Ash's 69 R-code

[Lemon Owner 11]

I think you have a pretty solid car there. Yea it hasn't had the best life but I have seen far worse. I think it just needs someone to pay it a little attention and not run it into the ground.

 

Are you going to paint the car yourself? Have you done other cars before?

[Ash 145]

I'm going to paint it. I've done a bit over the years and I spray quite a bit of timber. But I haven't done full car respray. I have a pretty good set-up here at home with a lot of tools/machinery but am going to work on a booth arrangement. I have the shed space and it will be something that will be used for more then just this car. In fact in the coming weeks I need to spray 9 metres of solid timber kitchen bench tops, am wishing I had it already set-up.

There's no way I could afford to pay a shop to do it and there's only one way to learn. About the only thing I'm looking at getting myself is a new DA with the self watering feature.

[Lemon Owner 11]

You sound a bit like myself. I had done a little of this and that but never completed a full car until recently.

 

The best advice I can give you for painting is use two pack. Don't spray it in acrylic not matter what anyone says. Two pack is the shit! It might give you cancer in 20 years but boy it makes painting so much easier. lol

 

Also you paint the car in 3 stages so to speak.

 

Stage one. Have all the rust cut out and bondo (bog to us aussies) completed. All dents etc. smoothed out. Bare metal must be sprayed in etch primer. But bog must be applied to bare metal. All surfaces prepped to 120 grit DRY sandpaper including the bog. Then spray your first 3 coats of primer/filler in 2K.

 

Stage two. Block the entire car back with a 240 DRY sandpaper. You want to cut it back pretty harshly with this so that the primer fills in any irregularities in the surface and will also fill in smaller dents. But you don't want thick areas of paint if it is not needed. Then another 3 coats of primer filler.

 

Stage three. Go around the car with spot filler and look for any holes or small irregularities. Then block the car back in a 400 or 600 grit (depending on how smooth your painting is ;) Wet an Dry. Do not cut it back harshly. You just want to smooth it out for the top coat and fill in the irregularities a little more. You don't want it to cut through the last primer surface. You do not want to wet the bog or have any bare metal showing. Now it is ready for the top coat. Light colours need 3 coat of 2K colour, darker 2 coats. But if you want a super smooth finish put an extra coat on so you can rub it back further.

 

Last stage. Rub the car down with 1500, then 2000. Use a dedicated finishing block when rubbing back. Then buff the car with a good quality two pack cutting compound and that's it!

 

When you follow this you don't tend to spend time going back and forth fixing mistakes. It just makes life easy and you have a clear job to do. Another thing I recommend is don't try to paint your first car like it is going to win Street Machine of the Year. It is better to get it finished and looking great than to loose interest half way through because your trying to achieve an unachieveable goal.

[Ash 145]

You're right about acrylic being shit. I recently did a quick job on a front Falcon bumper. I say quick as its sole purpose was to get the car back on the road for my wife and to look ok. Pretty much did it in a day with a bit of cutting the following day but it got her back on the road.

It was a good thing I didn't waste too much time on it as it wasn't long until she removed some of that paint.

 

I not long back did a refurbish on a couple of sailing boats, totally new to me but I had a go. The second one the owner wanted 2k paint on the hull and the deck. He told me these cop a flogging on the water and he wanted it tough. The 2k was so much nicer to spray and work with. The product he used though was extremely hard, I understand in theory why he brought it, it was an industrial paint but it was incredibly hard to sand. I don't think it was the right choice for the job. This is is here anyway.

 

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.244206728948898.52860.173630792673159&type=3

 

I'm going to use SPI paint products which are 2k. I'm at the moment just sorting out how to get them from the US. Just waiting on a reply from my exporter before I place an order.

I've been reading lots on their forum and another and again learning lots. I do have a lot of patience and I know when to step back and leave it for another day. Hopefully following everyone's procedures and tips I should get a good result. I'm not in a rush which I think will be a huge help to the outcome, that seems to be many peoples downfall.

