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1970 Grabber Green Project

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Been slowly working on my floor, it could have been done if I hadn't gotten a visit from the FedUps guy today. After a semi long wait, THEY'RE HERE!!!!!!!!

 

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I am quite pleased with the way they turned out. It was cool to see the centers before they were coated, but this is MUCH cooler! The fronts look small compared to the rears, they are both quite huge.

 

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Had to stick one of the rears CAREFULLY under the car, just to get an idea on what it will look like.

 

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The wheel well is just about full. I would love to put some tires on these, but they would be harder than the floor when I actually get to drive this thing. So for now, just have to look at them, and pet them.

 

:punk:

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LOVE those rims!! Did the front fenders have flares? I forget

 

Nope, at least not yet. Going to attempt getting these fat things on the front without having to flare the fenders. They will have to be heavily rolled though!

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Didn't have to weld at work today, so this afternoon I spent most of it on my back, inverted welding. One hole at a time, clamping each area with a pair of 18R vice grips. (clamp, weld, unclamp, repeat...) It wasn't to bad.

 

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Once I got these all filled in, I worked on the upper side some more. I have all most all the structure areas welded up, maby a couple of places yet, but mostly the lighter sheet metal welds are left. I turn my welder up when doing the thicker parts, and make huge holes when I attempt the thinner parts. So I tack a bunch, and weld where it will work before resetting. I'm running .030" wire, a little thick for sheet metal, but it is versatile. And I weld quite hot. A few more hours and the floor pan will be done.

 

IMG_20130830_194938_zpsf5f86ddd.jpg

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Nice welds....I wish I had your talent

 

Thanx for all the kind words everyone.

 

I am fortunate enough to have a hobby that is similar to what I do for a living, so I get to practice ALOT. I didn't know that you could even drill metal when I got out of high school, much less know how to set up a welder. Anyone can do this, if they put their mind to it, and want to do it.

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Just about done filling in all those holes in my floor pan. Worked for just a little while this afternoon, but it is coming along.

 

Started looking at my soon to be cut up one piece seat riser, I think it will be next on the slightly modified list.

 

I want to get this cowl panel in, kinda looking forward to that install. At any rate, not much new to see, but once I chop this seat riser apart, there will be more pics. Hope I don't screw it up!!

 

:punk:

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I was able to get all the welding done on my floor pan the other day. I am so glad I went in this direction. I LOVE the way it turned out. So much neater than long pans, and a lot less weld finishing.

 

I have spent the last couple of nights fitting my seat risers. The "stock" ones are temp. screwed in place after trimming them to fit the new inner rockers. I left some material as I was removing the parts that didn't fit to make some tabs with. Not overly excited about how it turned out. Might make a few more to help beef up the riser to rocker attachment area.

 

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I worked on the center part of the equation last night, and attempted to lay out where I wanted to chop up this $150.00 convertible seat riser, it would be bad to screw this up. I got it ready to chop up, and removed the outer portion of the risers and stuck it in place to see if it was going to work. There is going to be a bunch of cutting and bending to get this to fit. If you want to see the difference between the two...

 

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All most an inch, this is a little work, but the extra head room will be worth it in the end.

 

Just a little info... the weld through primer Dynacorn is putting on their parts is not that great. This riser has been in my building for just a couple of months, and has rust spots all over it, and I haven't even touched it that much. Be aware if you are installing parts on your build to properly prime these, I bet it wouldn't take long before the new metal looks like the old junk that is being replaced.

 

:punk:

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I have been following you build for a while now. You are doing some real good work and seeing you getting it done inspires me to fix mine up as I have been taking a break. I can not wait to see the final product.

 

Thomas

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I am being bad, and not giving the proper attention to my build lately. It is Market season yet again, and it is consuming all my time and energy. I dabbled a little here and there with my center beef up. I keep removing material, and am liking the way it is starting to fit. I have trimmed the convertible riser to the inboard seat holes, and might have to trim just a little bit more. I think that I am going to get this part all trimmed in, and then wait to install all of it. I really want to get some seats bolted in place (aftermarket for shure) just to make shure of how it will feel. Driving around with your knees in your chin is not fun. I will get the pass. side trimmed up before moving on to the cowl install. I also need to figure out my parking brake mod as well. Better safe than sorry.

 

IMG_20130916_193725_zps6be946f4.jpg?t=1379374665

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You're doing some great work! You're welds look nice, it is evident just from the pictures that you have had some practice. What kind of machine do you recommend for a home hobbiest?

 

 

 

Thanks for the compliment.

 

I would by a Lincoln or Miller, there are alot of good welders out there, but I am partial to these. I would get a machine that is 220V for shure, and have a good flow meter for the shielding gas. The size of the welder will always be a compromise, but I would stay around 180 amps, just so you have a little bit of verisatillty, when you want to do something thicker. It might cost more, but it will last, and the parts are easier to get when you need them.

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Ever feel like you have opened a can of worms and you get to see all the yuck inside? Yea, this is how they look.

 

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Of all the parts that the factory worker missed, they made up for it under the apron bracket. There were only about eight or nine spot welds in a row, "thanks pal". It is quite crunchy, and it does help speed things up a little. Wonder why these things rust... no paint anywhere... duuuhhh...

 

The new cowl panel is in one piece, but not for long. There is no way I am going to attempt to weld the inner kick panel to the cowl floor through the vent holes, WOW! This is going to be a fun repair. The A pillar to cowl attachment points are just about gone, along with the outer portion on the lower A pillar. I had a vision of my driver's side door when I got some of this bent up, stupid mice. It will be OK, the doctor is fixin' to operate...

 

:punk:

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Dude you are an animal!! I have to admit, this is the first time I've ever even considered the factory missing a bunch of spot welds. Good tool to have in the back of my mind when I get into some of the bodywork on my car. What spacings do you use on the rosette welds, or does it vary?

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Weld spacing depends on where it is. For structure parts (rockers, torque boxes, frame rails, ect) I use a 3/8" drill bit, spaced anywhere from 1.25" to 1.75". I went over board on the floor pan to inner rocker and spaced them 1.25", way over kill. The lighter parts I usually go 1.5" to 2" with a 1/4" hole.

 

The weld and seam sealer manual gives all the "factory" weld locations and spacings used for the assy. line. I referance that when I have a question on how something was put together, like this cowl. It helps find all those hiden areas that give trouble when attempting to repair a component. It will also give a clue of what a missing part might look like (floor of this cowl for instance).

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