready to go on as well. Need to make a couple more parts for the top as well. There was not a whole lot left of the original parts to copy, so I have been looking at my Weld and Sealant manual in order to get an idea of what to make. Since I will be tying this into all the tubing as well, my parts will be somewhat different, but serve the same purpose. All nice and fried together, ready to be covered up soon... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grabber70Mach 107 Report post Posted November 17, 2013 Man things are really starting to come together on the car. Wish I had a part of the talent you have keep up the great work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted November 18, 2013 Made yet another piece of the puzzle this afternoon. I used yet another part of my discarded seat riser outer portion. Didn't have much to go by, so I made it up as I went along. A little grinding, hammering, and priming it was ready to become permanent. A little more grinding and sanding, ready for another section... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 476 Report post Posted November 19, 2013 Keep up the great work, its looking good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69gmachine 15 Report post Posted November 20, 2013 I looked back at the begining of this thread and didn't see what your plans are for drivetrain, suspension, etc. I'm assuming this car will actually see some hard driving on either a road course or at least an autocross course. Looks great so far. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted November 20, 2013 I looked back at the begining of this thread and didn't see what your plans are for drivetrain, suspension, etc. I'm assuming this car will actually see some hard driving on either a road course or at least an autocross course. Looks great so far. Thanks for the complements. Plans for the drivetrain are... 400+cid Windsor (9.5" block) -10.5 ish to 1 CR (pump gas) - 6500 RPM ish redline - 205 AFR heads - Ingleese 8 stack injection (gotta go there) TKO-600 (close ratio) - .82 OD - Liberty modified Suspension has been bought and fitted. Went SoT Sport valved, Front and 3-link rear, full floater 9", 13" x 1.25" front brakes, going to upgrade to the 13" x .810" E-brake rear (since Shaun went through the troble to make it) "Street Car" (yea, right...) want to thrash it on some Auto-X and hopefully an open track event at VIR every now and again. Will spend alot of time on the road, on some of my favorite twisty back roads. My thought process for this was to either buy a New Boss 302, or take the money that it would have cost and see what could be built with that sticker price. This won out, and is worth every minute and dollar spent this far! :punk: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
390mach1 49 Report post Posted November 20, 2013 I just talked to Shaun yesterday about what to do with my set-up! great guy, if you don't mind me asking how'd you like everything? how was fitment/product? I'm thinking of keeping left springs but going with the watts link in the rear. (can't swing full 3 link yet!) and how about front? you didn't go coil-overs? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted November 20, 2013 (edited) I just talked to Shaun yesterday about what to do with my set-up! great guy, if you don't mind me asking how'd you like everything? how was fitment/product? I'm thinking of keeping left springs but going with the watts link in the rear. (can't swing full 3 link yet!) and how about front? you didn't go coil-overs? I pretty much bought one or two of everything (package deal). NO complaints what so ever. Fantastic attention to detail, everything was packaged neatly, and fit without modifications. (except for the watts link which I modified for my mini tub) The watts link is the same for the coil over or the leaf spring, so when you get ready, you can put the 3-link in without having to buy an new frame, which is nice. First rate parts, first rate service. The front bolted up without any problems, came with the drill template for the Arnig drop, and instructions. You do have to drill six holes in the top of the shock tower in order for the new spring pearches to be bolted up, but easily reversable. The suspension was shown in my thread if you want to check it out, not too awfully far back. I will build another Mustang, and would deffinatly put Shawn's products on it as well (and I haven't even tried them out yet!) Page 16 + 19 Edited November 20, 2013 by latoracing more info Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted November 20, 2013 Are you planning on a roll cage? The A-pillars in these cars are pretty weak and the bracing you've done thus far may have minimal impact once it gets to the A-pillars. I wonder if a round or square tube couldn't be inserted into the A-pillar and tied to these braces and the roof? Or possibly structural foam, although I'm not up to speed on how beneficial it ends up being. