JXL

I have the B&M Prostick and I really like it. It is easy to shift into gear and also works well for drag racing.

That is something else I should have said too with the unisteer manual rack. The turning radias is terrible and the steering is very slow probably to make it easier to steer.

I cannot recommend Unisteer.... I installed one of their manual racks and it has had play in it from day one. I even had someone move the steering wheel back and forth and check all of the other steering components for play (Which was all new stuff that I replaced) and the play is right in the rack itself. I even tried to adjust the rack to tighten it up which did not work. Once I save up some coin I am going to do the Borgeson power steering conversion that uses the Saginaw style system.

It is competition orange. I think it was a factory option in 1970.

Ok, thanks for the info. I will take a look at it this weekend. Yes it's a '69 Coupe with the 351w. I attached a couple pics of it below I think, not sure if I did it correctly.

Ok so just to clarify, when cranking it over it is getting 12v and then when in the run position it is reduced to something lower than 12v. I will put a multi meter on the wire this weekend and check it out. Do you know where the resister is? I will bypass it if I can find it. Thanks for letting me know about this. Wrecking the box would suck but having it frig up when I am out in the car and causing it not to run would be worse!

I used the + wire from my old coil for the switched power to my 6AL box and it works fine. Do you think I should change this due to the risk of possibly damaging the box?

I have the spring in mine as well and I seem to have no issues with it. My engine is a 351w .040 over, 10.5:1 compression with aluminum AFR 185 58cc heads. I have an aluminum stock size down flow rad with a single electric fan. At approximately 85-90 kilometres an hour (I'm Canadian haha) the engine is reving at about 2800rpm and the temp sits at about 180 degrees. Idleing around town it will go up to 190. Only once have I had it go up to 210 and that was a very humid and hot day, it was well over 100 degrees outside that day. I also have an aluminum high flow edlebrock waterpump, maybe that also helps a bit. My downflow rad is also baffled at the top so that the coolant flows all the way across evenly.

Is it possible that your bottom rad hose is collapsing when the rpms are at a constant 3000 rpm? Not closing right off but becoming restrictive.

So I ordered up a new Melling HV pump installed it and it works great. Sits at about 50-60 psi while cruising and about 30 psi at idle when warm. The old pump looks like a Motorcraft unit as it has a ford part number stamped on it and a big "M". The new Melling pump looks like much better quality as it is cast iron/steel and the old unit is cast aluminum. I tore the old one apart and the relief valve was seized solid. I could move it with a hammer and punch but just barely. I will be giving the guy that did my short block for me a call as he said that he put in a Melling pump and it definatly was not. Thanks again everyone for pointing me in the right direction.

OK guys thanks for all the help. I am going to order up a new high volume pump and install. I will let you know how I make out.

I believe the clearances are the standard .002" of an inch or so. The builder put in a melling high volume pump so maybe I will just replace it with the same one.

That was going to be my next question, standard or high volume. The engine is a 351w, .030 overbore, stock crank and rods, keith black pistons, 10.5:1 compression, lunati cam and AFR 185 heads. It is an automatic car so it only sees 5500 rpm and not very often as I drive it fairly easy. I have the MSD 6AL box rev limiter set at 6000 RPM. I am thinking that a standard volume would be ok but I was looking for some advice.

Thanks for all the feedback. My next day off from work I am going to drop the pan and remove the pump. Is there a way I can fix it or is it more advisable to simply change out the entire pump to a new unit?

I should have mentioned too that it is a melling high volume pump but regular pressure. Would sit at 20 psi at idle when warm last year. The gauge goes to 100 psi so I can't see it running that high. When the gauge was working it would go to 60 psi when cold.