Rsmach1

They look awesome, let us know how they work for you. Baer makes quality stuff.

Look into black chroming them. Edit, or powder coat, you would need to remove the chrome from the handles. Not my pics.

FYI they sell different insulators for the upper saddle to aid in installation, ie. 3core, 4core. CJPP sells them. There is a review on the 3core that someone left using them on a Griffin.

Your welcome

The middle hole. At least that's where it is on my 69 with dlx panels. Not my pics

Sounds very nice, find out what cam and let us know. Not my pic

Great advice Max Power. I also agree with Mike Stang, and the cam Barnett468 posted looks good also. The only problem with it is if you notice in bold letters NOT FOR EFI. So before you buy or choose a cam you need to come to a decision.... Are you going with EFI? or are you going with a carb? Once you decide let us know, and as you see, there is a ton of knowledge and experience here ready to help. Edit; Once you decide we can get more into cam choices.

To answer your question on runner size/volume, for the best low end performance you want smaller to keep the port velocity up at lower rpm. The 205s are for engines producing there hp at higher rpm's, they will kill all low rpm performance on your setup. Even the 185s are questionable for what you want, the 165s or eddy rpm's are a far better choice IMO. As I stated in an earlier post, call AFR and let them guide you.

Nice car 970fizz,always liked the look of minilites on these cars

After reading your post again and looking at your cam specs, and putting 2 n 2 together, you stated that you used a flat top with 4 reliefs. Most of the heads mentioned have a 60cc chamber which will put you probably in the 10.5:1 area. That is high for a mild cam that builds alot of cylinder pressure. Before you pull the trigger, might want to look into another head with more chamber volume. Anyone else care to chime in on this? Edit; What year block and what piston did you use exactly. Did the builder know you were going to use a mild cam?

OK was able to see your cam specs, that is a very mild cam, if you go with the AFR heads you would probably be best off with the 165's IMHO. If you went with the eddy's I'd go with the performer RPM's. The AFR's are probably the best heads on the market for windsors, the eddys are a decent entry lvl head that flow better than stock. If $ is not a concern go with the AFR Heads. I would call AFR and see what they recommend as they have done extensive dyno testing with there products and can tell you what will work best with your combo.

Yea repost cam specs, AFR heads are great, for great low end performance, I wouldn't go any bigger than there 185s, roughly $1600 bucks. If price is a concern you could go with Edelbrock heads, for what you are looking for (low end tq and hp) those would work also.

I drove a Flatbed for a number of years, BuckeyeDemons method for tie down is perfect.

When you say recommended psi are you talking the 35 max listed on the tire? If so you can air em down to 30 no problem, that might help your ride quality somewhat.

Personally I like Quick fuel carbs. http://www.quickfueltechnology.com/carburetors-hr-series/hr-750-hot-rod-series-carburetor.html

I would try replacing the rear del-a-lum bushings with stock rubber, that should soften things up a bit. Also what wheel/tire are you running out back, and at what psi?

Bored engines tend to run warmer, combine that with your 2500-3000 cruising rpm and a stock 2 core rad I'm actually surprised it doesn't overheat more. Adding A/C will most likely make it worse. I would definitely recommend going to a bigger better rad. If a quality aluminum is in your budget go that route. As JXL stated, check your lower hose, but I don't believe your rad is up to the task, especially since you plan on A/C. Just curious, is this an auto or manual car, if auto what stall converter do you have.

Loosing the 2 core is a good start, what type of fan are you running? If electric is it in front of the rad or behind? What mods have you done to the engine? How far is it bored? How much timing? There are a host of reasons that cause an engine to run warm, but going to a larger or aluminum rad is always a good idea. As 1969_Mach1 stated, Griffin makes a great rad, just keep in mind, the tune and cooling setup make a difference also. Edit; If your temp issue is only when it's hot outside, I'd say it's due to the lack of efficiency in the lil 2 core rad. Also if your car was originally equipped with the 20" consider upgrading to the 24". The radiator is the one thing that I say "Bigger is always better"

With only 11k mile car I would probably leave the patina as things are only original once. If the rim blow still works leave it, if not just replace that. As for value I think a purest would appreciate the patina and original parts, whereas the average Joe looking for a good low mile car wouldn't care if some things have been restored.

At least the shuddering is gone, wheel alignment will probably help.

Hope it works out for you.

Great mod Wycked69.

If your control valve seems to have missing parts I would not install it until you are sure. If you look for in I beleave the members area of the forum a member has made available the original shop manual for the 69, there you should be able to find a "factory" diagram of the unit. If you still find that there are possibly missing parts I would call someone like chokostang, or someone who is experienced with rebuilding these valves. As far as the bushings I mentioned, I've just never seen that much movement at the bracket, wasn't trying to beat a dead horse (no pun intended). Hopefully you can get this issue worked out and get that nice lookin car on the road again.

Thanks for chiming in 1969_Mach1, as I stated in my last post, the attachment at the drop bracket looks too loose, there is not nearly enough preload on the bushings as you noted also after watching the video. The end of the ram should NOT be able to move back and forth in the drop bracket.

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