Ash's 69 R-code

[Flanders 47]

your back seat matches the one in m GT. It's a non-fold-down seat. Hinged at the bottom, but secured at the top.

[craig429 10]

Wow, I first saw this topic a month ago, and now it is 22 pages long. You have been busy.

 

A couple things, I live in the same town you bought your 66, I don't remember seeing it around, but I am sure I must have seen it.

Second, SPI makes very nice primers and clear coats. I have used them on one project and will use them on my 70 SCJ. They now have a red oxide primer that matches Ford's red oxide. Your car being built in SJ originally had red oxide.

 

This is a very informative topic, I need to measure the distance between my rear quarters to see if they are correct as both mine have been replaced by a shop the prior owner hired. I haven't started the re-tear down of mine as the prior owner reassembled it enough to make it easier to transport. I suspect I will start on it in a few months.

 

Keep up the good work.

[LindenBruce 27]

Ash,

 

I am fairly certain that top bearing is available new. Mine was in excellent shape so I did not have to replace it.

 

Fortunately I only got one call back and that was from the seller. I must have left a dozen phone messages though. People must have thought I was crazy. Given the amount of leaves and debris I think she had been sitting for several years. I was surprised she started.

 

My rear fixed seat is hinged at the bottom and secured to the package tray support with screws and a right angle bracket at each top side corner.

 

My sequential assembly number is 152640. What's your Ash? Bruce

[Ash 145]

your back seat matches the one in m GT. It's a non-fold-down seat. Hinged at the bottom, but secured at the top.

 

Ah ok, thanks Flanders. I guess having the hinge on all models makes it easy to change to a fold down seat and also easy on the assembly line when putting them together.

 

Wow, I first saw this topic a month ago, and now it is 22 pages long. You have been busy.

 

A couple things, I live in the same town you bought your 66, I don't remember seeing it around, but I am sure I must have seen it.

Second, SPI makes very nice primers and clear coats. I have used them on one project and will use them on my 70 SCJ. They now have a red oxide primer that matches Ford's red oxide. Your car being built in SJ originally had red oxide.

 

This is a very informative topic, I need to measure the distance between my rear quarters to see if they are correct as both mine have been replaced by a shop the prior owner hired. I haven't started the re-tear down of mine as the prior owner reassembled it enough to make it easier to transport. I suspect I will start on it in a few months.

 

Keep up the good work.

 

Thanks Craig! It's been great to make note of everything I have found as the feedback and help from everyone has been top shelf! It'll also help me later to remember what went where and how things were. It's going to get to the point though where I'll have to make an index.

 

You're from Bend, cool! I'm not sure how long the previous owner had my 66 but I know it didn't get used much. I know already since I've had it in Australia, I have done about 2500 miles in it which is more then it had done in at least the previous decade. I'm not sure if it was a local car to Bend but I would like to find out more. I know in 2000 I think it was it received a colour change from the original bronze to the yellow.

 

If you don't mind, when you get to start on yours, let me know what you find with the dimensions and setting out of your cars rear end as well. It'll be very interesting to see just how consistent they are.

 

Cheers!

 

Ash,

 

I am fairly certain that top bearing is available new. Mine was in excellent shape so I did not have to replace it.

 

Fortunately I only got one call back and that was from the seller. I must have left a dozen phone messages though. People must have thought I was crazy. Given the amount of leaves and debris I think she had been sitting for several years. I was surprised she started.

 

My rear fixed seat is hinged at the bottom and secured to the package tray support with screws and a right angle bracket at each top side corner.

 

My sequential assembly number is 152640. What's your Ash? Bruce

 

My dog even took off with that bearing of mine, Bruce. I caught her before she chewed it too bad, no real damaged though.

 

I found another photo on ebay last night where it looks slightly different again. This shaft looks quite centralised and am I wrong in saying the bush looks a little different too?

 

 

My seat is sounding much like yours too.

 

After all the trouble you went through to get your car, will it be staying around for a long long time? It's an amazing story you have!

