latoracing 256 Report post Posted December 3, 2013 Me thinks you missed your calling in life. Should a been a Mustang restorer. Oh wait, you are! Bob Wish I could build cars for a living, but for now it is a great hobby. Maby some day when I hit the lottery (guess you have to play to win) and get customers, who knows... Thanx Bob! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted December 7, 2013 Made a flange for the cowl to sit in, since I cut both ends off. Using some hammers to form this part was interesting. Wish I had a shrinking and stretching machine, and this part would have been quite simple. It is all in place and solid welded across the top as well. Looks like my progress on this green car is going to get diverted to that green car in the background for awhile. I will get a little done here or there, but I owe my friend a mini tub job, so... :punk: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted December 10, 2013 Bunches of progress on his car, so I used this afternoon to service my welder, (since it ran out of wire) and weld in some braces on mine. Had all the tubing fitted, and pre primed ready to install. Drilled a few rosette weld holes in the kick panel to tie into the braces, clamped it all up and fried it in place. Ready for the lower A pillar. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted December 24, 2013 Sick of welding on that stupid galvanized, 24ga. tin can, took a break to work on my stuff for the day. Since I haven't messed with this thing in a while, it was nice to actually turn my welder back up to a normal setting. I had primed the inside of the lower A pillar a while back, just needed some holes punched in it, and it was ready to fry, which I did. I kninda cheated, and welded through the holes I made when I disassembled the old part, not as many hole to drill. Got all of the new part in place, ground down, and primed. I had made a template of the upper hinge area before I took it apart, had it laid out, ready to cut out. So, a little cutting, a bunch of chain drilling for the square holes, a little bend at the top, and it was ready to weld on. I made all these parts today, which was amazing since it took me forever on the driver's side. The filler plate in the door jam was easy, and got tacked in place. The top plate was fun, it didn't want to do as I wanted, but it finally gave in. All in place, a few tacks, and it was welding time again. Once fried in place, the small curved filler patch had to be made. Since I had done this before, it went real smooth. Trimmed, punched and ready to weld. It is all welded in place now. If I can, I am going to get this ground down in the morning, then back to the splatter fest of that Fox body project. Only one more side to do on that thing, and I won't have to work on it too much more. :clap::clap::clap::clap: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted December 24, 2013 Finished grinding all the welds down, and filling in a couple of pin holes, just needs some primer. Going to install the other two braces, then back to the Fox body (yuck). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FordRacing 10 Report post Posted December 24, 2013 Fantastic work, look forward to your updates. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted December 28, 2013 Out in the building, doing a little cleaning, and sweeping. Had a couple of areas I needed to grind some misc. welds off of. Got curious, and cut off a portion of my drip rail, was going to do this at a later time, but was just board. It doesn't take long to cut a little section off, and a few tacks to hold the assy. together as the next section is cut. A little welding, grinding and a few touch ups, it looks like this... That was fun, but back to the tasks at hand... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted December 29, 2013 Purdy work. I thought you'd have that seat riser center section in by now :( Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted December 29, 2013 Purdy work. I thought you'd have that seat riser center section in by now :( Bob I needed some seats to make shure they were in the right place before I made them stay. I ordered some Corbeau seats back in November, they went on back order, but they will be here at the end of next week. (hopefully) I am also contemplating the amount of roll cage I want to install as well, another reason the cowl is not welded in place along with the seat riser. Don't want to have to cut something apart. I'm slow, but it will get there... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted December 31, 2013 Ever wonder what all the components under the dash look like, without the cowl? Looking down on this mess of crunchy dash parts looks like you would not be able to fit another item under there. The lower cowl has that trough area where all the windshield wiper arms and motor are, it gets pretty close to the pedal mount. I have been hoping I would be able to keep the heater and the stock dash in tact, to a point, and have a neatly packaged cage in the car as well. I have just about everything in place, including the pedal support, and the column to see just how much more I can put under there. I didn't know if I was going to be able to run a dash bar, but... that piece of tube just might be about the right place to connect my down bars. I still need to