Rsmach1

lol Fordguy69 and rwcstang

Lokar has one. Edit http://m.summitracing.com/parts/lok-sp1502u Says works with any aftermarket speedo with 5/8 18 tread.

You're welcome, glad you got it worked out.

USA made and a Ford licensed product to boot, will be interesting to hear how the quality is when and if someone here pulls the trigger and try's em.

4500 stall?

My February 69 San Jose 351w fmx Mach1 came with a Bendix, looking like it's based on whatever Ford had available atm. Anyone with a pre January San Jose 351w fmx bendix equipped car care to chime in to show the what was available theory??

I've heard it had to do with trans also, who knows lol. But the Bendix is the better booster.

X2 with Opentracker, any lower and you will have rubbing issues, and your car looks awesome as is IMHO. A side note, loose the traction bars and get some caltracs, they work much better.

The more I look at the video I'm thinking that the play at the the ram attachment to the drop bracket could be your problem. That attachment point should be tight, with the rubber bushings compressed. So do that before anything and make sure you have the metal sleeve that goes into the bushings in place. Edit; X2 on what 1969_Mach1 said about the drop bracket, these cars left the factory with a 215/75/14 bias ply tire. Your 235/?/17 tire (guessing 35 series) have much more grip than the old tires, that being said they are even harder on that bracket, steering, suspension, as well as the chassis. Be careful pushing it hard into corners on big wide low profile tires with stock stuff..... Ask me how I know lol.

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Nice looking seats, glad you're happy with them. When the time comes I will be using TMI as well.

Usually takes at least a week for springs to settle, and that's with regular driving. You can always adjust your ride height with lowering blocks with those springs. I'm guessing you are trying to avoid tire rub with those 295s so don't go too low. No real way to tell which spring will settle more, every spring is different.

That is absolutely gorgeous, exactly what I had planned for mine when I bought it, but changed plans. More pics, and video when you can... Please.

Do you feel it in the wheel if the car stationary when turning lock to lock?

That's what I'm leaning towards, but one more question. This shutter you experience, do you feel it in the steering wheel, or do you feel it in the front of the car?

New or not still check, all the ball joints, and the ldler arm (a bad idler arm will cause a shudder), along with wheel bearing clearances. Also check your strut rods and bushings, check the box for play, make sure everything is tight. Once you are sure your steering is good mechanically move to the hydraulic system. Typically when something goes in the hydraulic system, like the pump, it sends trash through the rest of the system. Being you now are going to need a new ram, it's highly recommended you replace the control valve too, along with the lines and a new pump. The other option would be to go to a rack setup since you will be spending quite a few $ to get the original system fixed.

I'm thinking control valve. Edit;assuming all your alignment specs are spot on, you should also check all your ball joints, and idler arm. What size tires/wheels do you have on the front.

To each his own, never liked Jags, especially after working on em lol. I think the 69 Mustang Sportsroof is the sexiest car ever, though I might be a tad bias.

Being that far out I would start shopping for a replacement.

Sounds good to me, and simple, funny how we tend to over engineer when looking at things. Nice Shaun071

Yes the switch was mounted to the shifter with the FMX. Possible at some point the FMX was replaced with a C4 or C6? They had the switch mounted to the trans. As for the harness Midlife on this site might be able to help.

If that is what the builder installed I would use the high volume pump, and after re-reading you having 20psi at idle hot the hv would be a wise choice. I would highly recommend you pick up a new pump, and not mess around with the old one. Also since there was enough pressure to peg the gauge, it would be a good idea to check the distributor gear just to be safe.

The stock booster will be fine, as for the m/c think you will want one designed for 4-wheel disc's. Hopefully Barnett468 or someone who's done this will chime in on the m/c.

Cool, let us know how you like those brakes, what color calipers did you go with?

Oil pumps aren't all that expensive, I would definitely vote to replace it. As far as standard vs high volume, as 1969_Mach1 stated it would be helpful to know what the bearing clearances were when built. Any idea? Did your engine builder recommend the hv pump? How many miles are on it?