latoracing 256 Report post Posted May 4, 2014 I don't think I could ever be without a TIG welder, I'd be lost. Looks like you haven't forgotten how to, very nice job. I have to watch caffeine intake as it can give me the jitters, witch can make for some interesting welds. The fun things you can do with a little bar stock... CONGRATS on 2.5 years of sobriety! 2 JdasonAnowl and RaymoniSpoog reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted May 4, 2014 Thanks guys. Kinda forgot how much fun a tig is to use. I've been looking hard for a nice used machine. Shouldn't be too long till I get one again. Could've been not enough coffee as I've been cutting back and only had 12oz. Even though I was not happy with my dexterity, I didn't contaminate one tungsten. Thanks lato on the 2-1/2 yrs, should've quit 30 years ago. Life is good now. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted May 23, 2014 Finally got the non a/c heater box rebuilt, pressure tested the new core, and installed. Now on to the electrical. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted May 30, 2014 Gotta get this motor fired up and broke in. The distributor in the rebuilt motor when I bought the car in 1989 had a D3 part number. When I tried to install it with the Weiand Stealth intake, the body of the distributor was too short to seat fully. My brother gave me a DO unit which needed the innerds and drive gear installed. Another task I put off for unknown reasons. Hopefully it gets the job done. Now it's off to electrical. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted June 1, 2014 (edited) I himmed and hawed on which pulleys to use, but bit the bullet and bought an aluminum 3 pulley set and crank pulley spacer from CVF Racing. Their website says that for a Fluidampr balancer, which i have, a 5/8" spacer is needed for the crank pulley. When I installed the water pump and crank pulley, they were visibly way off. The spacer only needed to be .285" thick, not .625. Could be because I got the Street Dampr. Not really an issue as the thinnest spacer CVF makes is the .625. Good thing my brother found me a $300 lathe years ago. Money saving machine it is. Turned the thickness down and also bored the recess further for the balancer snout. Bolted them back on for a nice fit. At sometime in about the year 2000, I thought it would be wise to buy a Barry Grant 750 cfm carb. A few months back I started searching the web for any info on tricks or tips on them. Found out tons of folks experienced problems getting them to run correctly. Turns out to get them out the door faster, the step where the carb is cleaned after machining for alum chips and other crap was skipped. Probably not a good step to miss. This happened for a particular time period of which no one knew the dates. Fingered it would be wise to check out mine. Took the bowls off and found aluminum chips and cardboard. Super nice. Before I start on the wiring, I believe I'll try and get this thang started and broke in. Bob Edited June 1, 2014 by RPM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Glenn83 19 Report post Posted June 1, 2014 Hey Bob are they the under drive or hi flow pulleys?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted June 1, 2014 I went with the high flow Glenn as this will be my daily driver. It has a pretty mild Comp Cams XE 268. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted June 1, 2014 Looks like you have been quite busy as of late. Like the way the motor is progressing, along with all the other items. Did the rebuilt dizzy fit this time? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted June 1, 2014 Yes it did fit. The stock Ford intake is pretty low, where the Weiand was just tall enough to be a problem. I just need to keep the pedal down and finish up the small things so I can at least get it rolling. Once drivable, I can work on finishing it while working out any bugs that pop up. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted June 10, 2014 Got the alternator mounted after making the main bracket. No idea where my oem bracket went. Tried two aftermarket brackets which didn't line up the holes worth a damn. Really, three holes is too much to ask? Made it from flat bar, not the best looking but it'll do till a get a real one. The CVF pulleys are very well made and fit nicely. A good bang for the buck. I recommend them highly. Also mounted the new steering wheel. Kinda wishing I'd have got the black instead of the wood. Once I get the valves adjusted I can fire this thang up and break it in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 188 Report post Posted June 10, 2014 Looks good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted June 10, 2014 Nothing wrong with a temp fix. Grade 8 bolts? Guess you are like me, if it is worth doin', it's worth over doin'. Coming along quite quickly, bet you will be all excited when you get to turn the key and hear it run. I'm jealous. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jnet4jt 10 Report post Posted June 10, 2014 I like the wood look. But then again I like all of my bolt action rifles with wood stock over synthetic. Purely aesthetic reasons. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted June 11, 2014 Thanks guys. I've never owned a synthetic stock rifle, but I guess the sharp shooters like them. The wheel may grow on me. I've heard too many stories of broken water pump bolts to use a lesser grade. I've still got a few to change out. I've used grade 8 throughout the suspension, just cost a few bucks more. And not knowing where they're made, they could be grade 5, or less. After going with ARP for the engine fasteners, and reading up on fasteners and ARP, I kinda think they are important. And yes, I can't wait to fire up this motor. