Denver69

Is the Borgeson unit the new "Integral" steering box? I have the stock integral box on my '71 Boss 351 and it feels really good. I would be interested to hear about these also. It makes sense that the more moving parts you can eliminate, the better. As far as Flaming River goes, we installed a Flaming River unit on my son's '69 along with new tie rod ends and a rebuilt control valve from NPD and maybe we just got lucky but I have owned 12 vintage Mustangs over the years and this one handles the best by quite a bit. It is so good I bought one for my '68 and should have that on the road soon. Watch e-bay and you may find a good deal on one. I hope yours works out as well as our '69. Jeff

I was just looking at the steering linkage again last night. I installed a new control valve, would the number of turns the control valve is intalled on the drag link also affect the steering radius right vs left? Is there a standard starting point for this adjustment (like you should turn the control valve on until you see just three threads or something like that)? And what about the adjustment of the strut rods, it seems like that would have to be dictated by alignment, is that true? Thanks again.

Thanks so much for the guidance, I'll get under there and make the adjustments so the tie-rod lengths are about equal.

I recently rebuilt the entire front-end on my '68 Convertible. The problem is the car has a tighter turning radius going to the right than to the left. For example, if I'm going to park in a parking space, I just turn to the right and the car steers right in. But if the space in on the left and I turn the wheel to the left, the turning radius is so great that I overshoot the space and have to stop, back up a little and then pull in. Another way of saying it is I can easily make a U-turn on my street if I'm turning to the right, but have to stop and back up if going to the left or I run up over the sidewalk and neighbors grass. In looking at the steering set-up, I'm pretty certain that the amount the front wheels can turn is dictated by the end of the strut rod making contact with the spindle. I measuered the new tie rods that I installed and one side is definitely longer than the other by about an inch. Would this be the cause of the problem? Is there something else to check? Everything is new from the steering gear box to the strut rod bushings to the ball joints. Thanks for any suggestions. Jeff

Make sure you get a couple of cans of the SEMs prep. It is really important to use this before spraying your color coat. A couple of suggestions, if you are going to paint the metal part of your doors, use aircraft paint stripper to remove all of the old paint. Do NOT sand as you will remove the "grain" that is in the metal. The same holds true if you are doing the fiberglass panels that surround the rear seat on a fastback, don't sand off the texture. After stripping the paint, I spray on Simple Green, give it a very good scrub with a brush (the plastic kind you use to wash dishes with) or a sponge to get it super clean and then rinse with water. Dry with either fresh paper towel or compressed air if you have it. Spray on the Sems prep and then follow directions from there. I have dyed soft parts with the SEMS dye and they come out truly amazing and the finish lasts for many years if you take your time and do the prep right. Its all in the prep. Best of luck with your project.

Hi. I just received a new package tray for our 1969 Fastback without the fold down option. Should it be black? Should I paint it to match the red interior? Seems pretty straight forward to install but please let me know if there are any tricks. Thanks for your replies.

Hi. I just received a new package tray for our 1969 Fastback without the fold down option. Should it be black? Should I paint it to match the red interior? Seems pretty straight forward to install but please let me know if there are any tricks. Thanks for your replies.

I would not recommend sand blasting around engine parts. That stuff gets everywhere and it's impossible to get it all out. Sooner or later the media will find its way in to parts of the engine you don't want it to. Ask me how I know. I've used Aircraft Paint Stripper with great results. What I like is it won't ruin soft parts like rubber or plastic. Get gloves and work where you have a LOT of ventilation and be patient but it is another way to get good results.

I would not recommend sand blasting around engine parts. That stuff gets everywhere and it's impossible to get it all out. Sooner or later the media will find its way in to parts of the engine you don't want it to. Ask me how I know. I've used Aircraft Paint Stripper with great results. What I like is it won't ruin soft parts like rubber or plastic. Get gloves and work where you have a LOT of ventilation and be patient but it is another way to get good results.

MikeM, that is exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks for the pics, I'll pick up one of those this weekend. Happy Turkey Day.

I want to remove my steering box but I have a brand new Flaming River control valve. Can anyone tell me what tool to use or a good method for seperating the control valve from the pitman arm without pulling the stud up out of the control arm? Does someone offer a special puller tool for the job? In the past, when I used a pickle bar, it pulled the stud up out of the contol valve body and ruined the copper sleeve inside. Thanks for your advice.

Do a search for Shelby de Mexico and take a look at the '69s. These were all '69 coupes that were "Shelbyized" and sold in Mexico. Not many people know about these. Many years ago when I was in high school, I found an ad in the paper for a '69 Shelby that was really cheap. A friend of mine and I drove over and found this coupe sitting in the driveway with no hood and really ratty. I thought to myself, "no way is this a true Shelby because it's a coupe." We tried to start the thing and when a flame came out of the carb about four feet high (I'm not kidding), we jumped out of the car and ran for our lives. Looking back, it may well have been one of these. Lord it was a mess though.

Sounds like I'm going through the same thing you are. We have a '69 that we added a SSBC power brake system to. The brakes were really, really good until about a month ago. I noticed a hissing and the brake pedal became progressively harder, almost like a block of wood was stuck under the pedal. And the car would not stop well. I called SSBC and the tech recommended I take a Mity-Vac and hook it up to the hose running from the intake manifold to the booster, pump the mity vac up to 23 hg and let it sit. It should hold vacuum for 20 minutes he said or the diaphram in the booster is bad. Mine didn't hold vacuum for 20 seconds on any of 10 tries. So I have a new booster on order and hopefully, I'll be back to excellent braking. If the Mity-Vac does hold vacuum for you, you might check how much vacuum is coming out of your intake. It sounds to me like you are not getting assist from the booster.

sale-eqfvc-1447781479@craigslist.org Here is a link to a Mach for sale here in the Denver area. I have not seen it in person but looks like a nice car for just under $20K. Its been for sale for several months. I would make an aggressive offer on the car you are looking at, as a lot of posts have said, it's a buyers market, ESPECIALLY if you have cash!

Hello. Does your car have an automatic transmission? If so, when you are passing a car at 50, are you pushing the accelerator pedal to the floor? The reason I ask is Mustangs with automatic transmissions should have a "kick down" lever which is a rod that runs from the carburetor on the drivers side down to the transmission on the drivers side. The purpose of the "kick down" lever is to force the transmission to down shift or to "kick down" to a lower gear when the accelerator pedal is pressed to the floor. This helps immensely with passing cars when you need extra acceleration. Before rebuilding the carb, check to see if this rod is in place AND adjusted properly. If you have an automatic transmission, you may find this is all you need to make your car pass other cars better at higher speeds. I would be happy to help with any questions. Jeff