RPM

Thanks guys. Stangme, the swing out bars will be like most guys I've seen do them, and use a straight bar. It's basically a standard forward bar with a section cut out and these tube end adapters welded in. They usually pivot at the lower end and secure at the upper with a quick removal pin. These pieces are expensive at the retail level, so I plan on making my own. The forward bars will not be in use very often as I will only use them when on a track. latoracing, at $350 I believe I did get a good, not great deal. The verticle part of the main hoop is 52-3/4" wide per CE. If I use the CE hoop I might add a bend at the lower end to bring them in a bit. I have a local race car Fab ship local that can bend up some 4130 for the hoop for $125. The flipping freight from Summit on the hoop is 80 something dollars. Back in the day I could make some purdy Tig welds, but I think old man age caught up with me. 69droptopgt, I'm going to stick with my original plan and use Porsche Indian red. Bob

In the past couple of months I've decided to add a six point roll bar, mainly for the added body stiffness. I also located and bought a set of 2011 Mustang GT 18x8 wheels. They were local on craigslist and about half a mile down the road. They are pristine and came off a Mustang with 5,000 miles on it. I intent to use a Competition Engineering main hoop, and get the straight forward and rear bars locally. I'll modify the forward bars to have swing out door bars. I'm in the process of installing the main hoop and rear bar 1/8" footings. The front 18x8 wheels have 6-3/8" backspace, and somehow fit with 1" wheel spacers. It might have to do with the front round tube control arms with screw in ball joint sleeves. Plenty of threads left on the studs to add 1/8" of more spacer. I hope to buy and install the roll bar and materials within the next couple of weeks. I should be able to use my brothers Miller Tig to weld up the roll bar. I've had two Tig welders, but had to sell my last one when I was laid off. I gots to be having me a Tig. Bob

Since the title doesn't limit the discussion to magnums, I'll chime in. I'll be running 18x8 all around, which fit fine. ?These are pristine and from a 2011 I believe Mustang GT with only 8k miles. I like the fact that they are oem and forged. They would be 10" in the rear if I had ordered them instead of buying them used. I plan on running a 26" front tire and 27" rear. Wheel opening lips are rolled for and aft. Bob

Heck, I thought I invented that way of cutting. Had no idea it had a name or that it was used in aircraft. Just figured it was how us okies in Bakersfield cut metal :). Don't the folks at work know that your Mustang is a top priority? Sheesh! Keep on keeping on. Bob

Hmm...I must be asleep at the wheel again. Just saw this post and that you're in Bako too. You bet, I'll come over. Call or text me @ 380-5964. Bob

(: I've been called worse. Your weather looks like mine here in our summer. I've got an old gf who lives in Baroda. Cute gal, looks like Katy Perry. Bob

Sorry, but it was a failed attempt at humor. Sportsroof guys vs coupes. Bob

You're smarter than the average bear. I just zoomed on the gauges. Bob

If I needed to lower compression, I'd look into machining the piston tops and/or thicker head gasket before buying several new parts which then need balancing. Bob

Good call! What did we do before sites like this? Dang Ozzie's know these cars better than us (: Bob

Motor looks nice Kevin. Did the block already have screw in freeze plugs, or did you add them? Bob

My FR box bolted up without issue. No idea on yours without pics. Bob

I thought of that how to video also, until I looked at the conversion parts he linked. His kit has all the parts separate which entails a whole different build. Bob

So what brand of gauges did you get? They look nice. Any install issues? Bob

Make sure you take measurements before removing the apron. If my memory serves me (fat chance) the right and left firewall to radiator support distances are different. Good luck and have some fun. Damn I love Texas hill country! Bob

I haven't seen anyone here post any info on them. If call someone who has them in stock and have them measure them for you. Bob

I'd use the push rod motor, and chip away at the thousands of dollars saved by not extra enlarging the engine bay, on the extra gas you'll use. If you want to save gas money, put in a straight six :) Bob

What is this coupe thing you guys keep taking about??? Bob

Mmmmm... roll bars. Bob

Hey Bob, can you check and see if you have the horns available please? Thanks, Bob

Yes, I do suck, thank you. Borrow it? Uh, sure. But don't tell my brother, it's his. He calls me one day and asks, I bought a mill from Spook (his real name and a friend from karting days) but don't have room for it. Can you keep it at your house until I add on or move? You betcha! Take your time. He lives 100 miles north in Fresno. The mill has been here at least 5 years and I still start a project and forget about the mill. Age :( Bob

They can be made in the average garage with a few hand tools. I cut mine out with a sawsall, then hit the edges with a flap wheel grinder. Drill press came in handy. Only after I made two of the plates with the slots did I remember that I had a mill 20 feet away. Doh! Bob

I love FE's, too bad the stang isn't the S code. However, I'd keep the Mustang. If it's power you want, put a 408 stroker Windsor in it. The Mustang will always be cooler, easier to sell, and worth more (at least to me). Enjoy the Mustang and all the fun it brings :) Bob

Not me. They look nice, but don't think they look $235 nice. If you're got some Fab skills member buening has some Ron Morris knock off plans in a PDF file. Easy to make, and can save you some coin. Bob

For what it's worth, my San Jose car has the vins stamped on both sides at the shock towers. Bob