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted July 6, 2014 Kinda happy I got the engine fired and broke in without any apparent damage. Ran it for about 27 minutes total, sounded good. The cam is a mild Comp Cams XE 268H for a daily driver, so to help against wiping out the flat tappet cam I used some old Rotella T and 32 oz of GM EOS assembly lube. Both have plenty of zddp or so I've heard.The 30" fan in front of the radiator pushed the air around the radiator with none passing thru so we fabbed up a real nice Rube Goldberg shroud. Fired her up and she ran well.Never posted a video, hope this works. Audio sucks, sounds better live.Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 188 Report post Posted July 6, 2014 cool test. That zddp or whatever, is that the zinc additive? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted July 6, 2014 Yes Ed it is. I believe the z in zddp stands for zink. The Rottela is some old formula stuff that was made with plenty of zink. What are you doing up so late Ed, installing your new front suspension? Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 188 Report post Posted July 6, 2014 Nah, at my inlaws and waiting for my 11 month old son to fall asleep before I go to bed. He got wound up playing with cars when we got home from some relatives tonight. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted July 8, 2014 Cleaned up the headers a bit. Because I'm a poor tight arse I painted the headers with VHT header paint. I find it difficult to part with my cash for the nice ceramic coated headers. Got $110 in these Hedman Hedders, if they rust out before I die I'll get another set. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted July 16, 2014 Hopefully this is the last time I install the motor. Slipped it in with the fmx attached. I'm leaning heavily on removing the power brakes and go manual. We shall see. I'm not happy with how the vht header paint turned out after curing them per the instructions. Got a few spots of blistering. My brother used it on his BMW cast exhaust manifolds which turned out great. I may get them zink coated. Another brother has done it on a few sets of headers and they turned out nice. It's always something. I sure like the adjustable motor mounts buening drew up. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted July 16, 2014 Beautiful engine! May I ask why you are considering getting rid of your power brakes? 1 ncdruroSor reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted July 16, 2014 (edited) Thanks! Real men don't need power brakes or steering :) I got a master cylinder from Mustang Steve recommended to use with 4 wheel discs. I didn't notice till I was installing the brake lines that the ports are on the engine side of the m/c. If I don't go to manual I'll change the m/c to the correct side ports. The headers are too close for my comfort to the booster and brake lines. A possibility is to move two the the drivers side tubes. I'll install the d/s header today and make a decision. There are several threads on VMF discussing manual vs power steering with only a couple of folks not liking manual. Two of my brothers have manual steering on their 65 and 69 Mustangs and prefer it to power. Bob Edited July 16, 2014 by RPM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted July 16, 2014 I'm with you for manual steering. It's probably the way I got used to. Maneuvers in the parking lot are a little challenging sometimes and you'll definitely brake a sweat in summer (no A/C in my car, by the way...). But at cruising speeds, manual steering does have a better feel, IMO. And on top of that, that's less hoses, liquid and leaks altogether. However, I have never tested a manual disc brakes Mustang before. Again, probably just a mater of getting used to the feel, right? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted July 16, 2014 (edited) Much a do about nothing me thinks. After installing the drivers header and using 1/2" lowering motor mounts, there is 1" clearance on the rear brake line and 3/4" to the brake booster. I can always put some heat shield tape on the header and/or build a shield for the lines. I should have checked the header temp when I broke in the motor. My brake fluid has a 485 dry boiling point. Guess I should've bought some 600 plus degree fluid. I still may go to manual brakes, but not till this thing is on the road. I've never driven a manual steering and brakes Mustang either! And neither does this Mustang have a/c. Yikes! Bob Edited July 16, 2014 by RPM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted July 29, 2014 I fabbed up a set of aluminum tie rod adjusters today. I should have enough spare parts for 2 or 3 cars when I'm done. This is this 3rd set I've made. 1st set was steel, last 2 aluminum. I screwed up the first set of aluminum by machining flats into them for a wrench which made the wall thickness there about .079. This time I started with 1" hex 6061 T6, center drilled the ends and tapped 11/16-18 left and right hand. I turned the od hex to 1" and left a spot for a wrench. A lathe is a good machine to have. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