 

This is the SPI site if you haven't seen it.

 

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/index.htm

 

And their forum

 

http://www.spiuserforum.com/forum.php

 

They also pretty much outline the paint procedure like you just did

 

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect%20paint.htm

[Lemon Owner 11]

I wouldn't say acrylic is shit it just it is very reactive. Because there is so much solvent it does weird bubbling and blistering to different surfaces and it doesn't like silicone. But the 2k just goes right over the top without any reaction.

 

Well it looks like you are ready to go so good luck with it. Next week I will be painting an XB Flacon so I will have my work cut out for me. :)

[Ash 145]

I know mean. Being shit may have been over descriptive.

 

Is the XB yours? You painting it at home?

I used to have an XB, a hardtop 351 4 speed car with a 9inch. It was my first muscle/classic car. I loved it, it went very well! But a divorce saw me having to sell it. I still regret not hiding it in a shed somewhere but she went after it. It wasn't a show car by any means but was a tough car.

[70mstang 11]

Went out and "liked" your FB page =) Looks like great work you do there.

[Ash 145]

Thanks 70mstang, appreciate that!!

It is long over due for an update, as is my webpage. I'm holding out until the job I'm working on at the moment, a kitchen, is finished as for the most of the time it simply looks like a pile of cut and prepared melamine boards. The light at the end of the tunnel is getting brighter though, slowly!

[stangnet33 88]

You're moving along there Ash ! I really like your car :thumbup1: with the options it has. So it seems you are starting to dig deeper into things. What is your plan of action ? Are you going to do a total restore as in doing the rear end, trans, interior and so on or are you just mostly going to tackle the engine, body work and paint and leave the rest for now so you can drive it sooner ? Still thinking black w/all the Mach 1 exterior trim ?

Ok enough ?'s for now :blushing:

[Ash 145]

Thanks stangnet! Here's some of the details from my Marti report if you're interested. You can see if originally was a C6 car and a few other options have been changed or are missing.

 

9 1969

R Built at San Jose

02 Mustang Sportsroof

R 428-4V CJ Engine Ram Air

 

DOOR DATA PLATE INFORMATION

 

63C Mustang Mach I Sportsroof

65 Acapulco Blue Paint, Ford #3077-A

with blackout hood treatment

Black Clarion Knit/Vinyl Mach I Hi-Back Bucket

Seats

3AA

18C Scheduled For Build: March 18, 1969

62 Houston Ordering District

O 3.00 Traction-Lok Axle Ratio

U C-6 Cruise-O-Matic Transmission

DEALER#: 57A012

Your vehicle was ordered with the following features:

C-6 Cruise-O-Matic Transmission

Traction-Lok Differential

F70X14 Traction Tires w/ Raised White Letters

Power Front Disc Brakes

Power Steering

Air Conditioner - Selectaire

AM/8-Track Stereo Radio

Tinted Glass-Complete

Tachometer

 

The things like trans and diff are pretty much good to just bolt back in. Both so far appear really good. The trans is a close ratio 31 spline top loader that shifts very well and is very nice. The diff is a 31 spline 3.91:1 traction lock diff. It has blown out the axle oil seals from sitting but apart from that, it all seems very good too. I think the trans and diff are the same specs as what came out in a SCJ car?

The tail shaft is a brand new custom made shaft, fully balanced. That was made and installed a few days before I purchased the car.

The Hurst shifter is completely rebuilt, it is beautiful the way it shifts. I have a receipt for that work being done which from memory cost almost $400 alone.

A lot of the interior has some new/good points to it. The seat trims and carpet etc are all new. The door panels are a bit sad looking and missing some of the chrome. They look good at a glance but get close and they could be replaced. The dash itself just needs a tidy up. It also looks good but when you start getting picky at it there are some things that need doing. I also have no console. It had a 71 console in it. So I think I'll run no console until the correct 69 one comes along. And I'd really like to get the proper tach dash cluster back in too. The rim blow might also get a tidy up but it is more then respectable.