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tgriffin91 27 Report post Posted November 20, 2013 Or just don't roll your car :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted November 20, 2013 Are you planning on a roll cage? The A-pillars in these cars are pretty weak and the bracing you've done thus far may have minimal impact once it gets to the A-pillars. I wonder if a round or square tube couldn't be inserted into the A-pillar and tied to these braces and the roof? Or possibly structural foam, although I'm not up to speed on how beneficial it ends up being. Once the cowl is repaired, and that area fairly well squared away a full cage is in the immediate future. I did attach the top tube to the A pillar in three places (decent size plate on the inside) I am looking at a 1.75" x .120" wall cage, since my car could easily go over 3K lbs when done. Attaching such structure to the roof and upper A pillar is a must in order to finish out the chassis. They rated the roof area over the driver's and passenger window the #1 area that could be reinforced and "...most sensitive structural member in regard to torsional deflection..." I am referancing http://www.sn65.com/Fire%20&%20Ice%20unibody%20reinforcement.htm once again in PHASE 3 of their chassis how to. I know for a "street car" this is overkill, but it shure is fun, and when you can do it yourself, why not? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted November 23, 2013 Had one more part to finish up on my A pillar tie in. You wouldn't believe what I formed this over, but it worked. Didn't know how it would work having to shrink the flange with just a 32oz ball peen hammer, but it works. Trimmed, punched, fitted, primed, bla bla bla...a little bit of welding and grinding Done. Gona start the other side, so I get to do all this again. Did take some time yesterday to do a little wire brushing on the inside of the firewall, since I was absolutely filthily from work (slap covered in polishing compound from making some stainless steel bases) I hate polishing, looks nice, but the amount of work it takes to get it looking like a mirror, YUCK!!!! No chrome on this build, trust me.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted November 29, 2013 Been lazy for a while. Not really, just getting up leaves and working on other peoples projects. (fixing to mini tub a Fox body coupe for a friend) I did however dismantle the pass. side lower A pillar, and outer cowl cover. This is how it looked before I got started, all nice an screwed up... Having done the other side, this side certainly came apart much quicker... Got all the little pieces removed, and most of the spot weld areas didn't need too much attention. Started mapping out the areas for the beef ups, and removing more parts to be remade, since they didn't come with my A pillars. I might be able to do something with it, maby... I did notice that where the torque box intersects the inner kick panel at the top, there is nothing structure about that connection what so ever. It is just tied into that flimsy piece of sheet metal. There is going to be some more bracing in that area, just to make me feel better. It does not interfere with the fresh air vent fitment. I also discovered that the cross tube I put in the driver's side renders the clip part on the fresh air vent useless, so it will need a little mod in order to work, oops. More work on rusty cars tomorrow... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted November 30, 2013 Started the day off doing some wire brushing, which got old quickly. Went ahead and got the notches created in the upper portion, and made the upper tube assy. Got it all welded together, for now, (not on the car) and continued with the diagonal fitting. It is quite true that once you have done something, it is easy to replicate, this side was a breeze. I marked this part from the other side piece, and rough cut it. Placing on the inside of the kick panel, I could verify the hole location before I screwed up something. Marked the location, and chain drilled out the rectangle opening. Removed the middle, then took a rotary file to the edges to get it all cleaned up. Once the hole was sized, the larger access holes in the kick panel had to be notched, along with one reinforcement area over the vent opening. A quick check of the lower A pillar (the lower reinforcement plate for the door hinge has to be trimmed as well) it looks like it will go together nicely. Clamped all these parts in place to verify all is well. More lower cowl mods are next, Chop, Chop, Chop... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangme428 33 Report post Posted December 1, 2013 wow... great work!!! chassis will be so stiff i bet she rides like a dream!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted December 3, 2013 Messing around after work today. Wanted to see if the lower cowl would still fit after the driver's side was semi welded up, I didn't. The lip on the outer edge kept it from sliding under the top tube, which I was afraid of. So, I chopped off the part that goes under the upper tube, now the lower cowl falls straight in. It should, there is nothing in the way now. Having this part all lined back up, I was able to mark the pass. side, it is going to get the same treatment. I will have to make another flange on the inside of the kick panel for this to weld to. Just a small detail, but something that could produce a leak if / when this area gets wet, that would be BAD! All this bracing will be hid under the top part of the cowl, along with the side panels. (no one will ever know?) Looking across the car, that top bar looks neat sorta sticking out, I like it. More trimming... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted December 3, 2013 Me thinks you missed your calling in life. Should a been a Mustang restorer. Oh wait, you are! Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