put the gauge cluster in, along with the defrost vent, but it looks doable as a straight bar. The column support might need a little modifying, but it seems to be in the right place. I went by CV Products when I was out and about to pick up some seat belt floor mounts (five point harness stuff), so I have them ready to install soon. I also need to make a template for my E-brake handle, and get it ready to install. All this stuff is pending on seats, and how they fit. A few more parts to install, then it's Tubing Time. I would like a hydraulic tubing bender, but I need to be realistic. A half way decent setup is north of 2K, and I don't know if / when I will use a bender a whole lot, so I ordered a JD2 32 manual bender, along with a 1.75" die (5.5" C/L) 180 degree to play with. I bend all kinds of tubing at work, (CNC stuff) so I ought to be able to make something with it. Have a few more tools I will be ordering, but for now I should be ok. More mocking up to come Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted January 2, 2014 (edited) Santa was running a little late this year, some kind of elf strike or something. But it was worth the wait!!! Corbeau CR1 seats in black micro suede, with leather wear strips. These things are all kinds of comfy, I didn't want to get out of them. I ordered the double locking sliders, along with the 5th slot in the bottom of the seat (sub belt). A little extra, but might as well. I ordered them through SoT if anyone was wondering (plus give Shaun a plug) Sitting in them, with the stock seat risers, my head is about 2.5" from hitting the roof, which will be a little too close for me. I bet I would be all in a head liner. So these seat risers are fixing to get chopped, good thing I waited until these seats got here. As far as moving them back, I think I'll leave them in the stockish position, as it was about right with the seat all the way back. My parking brake handle will be just right installed behind the center reinforcement, easy access. I might do a separate thread for that, cause it is fairly easy, and real cheep. Now I just need to get some DOM tubing, and wait for my bender to arrive, lots to do now! Edited January 3, 2014 by latoracing Blurry Pic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 2, 2014 Ohhhh, those look real nice! And I was just razzing you on the seat riser hump. Happy happy. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted January 3, 2014 Ohhhh, those look real nice! And I was just razzing you on the seat riser hump. Happy happy. Bob Yea, but sometimes it pays to be a little slow! (lol) The pass side seat track didn't fit either, needs more room. Thanx for the compliments Bob, I appreciate them! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted January 7, 2014 there. I didn't know if I was going to be able to run a dash bar, but... that piece of tube just might be about the right place to connect my down bars. I still need to put the gauge cluster in, along with the defrost vent, but it looks doable as a straight bar. The column support might need a little modifying, but it seems to be in the right place. Mike, you may want to install the instrument cluster and clock panel to make sure it clears that bar. I'm not sure what your plans are for them, but it looks like the gauges may be in the way of that bar. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted January 7, 2014 Mike, you may want to install the instrument cluster and clock panel to make sure it clears that bar. I'm not sure what your plans are for them, but it looks like the gauges may be in the way of that bar. I have plans to do just that, along with the defrost vent before doing much else with it. Been designing a layout for the bars, as well as gussetts and the like. Joined Corner Carvers Forum so I can get informed on different designs. My bender came last Friday, so now I am gathering items to make a stand for it, and buy more tools for the home shop! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 7, 2014 I have plans to do just that, along with the defrost vent before doing much else with it. Been designing a layout for the bars, as well as gussetts and the like. Joined Corner Carvers Forum so I can get informed on different designs. My bender came last Friday, so now I am gathering items to make a stand for it, and buy more tools for the home shop! Good luck with that Corner Carver crowd. You better never ask a question that's been asked before, misspell a word, or use improper grammar. Tough crowd. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted January 7, 2014 Good luck with that Corner Carver crowd. You better never ask a question that's been asked before, misspell a word, or use improper grammar. Tough crowd. Bob :lol: Yeah they can be a bit harsh if its a newb question. If it is in regards to bracing, they may be a bit more lenient. