RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 28, 2015 Those Miller syncrowave sd's are nice Ridge Runner. Two of my brothers and I each bought one within 3 months of each other, unbeknownst to the others. Aluminum is a blast to weld. When I took my first tig class I told the instructor I had to drop the class because I couldn't get aluminum down. He called bs, then spent 20 minutes with me. Easy peasy from then on. He's now a good friend who got me connected to the great deal on my new Miller tig. Ash I don't know if I could tig w/o a foot pedal. Nice college try on the wife though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangnet33 88 Report post Posted February 2, 2015 Looks like a great machine Bob. I haven't really given Miller much of a look as I find them so expensive up here for us garage guys. Great score ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted March 21, 2015 Yikes! I suppose it's been a while since I've posted any progress. Got some Auto Meter Ultra Lite gauges test fit. I just wish the rpm and mph numbers weren't so high. Id rather have 140 mph and a 7 or 8k tach. If I had deep pockets there are some nice $1,100 gauge sets out there. I had some free time so I thought I'd check the shaker fit in the hood as I had changed the tranny mount to keep the lowered motor at the same angle. The shaker fit fine and looked to be sitting lower and better than before. Then I remembered I lowered the motor a bit more after I installed adjustable motor mounts. I then remembered that the Monte Carlo bar was pretty snug to the shaker base before I lowered the motor again. I installed the m/c bar and there was interference with the air breather fitting at the front of the shaker base. One step forward, three back. Figured I would just remove and lower the m/c bar mounting tab on the brackets which mount to the shock tower/inner fender. Lowered them a bit, tack welded then, checked fit, then fully welded them. Before pic. After pics. When I bought my shaker back around 1995 ($25 thank you) the trim ring was broken at the rear center peak. I tried fiberglass and when it failed tried JB Weld which also failed. I've recently used JB Steelstik with good results, so I figured what would it hurt to try. It's held up so far, no idea how it will do on the hood with its movement. Need to finish up sanding the trim ring repair, then redo the complete shaker. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted March 22, 2015 The shaker is sitting really nice to the bonnet. Nice work! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted March 22, 2015 I did a full roll cage in a 65 Fast back with my tig ,but i cheated and did it on the rotisserie .Instead of having to turn up side down to do the welds ,i turned the car .The welds turned out beautiful .Still a lot of places though that are hard to weld with a tig . Aluminum always turns out so nice ,the welds are shinny and just fun . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted March 24, 2015 Thanks Ash, it was pretty much dumb luck. My guess is that I have a 428 shaker. You didn't cheat Ridge Runner, you used your brain. My number 2 rule in welding is to get comfortable. There's not much nicer looking than a good aluminum tig weld. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Footcutter11 23 Report post Posted March 27, 2015 Nice build! Glad to know I am not the only one who comes back and redoes stuff. I seem to be doing a lot of that... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Glenn83 19 Report post Posted April 5, 2015 Crossed a big hurdle this weekend, got the shaker sitting in a good position relative to the hood. With stock motor mounts the scoop was around 1" too high. In order to lower the shaker to fit properly on the 351w and Weiand Stealth intake manifold, I considered milling the intake manifold, using a drop base air cleaner or making motor mounts to lower the engine. Decided on making the cool looking motor mounts. Bolted up the new mounts then discovered the stock pan won't allow any lowering of the motor. Doh! Maybe shoulda checked the clearance first. Took a look at the stock x member and realized Ford did a really crappy effort in its design. Drew up some plans where the tube goes beneath the LCA bolt at an angle then under the pan. The stock tube goes above the LCA pivot bolt which causes interference with the pan if the motor is lowered. Had some 1-1/2" o.d. 4130 tube bent, fit and welded the pieces for a better stronger mouse trap. No interference with the steering as I was concerned with due to different routing of the tube.Installed all the parts, centered the shaker scoop in the center of the hole in the hood. Bob Bob would you be interested in making me one of those cross members?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted April 6, 2015 Probably Glenn, but you'll have to pick it up in person :) I'm having issues with my personal messenger, can you email me at robertpmcdougal@gmail.com Thanks, Bob. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grabber70Mach 107 Report post Posted April 6, 2015 Does it attach in all the stock mounting points? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted April 7, 2015 Yes, well it did until I added the Shelby mod where it bolts via a bracket to the lower control arm bolt. But it can obviously be made with just the two lower frame rail mounts. It uses the stock tapered bolts and matching recessed mounts. My lower control arm is adjustable and the bolt is in a fixed location. If I had the stock eccentric or the adjustable camber plates the hole in the Shelby bracket would need to be oval. I should have welded the bracket at the front edge of the tube closer to the LCA so the spacer is not as wide. The theory of the bracket is that it stiffens the lower control arm mount. Who knows if it does. 1 Mach427 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grabber70Mach 107 Report post Posted April 20, 2015 Your Pm box is full Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted April 21, 2015 Oops, sorry about that. There should be plenty of room now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
