69ISH

I have had suggestions of it being a aftermarket electronic ignition but I am also thinking possibly aftermarket rev limiter or even something for aftermarket gauges. Any more ideas?

Hi Guys, Can anyone identify what this is and what it is for? Have been told it was a voltage regulator but I have never seen one like this and the harness is all wrong to me.

Well thank you for the large number of replies, this has just refreshed my memory of why I rarely visit this forum. For anyone who comes across this and wonders why it happens or if it is meant to. Don't ask me why, but now 5 people (All from another forum) with 69/70 cars with original wiring (May have been replaced with new but not modified) have tried the test and all are the same, the people whose cars are different have either had conversions or fitted orange turn signals in other words modified wiring. The fault is in my right LED tail light but when I was fault finding I had my left indicator on with the ignition off so I had no voltage to the right rear brake light and therefore thought the fault was not in the LED but elsewhere in the electrical system it was only once I went to remove the steering wheel I noticed the indicator self cancel and then found the issue of why I had no voltage to the right rear brake light. I think the reason the light side that is out is opposite to the indicator that is on is that the power that would normally travel to the light would go through the flasher can but because the ignition is off the flasher can is inoperative hence why the brake light does not get power.

I have just edited the opening post as I thought it was the same with the hazards on but it is not.

Long Story:- My distributor module packed it in when I was out I rolled over to the left hand side (I live in Australia so we try to pull over on the left) of the road and had my L/hand indicator on advising other road users, When pulled over I put on the Hazard/Warning lights leaving the left indicator on with the ignition switch off and exited the car, when I was out of the car I noticed that the Right rear Light was not flashing nor glowing and presumed I had a issue (I could not check anything here as my left side of the car was as close as I could get it to the armco and about a third of the car was still on the road). When the car was towed home and put in my garage I started trying to work out why that right side was not working (Indicator switch was still in the on position) I removed the tail light housing (I have LED lights) and removed the lights, I then proceeded to check that I had a good earth and then found I had no voltage to the right brake light, I then followed the harness back to under the dash to ensure there was no faults, then disconnected the rear harness from the dash harness and checked if I had voltage there and of which there was none, I then followed the wiring to the indicator switch plug and found I still had no voltage there. I then decided to check the light switch and was about to remove the steering wheel and was turning the wheel to make sure it was pointing straight ahead when I noticed the turn signal cancel. I then thought I would just check the voltage at the turn signal plug and voila I had voltage I then turned the left signal back on and had no voltage. I then turned the right indicator on and found I lost voltage to my left rear brake/turn light. I am now wanting to know if this is meant to happen (Ford design) or if there is a fault still somewhere hence why I am asking others to check if their car does the same. Cheers Rodney

It is a repop replaced about 3 months ago and I do not know if it did the same thing with the old switch. I am just wondering if this is how it is meant to work or if there is a problem. I need other people to see if it happens with their cars.

Ok, I have spent the last 2 weekends trying to find why one of my brake lights did not appear to be working and I have found that with the ignition off and the L/H indicator switch in the on position that the right hand rear brake light does not work and if the R/H indicator is on the left hand rear brake light does not work. I have spoken to a few people and asked if they could check if their car does the same, results as below. 1. 69 Shelby GT350 was the same as mine 2. 70 Mach 1 was the same as mine 3. 69 Shelby GT350H works as per normal Can anybody else with a standard 69 please check what their car does or if you have an insight please let me know.

Sorry I am not willing to take the gamble as I have already had to cut bits and fibreglass sections of the shaker base to make it fit.I have 2 different carbies 1 being a Speed Demon 750 and the other a Qft black diamond 830 the shaker fits well on the speed demon not so well on the Qft cost me about $650AUD for the Qft and now sits on the shelf as it is.

Don't count me in, I am looking for someone else to try it with an aftermarket shaker and RPM manifold before I even think about it. I love my shaker and I am not willing to lose it.

You can be my test bunny, let me know how you go and what manifold you are running Please.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-FORD-MUSTANG-CHROME-GRILL-Original-Nice-/291619677732?fits=Year%3A1969%7CModel%3AMustang&hash=item43e5e32624:g:aRYAAOSw7hRWPS8l&vxp=mtr

I am now running a 351W stroked to 408W with a C4 that was originally behind my stock 302W. I had the C4 built to handle 650 Hp and currently have approx 550 Hp (looking for more in the future). I stuck with the C4 as they can be built economically to be stronger than a FMX and are much lighter. I am not sure if you had a C10 in America but we have them here and they are stronger again than a C4 and stronger and lighter than a FMX. When and more likely if my C4 fails this is what will be going behind my 408W.

I have been for a 30 min drive and there appears to be no shuddering but the power steering now seems to be vague when moving from center to left or right for the initial movement then seems to be tight for lack of better description. I will get a wheel alignment and see if this resolves this new issue.

After watching a video on line I reexamined my old parts and found the nylon washers in my old seals, I will mod the bracket another weekend as it is now after lunch on Sunday and I have just fitted and primed everything again. I am just cleaning up and about to have lunch then drop the car on its wheels and see what happens will keep you updated.

The drop bracket is as tight as I dare. The ram is tightened down until it is on the steel sleeve. Bled the system again yesterday before pulling out the control valve and there was no signs of aerated or frothy fluid. No shuddering when wheels are of the ground but as soon as you lower it enough that the wheels are just getting some weight on them it will shudder again. I will fit the control valve today I was hoping someone would have an answer nto my previous post about the missing washers.