Ray

Is it possible to post some pictures of the stub tech spindles when you install them, also what offset will you be using on your front wheels, I am curious to see how the steering arm clears the wheel.....Thanks...Ray

Hey Ash, looking good mate. Who is the engineer you are using?

We just got a horse back from being broken in, we bred it ourselves. What sort of horse did she get?

Nah mate, still doing jobs around the house, just acquiring parts and getting prepared. When I drove to your place I had done the drop and I had also cut 1 1/2 coils off the front springs and had 1 1/2" lowering blocks in the rear. Occasionally it would scrape going into bad driveways but that was manageable. Only issue I had was right side rear wheel scrapped on the guard on bad bumps, diff must have been off center.

Hi Ash, I did the Shelby drop on my S code when I still had it and it changed the ride height very little, maybe 5 mm, what it does is change the camber curve so as the car turns and the suspension compresses the negative camber increases, keeping the tyre contact patch square on the road. If you move the top arm out with spacers you would give it positive camber, a big no no. Ray

Hey Ash, how are you mate. Got myself another Mustang but lost your email address (new computer)Email me a message so I can get back to you. Thanks Ray

Hi TX427Cobra, I for one would love to see progress photos when you get a chance

The way this guy has done the drop doesn't seem to have affected door gaps etc but it sure looks good.

If you have a look at a Real Trans am race car from back in the day, like Allan Moffats, you will see how much lower they sat at the front. A lot is due to suspension mods but a significant amount is due to this nose drop. On a road car you can only lower the suspension so far before you start hitting speed humps etc so I thought this might be way to get that low stance without hitting everything. I might try this on my next project.

So Is anyone aware of alternative methods???

Thanks for the reply's guys, yes it is the pie shaped cut in the inner fenders I was refering to. I have seen it done once and in his blog he says there are more than one way to do it so I wanted to look at alternatives although the way this has been done looks pretty good, here is a link if anyone wants a look at what I am talking about. https://1970mustangvintageracer.shutterfly.com/551

Has anyone on this forum carried out the 1" nose drop that the trans am race cars in 69/70 had. I am curious to see how it was done. Thanks

Hi everyone, some time ago I saw a thread (cant remember where) that had a bolt in kit pictured that eliminated the strut rod on early Mustangs, the kit consisted of a plate that bolted under the front radiator support and had mounting points for 1 piece lower control arms, the new arm pivoted at the front near the strut rod mount position and also in the original control arm position, can anyone help me relocate this product? Thanks

I have a 69 s code 390 with c6 auto, 3.00 to 1 rear, edelbrock streetmaster manifold and holley 750 with vac secondaries and electric choke. The rest of the engine/drivetrain is stock and this combination works fine except for a small stumble off idle, the stumble was not there when I was using the original cast iron manifold so I am sure this is a problem caused by the much larger plenum in the manifold. I have no doubt the stumble can be tuned out by playing around with the power valve or accelerator pump cam. I am running a 1" aluminium spacer on top of the manifold plenum but I get a bit of heat soak/hard to start after a long drive but this also happened on the old manifold, I am going to fit a 1" phenolic spacer and see if this helps, anyway good luck with whatever combo you try.

Hey Ash, the nostalga fest sound like a good idea, I might tag along with you guys and I have my daughter that weekend so she would enjoy it too, I will contact you towards the end of the week...cheers