klevor 10 Report post Posted April 24, 2015 Nice build going! Looking good. How much power you expecting to get out of the motor or did I miss it somewhere? Thx. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted April 24, 2015 Thanks Klevor. I'm guessing a bit over 400 hp. That's based on a similar build (stroke, heads, intake and compression) that had a roller cam with a bit more lift that made about 500 hp. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted May 27, 2015 Not much progress on the Mach One, was tinkering with the wiring harness then went to Annapolis for a week. When I returned a had a JD2 model 3 tubing bender awaiting me. I should have bought it before buying the roll bar. C'est la vie. Made the stand from what I had on hand. The drawings from JD2 show 3" round tube for the verticle piece and 1/2" plate for the attachment plates. I used 3x5" x 1/4" wall for the upright, and as I no longer have a welder capable to weld 1/2", I made the plates from 1/4". If they bend I'll redesign them. I went too thin on the wall thickness on the upper control arms and the engine crossmember for my liking, so I'll redo them. On the control arms I'll build some caster into them since the Shelby drop moves the upper ball joint forward. In addition to mine I'll make some for my brother's Mustang. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted May 27, 2015 The stand turned out nice Bob. I doubt you will have any problems with the mounting plate, it shouldn't move. Hope you left enough room between the bender and the wall to put a cheater bar on the end of the handle. It makes bending parts a one handed operation. Have some fun with your new toy and make some purdy parts :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted May 28, 2015 Thanks Mike. I've got a couple of inches to spare with the handle extension that came with the bender. Are you talking about a longer cheater bar? I did make two bends in some 1-1/2" x .120 wall for an engine crossmember. Dang these things are nice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted May 28, 2015 Thanks Mike. I've got a couple of inches to spare with the handle extension that came with the bender. Are you talking about a longer cheater bar? I did make two bends in some 1-1/2" x .120 wall for an engine crossmember. Dang these things are nice. I put an extension beyond the supplied handle when I was bending 1.75" .120" wall tube. They are nice machines. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted May 28, 2015 Thanks for the tip. I'll keep it in mind if needed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rip Rock 13 Report post Posted May 28, 2015 How do you like the jd2? It's on my " to buy" list. Any complaints or problems with it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted May 29, 2015 How do you like the jd2? I don't like it, I love it! But I've only made a couple of bends. Latoracing is the guy to ask about its performance, he's made a plethora of bends. JD2 is a few weeks behind on orders, but I received mine ahead of the expected delivery date. The packaging was exceptional, the machining and part production is very good and my bends came out perfect. Just be sure to read the instructions. You also may want to view a couple of you tube videos on it. I highly recommend it for price and performance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rip Rock 13 Report post Posted May 29, 2015 I don't like it, I love it! But I've only made a couple of bends. Latoracing is the guy to ask about its performance, he's made a plethora of bends. JD2 is a few weeks behind on orders, but I received mine ahead of the expected delivery date. The packaging was exceptional, the machining and part production is very good and my bends came out perfect. Just be sure to read the instructions. You also may want to view a couple of you tube videos on it. I highly recommend it for price and performance. Thanks Bob, carry on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted June 2, 2015 In my ongoing quest to redo things, thought I'd just post some evidence to prove that I'd rather make stuff than drive my Mustang. Instead of buying a $200 tubing notcher, I copied a guy's idea who builds bikes who posts on garage journal dot com. I've got less than $50 invested including the hole saw. I should've bought a tubing notcher back in 1980 when I was building karts! These things are way too easy to make perfect joints. The vertical piece is 1/2" 6061-T6, the saddle clamps are 1". There was no movement when cutting the tube. Sheesh! Easy peasy. The first kart I built was a road racing kart. I fabbed the 1-1/4" x .095 4130 tubing with a hack saw, round file and tig welder. I think I've found a better way. This 1-1/2" x .120 tubing will be an engine crossmember. I love the easy fit. Knock down the rough edge and it's done. I learned a new, to me, way to tig weld. Some welders have a pulse feature, I think my last machine did but my current one doesn't. Doing it manually took me a bit to get the timing and flow going, but I think I'm going to be using it a lot from now on. Have any of you guys pulse welded, and how do you like it? On this weld I was running too many amps, but got the hang of it. 1 Mach427 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted June 2, 2015 The ultimate tube notcher, a mill! That is a great way to make very nice parts, and you can do offset notches as well. That is another machine that I wish I had, some day... My little 185 Lincoln has a pulse feature on it, but it is pre-set to only reduce the amperage by a predetermined amount. It works, but is annoying to me. Our 375 Lincoln's at work have all the adjustments for up slope, back ground amps, peak amps and down slope. Takes a little bit to get it set up, but there again, it is also annoying if you get in a weird situation. For really thin materials, it might be OK, but thick aluminum sux because you can't preheat as well. Your pedal manipulation is a method I use quite often. Much more controllable and you can stop or start at any point. My avatar is an example of "pedal pulse" welding, butt welding razor blades together sharp end to sharp end is interesting. Pulse would be a great training tool, but other than that, I don't care for it. What filler material were you using when you did your part? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
