Shep69

November 15th 1968 so not long now.

Thanks for the reminder RPM. My mustang was built in late 68 so when I get home later in the week I will check the Marti report.

I have just had my C4 Auto rebuilt. My torque converter spout also had a deep groove in it. I thought this was were the seal ran but the auto guy said to check the runout in the flex plate also. He said that you shouldn't have any more than a couple of mm otherwise this can cause issues. The guy that rebuilt my auto only does old ford stuff Mac. If you want to have a chat with him pm me and i will give you his number. He may be able to help you and he's also a MOCA member. Mark.

69s had the front and rear brackets that glued on and the 70s had bolt on brackets. If you wind the window down all the way on a 69 the Center of the glass hits the rubber stopper . You can still put pressure on the brackets if you try and force the winder mechanism further. The best fix was to place the two pieces of pipe over the steel vertical guides.

Yes i made up some stops made from pvc pipe and put a slice down the side. Placed them over the steel vertical guides so the windows stopped just before the weatherstripping. this also helps to eliminate the glue on brackets being forced off the glass. Works a treat.

Unfortunatly a lot of the aftermarket goodies are made for the Chev market and us Ford guys have to modify and adapt it to suit. Im going through this now on my 56 F100 project. Pretty poor form from Flaming River if they can't even measure the slip ring for you.

Just wanting to know if the Felpro PTFE (Teflon) rear main seals are the way to go or should I just stick with the standard rubber style.

Cheers Barnett. I will remove the balancer and have a better look. If the cracks don’t appear to bad I will just give it a clean up and replace the front seal while it’s off.

The 302 that I have in my 56 F100 came out of a 85 Lincoln . The balancer has marking on it E4TE-A3A . It has a few cracks on the rubber ring so I was thinking about changing it out. Im just wondering if it is a 28oz or 50oz balancer. It has 4 bolt holes for the serpentine pulley. Cheers

About 1/4 below Barnett. It ends up venting out so it about 1/2 inch above the cores. Maybe this is normal as BuckeyeDemon says.

Im just wondering if its normal that my radiator fluid level is always low . I decided to purchased a new 13 pound cap just to see but when the motor starts to reach running temp around 170-180 it starts venting fluid . The motor runs fine and never overheats . If I go to top the radiator up it takes about 1 litre or so. Motor is a 351W with the larger A/C radiator . Currently running a type "B" non glycol based coolant. Anyone have any ideas.

Thanks for the replies. Yeah I thought it would be best to put a fuse or circuit breaker.

I purchased a 100 amp 1 wire alternator for my 302 that’s in my 56 F100. The instructions just say to connect the alternator straight to the battery or solinoid. Nothing is mentioned about a inline fuse or circuit breaker so I’m just asking for any advice. Should I put one in or not. Thanks Mark

Might pay to get in contact with a graphics company. They may be able to make you some custom ones using the 3m vinyl. The vinyl has glass impregnated into it so you get that reflection at night. Ive seen guys paint the stripes on also but you won't get that reflection at night like the vinyl stripes. Give Graphics Express a call. They were awesome to deal with when i had some stripe issues.

I also went for a Sanden compressor as most of my under hood A/C parts were missing when I purchased my mustang. Very happy with it.

I will take the cordless grinder with me just in case. Lol

I live about 3 minutes away from Jandakot Airport bigmal. I better go and have a look .

Well you can't even follow a build on here anymore as most of the pics are gone!!! There must be a better way . Im not saying FB is any good but people who post build threads normally want to put photos in.

Agree with you Jet on the hood moulding. Its rubbish. I did however use the Corvex moulding on my mach 1 drip rail and that are OK. I think carpenter makes the best mouldings .

I’m not sure what you mean by searchable and personable. You just need to type in the search bar on the page and it will bring up all the past pics and responses. It’s pretty personable just like this forum. You can pm people add friends etc . I just thought it would be another good way of meeting people and gain info just for 69/70 guys.

I’m happy the site back up. Just wondering if it’s worth looking at getting a Facebook page for our group. There’s plenty of mustang FB pages but nothing on 69/70 like this forum.

I would try and run it with the yoke in even if you have to take the uni joint out so you can eliminate the tail shaft .

Shit that’s a bad vibration Mal the way your steering wheel is moving. That’s got to bloody frustrating. I gather you have eliminated the wheels and tail shaft by removing them and running it up on stands.

Nice work .Is that rear bumper factory, that fits sooo much better than my one . Someone must have put an aftermarket one on my stang as it sticks way out either side.