 

When I brought the car I was given a folder of new parts receipts. It is at least an inch thick and go back over the previous decade or so. There is so much brand new stiff on the car and I know after going through the receipts, that they are not all there. I was told the PO had 25k invested in rebuilding the car, and that is what I paid for it.

 

I still plan to change to black with red Mach1 stencilling. That was the colour I originally wanted and almost got but I hesitated in buying the black one I found. I ended up finding this one a couple of months later.

 

At the moment I'm trying to organise some primers and epoxy to have ready for when I get into that. I'm trying to source SPI products and it looks like I'm going to have to wait for them to come over by ship so want to get onto that sooner then later.

 

I also want to work on fitting some subframe connectors which I would like to do sooner then later as well so I can get the under side down and signed off. This car will not be a concourse car or will it ever be to the detail of cars like buckeyedemon's. As amazing and inspiring those cars are, it isn't why I brought this car. I just want to have things fixed properly and looking respectable for a long time. I want to drive this as often as I can and enjoy it and knowing me, that'll be a couple of times a week at a minimum. More likely every day after I get it on the road first up, haha! :lol:

 

The exhaust is a new Magnaflow stainless system. It had new Hooker headers but I'm going to sell them and get a set of ceramic FPA's instead. The engine at the moment is still the block on the stand. Once I have saved up enough I'll put the order in for a new Scat rotating assembly, a 4.250 stroke crank with the BBC rods which will take it out to 461 cubes. It'll all be balanced at the same time. I'll get the heads checked out and will have a go and match porting them myself to the new Blue Thunder intake I just got. All the MSD ignition is new, as is the 800cfm Edelbrock carb. But will wait and see how it goes with that car to see if it needs a change. I'd like to add either the MSD Atomic EFI or the EZ-EFI system. But EFI may be long down the track.

 

I'm sure there is plenty more. I think I got myself a good base to start with. I thought it was better but that's not how it has panned out, oh well. Should be a nice car once done! :001_smile:

[Lemon Owner 11]

The XB is a panel van and yes it is mine. I will be painting it at home. I just have to make sure I have a good mask and the place is sealed up tight. 2k carries and will paint everything in a 1 mile radius, lol. The engine is a 302 cleveland with a C4 but I just converted it to 4sp manual toploader. Engine runs but is getting tired so I will freshen it up with a 351 crank and a few other goodies. Might even source a set of 4V heads but that's a little overkill. Runs a 9" disc brake with xf calipers and discs.

 

Pity you had to give up the XB hardtop. The best looking Aussie muscle car bar none. On par in looks to the 69 fastback I think. The only let down is that they never really come out of the factory hot but who cares. Can build em how you like em.

[Ash 145]

I really like the look of the vans too. I've eyed off a few over the years but never pulled the trigger. You know, never have enough money when one is available. Do you have a build thread on it anywhere? Would love to have a look and see your paintwork progress.

 

I parted out my last 351C project before I brought the 69. I had put the engine into an XF ute which I also adapted an XH XR front too. I had a heap of Clevo parts, including a spare 4MAB. That was the second time I sold all my Clevo stuff to say I wont need any of that ever again" :rolleyes:

 

I sold my XB just before the value of them went through the roof. I still doubled my money in the 12 months I owned it, I only paid $4500 for it at the time. Silly ex-wife's lawyer went after it though so I couldn't do anything but sell it unfortunately.

I had always wanted a 69/70 Mach 1, and the XB was the closest looking thing I could afford. It was a fantastic car, would always have a smile on my face ear to ear when I drove it.

[Ash 145]

I pulled the steering column apart this afternoon. Glad I did as it needs some attention. There was quite a bit of rust internally as you can see from the little pile there.