 

Mine is 155999. How exactly are they designated, is it sequential as they roll along the assembly line or another way?

[craig429 10]

Got some more measurements.

 

Your top measurement of the boot opening, closest to the window, was 43.5 inches. I also got 43.5. So it is correct at that point. Which also in theory should mean the glass opening is the correct.

 

Down in the dip where the extensions meet the rear quarter, you got 43 1/8, I got 42 3/4. So that means I narrow at this point by 3/8. Which is heaps! And if that was to push out, I'm sure it would push out the side and close up that misalignment on the right side extension.

 

Looks like once the paint is up, we'll be undoing some welds on these replacement panels and realigning them.

 

I just measured my 70. Remember both my quarters have been replaced.

The top measurement of the trunk (boot) is 43 9/16" . Where the extension meet the rear quarter is 43 1/16". The bottom of the rear window opening is 43 5/8".

[Mike65 476]

Ah ok, Bruce, I understand in regards to them grouping the numbers.

 

This is the bearing I was referring to, you can see it fits inside the black cover to the left and on the top of the shaft itself, just under the circlip.

 

 

The bearing is stuffed. And it has a rubber outer ring. I should be able to get this from a bearing shop though, the rubber is still more then usable.

I think Part No. 3517 is the bearing and 3518 is the outer rubber sleeve.

 

 

 

I'll have to keep searching to see if I can figure out what 7C102 and 3E629 are.

 

That's amazing how you brought you're car. How many people did you ring before you got the call back? That's dedication though, I bet you were kicking yourself after walking away from it the first time. Can't believe it fired straight up and drive too!! How long had it been sitting?

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the suggestion, Mike. I should be able to recreate this piece ok though. I'll drawer up a template and cut out the replacement before I remove any material.

I'm curious though, did your rust in this same area go beyond the part where the vent mates against the body? Had it spread any further?

 

I removed the R/H cover to open up the rear quarter inner and it looks better then the drivers side. Still has that surface rust at the very top under side.

 

 

 

With the rear seat, do all fastbacks have the backrest hinged at the bottom? The top on mine was fixed with a black cover but the bottom is hinged. I'm not sure if this is just how they are or if the hinge means at some point it had the fold down seat?

 

 

Here's the cover and where it was screwed underneath.

 

 

Ash,

No the rot is only in the recessed area where the vent screws to.

[Ash 145]

I just measured my 70. Remember both my quarters have been replaced.

The top measurement of the trunk (boot) is 43 9/16" . Where the extension meet the rear quarter is 43 1/16". The bottom of the rear window opening is 43 5/8".

 

Yours is much closer then mine is, Craig. How are your extensions on the vertical outside edge of the quarter, do they line up quite ok?

 

Ash,

No the rot is only in the recessed area where the vent screws to.

 

Sweet, thanks Mike. It's looking like mine is similar but I wont know exactly until I remove the carpet and and the deadener/paint.

[craig429 10]

Yours is much closer then mine is, Craig. How are your extensions on the vertical outside edge of the quarter, do they line up quite ok?

 

 

My extensions are not on the car. I think I have a problem with the driver side extension that came with the car as it looks like someone did some filing on the mounting edge of the extension but when I set it against the quarter, the extension did not fit well against the quarter. If I remember correctly, I had a large gap (1/8") between the top of the quarter and the top of the extension when the extension was flat against the vertical edge of the quarter. They may have filed it incorrectly to try to fix a fitment issue. I have since purchased another extension but have not tried to mount it to the quarter. I haven't even tried to align the trunk lid.

 

My quarters were done in a place in Boston that appeared to do a good job when just looking at how they actually used a spot welder instead of plug welding. But they were not contracted to actually finish the car because the prior owner got hurt and then had to sell the car. So I think I have a couple fitment issues I am going to have to solve. I am glad to find out that the spacing between the quarters are correct. I would hate to have to redo the quarters since they do look factory installed with the real spot welds.

