Ash's 69 R-code

[Ash 145]

Hi Ray, That's no worries at all. At least you didn't hurt yourself. Not the old ute though! Could have been much worse, could have been the Mustang.

 

I'm thinking about going to the Nostalgia Fest in Kurri next weekend on Sunday. The two other guys in town with Mustangs told me they were going if the weather was good. I've got the kids though so need to work out how to get there so nothing is set in concrete just yet but I am keen to tag along. What are you up to that day?

 

Plenty more to do mate, plenty more pics to come. I'll get it out for a drive with you one day!

[Ray 10]

Hey Ash, the nostalga fest sound like a good idea, I might tag along with you guys and I have my daughter that weekend so she would enjoy it too, I will contact you towards the end of the week...cheers

[Ash 145]

Sounds good Ray! I'll speak to Rick during the week, he has a 70 Mach 1, and see what their plans are. I know Jules is keen to come too but we will have 3 kids, maybe 4 if her son comes up for the weekend as well. We all wont fit in the 66, plus the two big kids usually go back to Newcastle by 2pm. Hopefully it isn't raining as well! But I'll figure it out and let you know.

[stangnet33 88]

Hey Ash, so I did a quick measurement for the back window for you. Just on the very bottom going left to right mine measures 43 11/16" panel to panel, not the mouldings. But I agree yours should very close. As for the way that the rear bottom quarters were done I would be having them done so as not to be obvious of being replaced just for the fact of the value of your car. It's not like its a basic stang. JMO

[Ash 145]

Hey stangnet, that's great! I got the same measurement so it is a great relief to know I am square and true at that point. Really appreciate you doing that for me, it helps a lot!

 

So you think I should remove that lower quarter replacement panel and replace with a butted joint and get it looking seamless?

[Ash 145]

Am getting more stripped off this thing, got to figure out how to remove the complete dash next. I've got some more photos but I think they may be on my other computer, I'll have to look later. I did get these though, my little mate helping me out. My dream come true to have little buddy so happy to be helping his Dad work on the Mustang!

 

 

[Mike65 476]

Ash, IIRC the dash top has to come off first then you could remove the l/s & r/s dash panels, then the metal lower dash. That is how I did it in my 69 Coupe.

Mike.

[Lemon Owner 11]

That pillar will need a little attention, hard to tell without the windscreen out. Be carefull using the sander with the windsreen uncovered as the sparks will melt themselves into the surface. Always keep glass covered even if you are only doing a little sanding.

[Ash 145]

The weld across that where the crack was isn't good. I'll have to try and cut it and see what other issues I'm dealing with.

 

I haven't used any power tools near it yet, for that reason you mentioned with the glass. I'm working on taking the dash out so I can remove the glass. So far all the sanding that I have done is just by hand.

[Ash 145]

Ash, IIRC the dash top has to come off first then you could remove the l/s & r/s dash panels, then the metal lower dash. That is how I did it in my 69 Coupe.

Mike.

 

Cheers Mike, just got the dash pad out. It was quite straight forward, managed to do it while I was on hold on the phone with an insurance company. Someone backed into my wife's car this morning quite hard. It was a 4x4 and their tow bar did some good damage. Just booked it in to have it assessed.

I'll try and the get the rest of the dash out later when I put the tools down for the day.

[Ash 145]

I got the cowl cover removed and wasn't looking too bad

 

 

 

But looking right under I found these which will need some attention

 

 

 

And on the drivers side an attempted patch, not sure how well is down. Looks like it was welded in from the under side. Will look closer once the dash is right out

 

 

I removed the drivers rear quarter window and the side scoop. Bit of surface rust under here and a few holes under the window glass/rubber.

 

This is looking up through the scoop

 

 

From inside the quarter up to the window bottom. Sorry for my face being there

 

 

 

And just behind the window/scoop

 

 

What do most do to treat this? Remove as much as possible I'm sure but are you putting epoxy or POR15 over it or something else?

[Ash 145]

I've got the dash out to this point now

 

 

Which enabled me to see inside this A-pillar a bit better Bit hard to photo though

 

Bottom hinge

 

 

 

Top hinge

 

 

I'm thinking it could have looked much worse. But I guess I'll know more once I start removing paint from the outside and see how deep it penetrates.

 

Nice clean dash pad though with some minor surface rust on the under side

 

 

 

 

The cluster, even though it should be a tach cluster but it's not, looks ok overall. It has a new circuit board (can't think of correct name if that is wrong sorry).

But I found a short. Any idea to what this circuit would be?

 

 

Edited March 19, 2012 by Ash

[Cornerstone 15]

Be carefull using the sander with the windsreen uncovered as the sparks will melt themselves into the surface. Always keep glass covered even if you are only doing a little sanding.

 

I learned this the hard way on my cobra kit. Do you think the little burn holes in the glass can be buffed out? I was using a grinder near it. When you slide your hand across the glass it feels a bit rough....bummer.:glare:

[70mstang 11]

Good to see that inside is not very bad and has good metal with just some surface rust.

 

Your dash looks like it has an after market dash pad cover on it, but looks like it's in good shape. I have one on mine and you can hardly tell it's a pad.

 

Looks like the fuel gauge, probably have metal touching the cluster frame & grounding out. They sell the printed circuit boards at any of the aftermarket suppliers.

[Lemon Owner 11]

I learned this the hard way on my cobra kit. Do you think the little burn holes in the glass can be buffed out? I was using a grinder near it. When you slide your hand across the glass it feels a bit rough....bummer.:glare:

 

Glass can be buffed but grinder sparks can penetrate quite deeply and it may be beyond repair. Usually replacement is cheaper than repair but it is worth looking into. But on the bright side at least now you know. Could be worse, I thought I was stopping the welding sparks going onto my side glass but some made it through. Ooops. Thing is unless you are really looking you can't notice it lol. But I know.