The rubbers are shot, as is the top bearing, it feels like sand in your teeth. :crying:

There appears to be the remains of some type of plastic insert in the lower end. I was looking closely at the one Buckeyedemon rebuilt for his car and the end of the shaft looks quite centre.

 

 

I've done some searching and there appears to be a yes and no on this. I'll keep looking but have found these two threads with some good info so will just note these for the moment for future reference

 

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=9729

 

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=2020&highlight=steering+column

 

They also had this good diagram showing the few bits that are missing

 

[Lemon Owner 11]

I really like the look of the vans too. I've eyed off a few over the years but never pulled the trigger. You know, never have enough money when one is available. Do you have a build thread on it anywhere? Would love to have a look and see your paintwork progress.

 

I parted out my last 351C project before I brought the 69. I had put the engine into an XF ute which I also adapted an XH XR front too. I had a heap of Clevo parts, including a spare 4MAB. That was the second time I sold all my Clevo stuff to say I wont need any of that ever again" :rolleyes:

 

I sold my XB just before the value of them went through the roof. I still doubled my money in the 12 months I owned it, I only paid $4500 for it at the time. Silly ex-wife's lawyer went after it though so I couldn't do anything but sell it unfortunately.

I had always wanted a 69/70 Mach 1, and the XB was the closest looking thing I could afford. It was a fantastic car, would always have a smile on my face ear to ear when I drove it.

 

I actually am not a huge fan of the panelvans but my dad bought it new so I thought I would hang onto it for that connection. Don't get me wrong, it does look cool, just not my first, second or third choice. But over the years I have put all the good gear on it so it is worth hanging onto.

 

I don't have a build thread going anywhere. Mainly because I get in and do things so quickly I would need 2 hours a day to explain what happened. That and I'm not sure if they would allow it here. Also there is always that little voice in the back of my head saying, "you're never going to finish it, so why tell everyone and look like a fool when you don't". Not sure why I think like that when I have pretty much finished two mustangs in one year but there it is.

 

Bad timing on the XB, those things fetch some pretty serious money these days. A shitter is still worth $15-$20k nowadays. But you have done well with the 69. An R code is the next best thing to a Boss 9 and it's not in bad nick.

 

On that steering column, judging by the exploded view it appears that there is a bush of some sort. Going to be fun to find one but I recon most bearings places will have something close.

[Ash 145]

I understand the connection with your Dad buying the van. I'm sure you'll hang onto it for a long time. Would love to see a pic though when it is done!

Did you get any painting done on it over the weekend?

 

That'll probably be the best bet, to walk into a bearing shop with the column in hand and see what they can do.

I'm in the process of ordering my primers and fillers from SPI in Georgia. It'll take up to 2 months for them to arrive so I can repair and rebuild all these little things in the meantime.

[Lemon Owner 11]

Two months should give you plenty of time to do the little things. Give you some time to square off the panels.

 

Didn't get to work on the van much on the weekend but I have spent the last two days on it. Yesterday was stripping off all the parts and panels and spent some time on the gaps. Did some more work on the gaps today and started cutting out the rust. Always more rust than you think.:001_unsure:

[Ash 145]

Bugger about the rust, but I know how X-series Falcons can do that. What starts out as a little hole, usually always ends up a big hole!

[Ash 145]

This thing is starting to look pretty bare

 

 

Under the door hinges I think isn't going to be that bad. I gave it a bit of a light sand and I think the rust is pretty superficial

 

 

 

 

Got the dash all out now too including all the A/C gear

 

 

Which allowed me to have a better look behind the A-pillar and under the hinge plates. I think it's not looking too bad. Not really all that different to the under side of the rear quarters. Doesn't look like there is any deep penetrating rust from the outside anyway

 

 

 

 

Under the side vent, I found the worst rust so far. But still, I think if this is the worst so far, I'm doing ok. This is not crucial and definitely not an important area. Why it wasn't fixed before I don't know, but it will be this time

 

 

 

This is the patch done on the under side of the cowl above the drivers feet. Looks much better from this side but the top side will still need something done to prevent further rust. Was even thinking if I should remove the patch and start it again?