[Ash 145]

That's interesting that you have inconsistency between different extension. I had also wondered about mine, if they were also at fault to not lining up with the quarter and not just the quarter being the issue. Unfortunately they are not an easy to come by thing here in Aus to just grab another set to try out.

[craig429 10]

Someone had sanded on the edge of the extension that had the issue. I am do not know if there is inconsistency between unmodified extensions. I think I may have a problem of my drivers quarters where the extension mounts due to how the quarter and the rear panel were attached. I haven't looked at what is causing the issue until I get into the body.

[Lemon Owner 11]

I think the problem is they did not build these cars properly to begin with. They were notorious for their lack of quality in the gaping etc.(and everything else). But a tap here and there and a twist of the odd door/fender and she will be ok. It's always fun trying to line up the gaps. I spent around 8 hours lasr week just to do a half assed job of it. lol

[Ash 145]

Hahaha, I think my efforts will be something along those lines too! It'll be fun though, quite frustrating too I'm sure, but still fun!

[craig429 10]

I feel I will be able to get the extensions fitted correctly to the quarters as I have a spare extension. The area that I am really concerned is on the drivers quarter rear window opening toward the top, I think where it meets the roof, I have a slight bulge which I will feel will cause a problem with the rear window trim to sit flat and the bulge will show in the final finish. I am not sure how to fix it since there is the slight trough there.

[miketyler 15]

Hey Ash - I have been multitasking lately and remembered your dilemma with rear quarters. Mine appear to be OEM cast units. I can still move them into alignment where they fair in nicely but they dont like it. Will probably have to torque the nuts down further.We'll see but relaxed, they want to drop low like yours.

[Lemon Owner 11]

I feel I will be able to get the extensions fitted correctly to the quarters as I have a spare extension. The area that I am really concerned is on the drivers quarter rear window opening toward the top, I think where it meets the roof, I have a slight bulge which I will feel will cause a problem with the rear window trim to sit flat and the bulge will show in the final finish. I am not sure how to fix it since there is the slight trough there.

 

It would be an easy fix if you don't mind a little cutting and shutting. But if you can't damage the paint there then I would not even worry about it. The only person who will notice it is you or the picky ahole that only dreams of owning a car like yours. And you will forget about it when you drive down the street and you're getting the thumbs up from passing motorists. :thumbup1:

[Ash 145]

I feel I will be able to get the extensions fitted correctly to the quarters as I have a spare extension. The area that I am really concerned is on the drivers quarter rear window opening toward the top, I think where it meets the roof, I have a slight bulge which I will feel will cause a problem with the rear window trim to sit flat and the bulge will show in the final finish. I am not sure how to fix it since there is the slight trough there.

 

If I compare that to mine, mine has a few small rust holes and plenty of surface rust underneath. That bulge could be a rust bulge. Like Lemon Owner said, can you repair that area or is the paint staying untouched?

 

Hey Ash - I have been multitasking lately and remembered your dilemma with rear quarters. Mine appear to be OEM cast units. I can still move them into alignment where they fair in nicely but they dont like it. Will probably have to torque the nuts down further.We'll see but relaxed, they want to drop low like yours.

 

Hey Mike, that's really interesting. I plan on removing mine soon, have almost finished removing the interior. I'll check then too if mine are also OEM's. I don't know if I can shuffle and re-align mine like you said you have. I think if it does realign better to the side of the quarter, its going to mess up the alignment on the top of the quarter. But I'll give it a try when I get to it and get some photos of what happens.

Do you have any photos of yours in position?

[Ash 145]

I was cleaning up the last of the parts fitted to the engine bay and firewall and I had another good look at the cowl area. I definitely have a hole to work with and it isn't in an easy to get to spot.

 

 

Here you can see the light from a torch that I was shiny up through from the footwell.

 

[LindenBruce 27]

Boy Ash that looks like physical damage from a blunt object. Is there corresponding damage on the engine side of the firewall? Bruce

[Ash 145]

No, nothing Bruce. No sign of anything on the firewall side.