 

You have a little work to do there Ash but it is not too bad. The best way to get rid of that surface rust is to dip the entire car in acid. The reality is that is probably not possible. As I have said before I use fishoil etc. because it is transparent and never really dries. So it cuts of the oxygen to the surface rust but allows you to keep an eye on it. Oil is another good one but it can wash away with time.

 

They never treated the inner metal very well on these cars so all of them have surface rust on the inner panels and between the seams. As I said the trick is to cut off the supply of oxygen/air from the inside as well as out. This will markedly slow down the rust and leave your car around for many years to come.

[Ash 145]

Fuel gauge, cool. I'll look into it and see if I can trace it. But I'd really like to get the tacho dash back in. That would be ideal.

 

I'm certain it is an aftermarket cover on the pad too. It's in great condition so can't imagine it to be original. I'll just try and treat the open surface rust.

 

Sure have plenty of work ahead, Lemon Owner. Looking forward to it though!

Ok, cool. I just wasn't sure if doing the same to the open panel with the fishoil would be the best way as with the tricky to get to seams and internals. Thanks for that.

 

I also just removed the windscreen. You were right, it was pretty easy. The trickiest parts was lifting it out on my own. But I got it out safely. I just used an old steel string off my guitar to cut the silicon, worked well.

I also have a much better view of this right pillar now, I'll get some photos and put them up later on.

Edited March 20, 2012 by Ash

[Ash 145]

Windscreen out

 

 

Dash starting to look bare now

 

 

And the ugliness

 

 

 

 

The weld goes all the way around, is ugly, not well done and I have no idea why. I've had a look further down and I can't see any signs of further welds, I don't believe this is one end of a replacement.

 

The rest of the pillar looks to be pretty good

 

 

As does the drivers side

 

 

Bit of surface rust under the hood lining though

 

 

Can anyone tell me if there is meant to be a bush in the lower end of the steering column? I have full movement in mine as if the bush is completely missing

 

 

[Dangstang 14]

Your pillars look very similar to mine with the weld ,I found out the the roof had been replaced.

[70mstang 11]

Gret job getting the windscreen out!

 

On the end of the steering column is a rag joint. Link to NPD catalog:

 

http://shop.autocraftinvestments.com/products/3A525_1A-148815-0.html

 

Seeing the top view of the cowl now .. pay close attention to the drivers side where it looks like someone has replaced some rusted metal once already and may not have gotten it welded together. If it's what it looks like it'll let water run right down to your feet.

[SparkyGT 26]

the pillar crack may be where the roof meets the pillar and was joined at factory, might be im mixed up with my years though

[Ash 145]

Your pillars look very similar to mine with the weld ,I found out the the roof had been replaced.

 

I was thinking that as well but I can't see any other signs of welding other than this one spot. The other pillar doesn't appear to have any work done in this way.

 

Gret job getting the windscreen out!

 

On the end of the steering column is a rag joint. Link to NPD catalog:

 

http://shop.autocraftinvestments.com/products/3A525_1A-148815-0.html

 

Seeing the top view of the cowl now .. pay close attention to the drivers side where it looks like someone has replaced some rusted metal once already and may not have gotten it welded together. If it's what it looks like it'll let water run right down to your feet.

 

Cheers 70mstang! I have the glass wrapped up but I need to find a good place to store it now out of the way. Hopefully the rear glass will be just as easy.

 

That joint on my steering box is actually ok. It was the actual shaft movement inside the steering column I was concerned about. The steering wheel end feels great. But the the steering box end has full movement of the shaft. If you look at those two photos, you can see in one it is right down and the other I lifted it up. I thought there might of meant to be a bush in there? I can remember similar set-ups from other cars having a bush.

 

I know that cowl doesn't leak at the moment, the car has been out in the rain with no signs of a damp interior. But who knows how long that would last with the looks of that patch and the rusty spot on the other side. I'll be sure to fix this and test it before I seal it all up again.

 

the pillar crack may be where the roof meets the pillar and was joined at factory, might be im mixed up with my years though

 

Maybe he just re-welded the original joint? The glass, the inside covers and the door glass all appear to align well so I don't think it is out. I just think the weld is poor.

[70mstang 11]

I see now =) Ya know it may be that the collapsable part of the steering column is pushed up. I had to completely collapse mine to swap out to the Borgeson unit. It does look that there shold be a bushing there but can't recall myself. Mine's all pushed up inside now.

 

Once it's connected to the steering box, it won't be able to bounce around though =)

[Ash 145]

You're right, I didn't notice it when it was all bolted up. It just didn't feel right at all when I removed the box. I'll see if I can dismantle the column further and see what is going on in there.

[Lemon Owner 11]

It looks like the pillar seam has rusted out and they did a dodgy repair. Probably rusted out around the screen due to a leak. Looks to be a pretty easy fix though. However as I said you have your work cut out for you with that cowl, but it could have been much worse.

 

I think the bottom of the column does not have a bush, just the top. But it has been some time since I have changed out steering columns. I would not think it would need it due to alignment issues and the collapsible column.

[Ash 145]

That's the way it is looking, which really is a bit of a relief. All that is needed is to repair a repair, and not replace the whole damn thing. Seems to be the thing with this car, like you said, going to take lots of work but things really could be much worse.

 

The column reminded me of an XF column, similar set-up and similar box. I pulled one of those apart a few years back and modified it to fit the later EF/EL steering wheel to. It had a bush at the base which was why I got suss on this one feeling like it was missing. If that is the way the are, without one, then the set-up is looking pretty good overall.