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 7, 2014 As I think about it a bit, I'm sure you'll be fine with your education and hands on background. I was going to join until I found out I didn't have the "proper" email account.:001_rolleyes: Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted January 7, 2014 Good luck with that Corner Carver crowd. You better never ask a question that's been asked before, misspell a word, or use improper grammar. Tough crowd. Bob :lol: Yeah they can be a bit harsh if its a newb question. If it is in regards to bracing, they may be a bit more lenient. It was quite the ordeal to get "accepted" to the forum, trust me, it was the first time I read ALL the rules in the intro. I have spell check on my computer, I'm glad, 'cause I suck at spelling. I have yet to post, or not find information on a subject all ready posted. I do not want to get a bunch of infractions right off the bat. (ya'll can judge my grammar, I done did good) I have seen some cool ways of bracing "Nodes" (see, I done lernt sumfin). Something I am going to try is a "taco" style brace, instead of using another piece of tube to brace a corner. I have built dies at work to do similar shapes in flat steel, so that is going to be easy. I would love to take the roof skin off of this, but I really don't want to go there. I suppose I'll be cutting holes in my new floor to drop the cage down, to be able to weld the top. Oh the price you pay for mods. My stand is all but ready to weld. I'll get it fried up and powder coated in the next few days. The DOM tube should be here this week as well. This is going to be fun! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 7, 2014 Re the roll bar/cage, I first cringed when I saw it done with holes in the floor. But since a plate will be welded over it to support the hoop, is a pretty darn good idea. Before looking into it, I always wondered how they welded the top areas. You can weld back in the holes, don't know if that's covered anywhere. What size and mfg will you use on the cage/bar? Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted January 8, 2014 Re the roll bar/cage, I first cringed when I saw it done with holes in the floor. But since a plate will be welded over it to support the hoop, is a pretty darn good idea. Before looking into it, I always wondered how they welded the top areas. You can weld back in the holes, don't know if that's covered anywhere. What size and mfg will you use on the cage/bar? Bob I am ordering 60' of 1.75" x 0.120" wall DOM 1020 steel tubing. It is a "do it yourself kit" just have to do a bunch of measuring. This stuff is not cheap, at least not in bulk. I bet with the tubing, bender, and other tools in order to accomplish this, I will have well over $1,000.00 in it when I'm done. (the bender really doesn't count in the long run). At $3.45 a foot, I don't want to screw up to much tube. I think I am going to cut some holes aft of the rear torque boxes, and slide the entire cage to the rear, and drop it down. It should give more access to the front connections hidden by the lower inner cowl area. I think this might be "easier" than dropping it straight down, into the torque box lid. Once the top is fully welded, it can be slid back onto it's plates and the rest of the bars can be put back in place and welded, or at least that is the theory. I have never installed a full cage in anything. I have installed plenty of roll bars, so I do have a little knowledge. (or at least I hope so). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 8, 2014 $3.45 per foot is a great price for Dom! Each time you use the bender it'll lower that initial cost. My ex has a real nice $200k bender at her shop where I used to work, oh well... Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted January 8, 2014 $3.45 per foot is a great price for Dom! Each time you use the bender it'll lower that initial cost. My ex has a real nice $200k bender at her shop where I used to work, oh well... Bob We just got a new $150K bender at work, it is fun! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 8, 2014 Oh yes, they are fun! And cool to watch. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted January 10, 2014 Been working on a post for the JD2 bender that is still sitting in it's shipping box. I had some scrap plate, and some 4" square 0.125" wall tubing left over from a job way back when. I had cut all the parts the other day (wish I had an Iron Worker at the house) I made the base plate 12" square, 1/2" thick, just because. The Pariah cut that off like it wasn't there, then punched 4ea 1/2" holes. Machines are cool. You can buy one of their stands, but this is much more fun. They supply some huge 3/4" attachment hardware. I welded the nuts provided to the upper plate, so I wouldn't have to worry about loosing them later on. Haven't welded plate in a while, so I got to crank up the heat and run some beads Had to put some gussets on there, like it needed any. Gona get some textured black powder and coat it to match the bender. For now, it is sitting again. I did get a package from Travis at Formula 43 today. With the floater housing I am using, their wheel centers would not work with the back spacing I ordered. The axle retention plates are flush with the outside of the wheel. I made a new set of plates, along with a small fixture, and sent them to be engraved and powder coated to match the wheels. Had to see how they look I bolted a hub assy. to the wheel just so it would look neater. I like the fact that if this thing ever gets to go to a track of some sort, I don't have to worry about heat popping my center cap off. It would be very bad if it did come off. It looks even better up close Custom little touches make a huge difference. :punk: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