It kind of looks like someone has had a dig at it to attempt a repair, but then thrown their hands in the air and given up.

I think there will be enough room to get the mig tip in to weld. Cleaning it up though is going to be tricky.

[Ash 145]

Got a chance to remove the rear extensions. The tail light panel has been replaced recently along with as we knew the lower quarters.

 

 

 

Look what fell out of the right one, glad this was picked up during quarantine inspection. :001_huh: These aren't the first I have found either but definitely the biggest bunch.

 

 

 

I found a whole bunch of expander foam sealing off the seam in this quarter. Is that really the correct way to do this? Seems a bit bodgy. As do the unused open holes right beside it. I know one is for the rear valance but there are odd holes around other then these.

 

 

Is this also the norm for the loom retaining clips to poke through to the outside? Also to me doesn't seem quite right and it looks a bit half-arsed.

 

 

 

Are there any books out there that go over placement of parts and parts used? I'm really not sure as to how things should be and shouldn't be. Some things really just don't seem right in the way they are done.

I brought a electronic PDF version of the 1969 Mustang Part and Body Illustrations but it is very simple and not that detailed.

Edited April 10, 2012 by Ash

[Mike65 476]

Ash,

As far as the placement of the retainer clips for the harness in the trunk IIRC when I removed the harness from the trunk in my 69 Coupe they were cliped to the brackets that are part of the tail light panel that hold the tail lights & to the bracket that holds the trunk latch, not through the bottom of the tail light panel to the outside. Does my description make sense to you?

[Ash 145]

Thanks Mike, that does make sense. It makes sense to have it that way and not punched through to the outside unsealed.

 

It kind of makes it useless going to the trouble of putting a sealer on some exposed bolt holes then to go and make fresh unsealed holes for these. Yet another forehead slapping moment!

 

I thought I'd say too to you 69 fans, on the weekend I got to see in person for the first time a Boss 429. WOW!! What an amazing car, that motor is simply huge!!

 

We had the annual national Mustang show close to home. Lots of very high end cars. Still probably would seem small to you US guys but was a massive turnout for us Aussies.

 

 

 

 

And my little 66 chucked in amongst them all :001_smile:

 

[70mstang 11]

On my 70 the wiring retainers in the trunk were rubber coated metal and put n place with screws through the taillight panel. I'm thinking maybe the screws sealed better than the plastic clips. But the holes are normal, they get hidden by the bumper.

 

Gotta remember the folks that made these cars were union labor doing what they needed to get the cars together & out fast. If you get a Marti report you can see when your car was built. Cars built on Wednesdays were better than than most since the workers weren't hung over from the weekend and not in a hurry for Friday night =) Mine was built on June 19th 1970 .. a Friday LOL so I got one where they were tossing them together before the weekend whistle!

[Ash 145]

I had never looked at that before 70mstang, mine is in fact a Friday car too! March 14, 1969. I've always joked about working on Friday specials, didn't realise my 69 was one too!

 

The holes for these plastic retainers look fresh. I believe it was the PO that has done it this way. I also found fresh tek screws across the top of the rear valance. I don't believe they should be like that either.

These are the kind of things I'm not understanding, why do some things with some signs of effort while other tasks have been clearly Friday specials but not done by Ford back in the day.

 

I like the idea of what your retainers are, the rubber coated metal ones. They may find their way in place of these plastic ones.

All the rubber grommets are shot too, very hard and broken so I'll need to see what can be done with them as well.

[Lemon Owner 11]

My coupe and mach1 don't have any wiring retainers at all let alone screwed through the tail light panel. The rear valance was tek screws all the way! lol

 

That boss 9 is B E A U T I F U L!!! Never got to see that one at the nationals on the Gold Coast last year. :confused1:

 

I will try not to hijack your build thread but I have a few pics of the van if you are interested. The first pic was 3 weeks ago. The last pic is 2 hours ago. Around 15 days and 100+ hours. And let me tell you I am sick to death of sanding!!!!