 

 

And here is under the passenger side

 

 

 

I was in town on Monday too so I got a couple of minutes to stop and grab myself a few of these

 

 

The SPI products are now paid for and on their way to Aus as well.

[70mstang 11]

Great to see that most of the rust was just surface! You definately nabbed a winner =)

[LindenBruce 27]

Hi Ash,

 

Like how things are going for you. Doesn't look like you are going to have to do much sheet metal work. It's funny how close our cars are in manufacture. Mine was built March 6th 1969 at San Jose. Double R car just like yours. Mine had a 3.50:1 open rear end no a/c and no p/s. Royal Maroon with white interior Mach 1.

 

That lower bushing from part group 7347 is obsolete. I saw one on e-bay about four months ago NOS but I just missed getting it. Is this a pic of the part? That's your only option. Bruce

[Lemon Owner 11]

She is starting to look pretty bare, but at least it will be easier to get to those hard to reach places. Good to see the rust is only surface and not too deep. I would have a good look at those patches in the cowl area and maybe do them again. However it still looks like a good solid car.

[Ash 145]

Great to see that most of the rust was just surface! You definately nabbed a winner =)

 

I know I still have a lot of digging to do just yet but so far things are not looking too bad!

 

 

Hi Ash,

 

Like how things are going for you. Doesn't look like you are going to have to do much sheet metal work. It's funny how close our cars are in manufacture. Mine was built March 6th 1969 at San Jose. Double R car just like yours. Mine had a 3.50:1 open rear end no a/c and no p/s. Royal Maroon with white interior Mach 1.

 

That lower bushing from part group 7347 is obsolete. I saw one on e-bay about four months ago NOS but I just missed getting it. Is this a pic of the part? That's your only option. Bruce

 

Wow, your car must have been just ahead in the construction line of mine. That's really cool! I'd like to find out more about where the dealer was who sold mine but I couldn't find anything against the dealer number on the Marti report. Have you looked into any of that with yours?

 

That bush in mine is pretty much non-existent. It is still there but only just. Looking at that exploded parts diagram though it looks like there should be another 3 pieces. Looks like in the diagram there are 2 x 7347, 1 x 7C102 and 1 x 3E629.

Looking at the diagram again, it looks like 3E629 might be the top bearing in the shaft near the steering wheel end. If that is the case, what is 7C102?

 

Here's the diagram again

 

 

She is starting to look pretty bare, but at least it will be easier to get to those hard to reach places. Good to see the rust is only surface and not too deep. I would have a good look at those patches in the cowl area and maybe do them again. However it still looks like a good solid car.

 

Glad you said it too. Even though the patch isn't leaking, I think redoing it is the best option.

Need to have a better look at the right hand side though, still not 100% sure exactly what is going on there.

[LindenBruce 27]

Remember those are "group" numbers. Take for example the 7347 number. While the diagram shows two of them, they are totally different in shape and size. The bottom most one is the one I attached the pic of today. The other one looks different and was very serviceable on my column and got reused.

 

And when something is listed as a "bearing" it in fact maybe just a piece of plastic the inner steel tube rides against and keeps from rubbing against the outer steel tube. It doesn't necessarily mean it has a steel cage with little balls or rollers like a wheel bearing or axle bearing.

 

If I remember correctly 3E629 is toward the bottom end of the column. The bearing at the top near the steering wheel is 3518 or 3517. I don't remember 7C102.

 

The DSO on my car is 51 and like you I haven't been able to track down my car's early life. If so I might have been able to find the original 428cj and restore the "numbers matching" portion. Heck, I don't even know if my car really ever left California. All I know for sure is I talked to the guy I bought it from like a year or two before I bought it. I lost interest in the car. When I finally renewed my search for a car, I dug through my "old" phone records and called every number from the Sacramento area leaving messages of "Hey, is this the guy who had the Mach 1 for sale? If so can you call me back? Thanks." Kind of funny when you think about it. Well, the guy called me back and I went up and bought the old girl. Fired her up and drove her home after digging her out from under a large pile of leaves in an apartment complex.

 

I got my 99 report from Ford but I haven't got my Marti report just yet. The 99 report showed some discrepancies in my car's equipment. Maybe more will be revealed with a Marti.

 

Bruce

[Mike65 476]

Ash,

My 69 Coupe is rotted at the side vent area like your is. Fordrevhead had made some replacement pieces for his 69 Mach-1 & made me one for my drivers side. Shoot him a PM, maybe he can make you up one too. My 69 has some rot at the upper door hinge location on the drivers side.

[Ash 145]

Remember those are "group" numbers. Take for example the 7347 number. While the diagram shows two of them, they are totally different in shape and size. The bottom most one is the one I attached the pic of today. The other one looks different and was very serviceable on my column and got reused.

 

And when something is listed as a "bearing" it in fact maybe just a piece of plastic the inner steel tube rides against and keeps from rubbing against the outer steel tube. It doesn't necessarily mean it has a steel cage with little balls or rollers like a wheel bearing or axle bearing.

 

If I remember correctly 3E629 is toward the bottom end of the column. The bearing at the top near the steering wheel is 3518 or 3517. I don't remember 7C102.

 

The DSO on my car is 51 and like you I haven't been able to track down my car's early life. If so I might have been able to find the original 428cj and restore the "numbers matching" portion. Heck, I don't even know if my car really ever left California. All I know for sure is I talked to the guy I bought it from like a year or two before I bought it. I lost interest in the car. When I finally renewed my search for a car, I dug through my "old" phone records and called every number from the Sacramento area leaving messages of "Hey, is this the guy who had the Mach 1 for sale? If so can you call me back? Thanks." Kind of funny when you think about it. Well, the guy called me back and I went up and bought the old girl. Fired her up and drove her home after digging her out from under a large pile of leaves in an apartment complex.

 

I got my 99 report from Ford but I haven't got my Marti report just yet. The 99 report showed some discrepancies in my car's equipment. Maybe more will be revealed with a Marti.

 

Bruce

 

Ah ok, Bruce, I understand in regards to them grouping the numbers.

 

This is the bearing I was referring to, you can see it fits inside the black cover to the left and on the top of the shaft itself, just under the circlip.

 

 

The bearing is stuffed. And it has a rubber outer ring. I should be able to get this from a bearing shop though, the rubber is still more then usable.

I think Part No. 3517 is the bearing and 3518 is the outer rubber sleeve.

 

 

 

I'll have to keep searching to see if I can figure out what 7C102 and 3E629 are.

 

That's amazing how you brought you're car. How many people did you ring before you got the call back? That's dedication though, I bet you were kicking yourself after walking away from it the first time. Can't believe it fired straight up and drive too!! How long had it been sitting?

 

 

Ash,

My 69 Coupe is rotted at the side vent area like your is. Fordrevhead had made some replacement pieces for his 69 Mach-1 & made me one for my drivers side. Shoot him a PM, maybe he can make you up one too. My 69 has some rot at the upper door hinge location on the drivers side.

 

Thanks for the suggestion, Mike. I should be able to recreate this piece ok though. I'll drawer up a template and cut out the replacement before I remove any material.

I'm curious though, did your rust in this same area go beyond the part where the vent mates against the body? Had it spread any further?

 

I removed the R/H cover to open up the rear quarter inner and it looks better then the drivers side. Still has that surface rust at the very top under side.

 

 

 

With the rear seat, do all fastbacks have the backrest hinged at the bottom? The top on mine was fixed with a black cover but the bottom is hinged. I'm not sure if this is just how they are or if the hinge means at some point it had the fold down seat?

 

 

Here's the cover and where it was screwed underneath.