mjgraniero

+1 on this. I bought my car with the aftermarket hood trim and it just doesn't look right. Managed to find an original at Carlisle for a great price though.

Now offering 50% off, or best offer. Just pay shipping! I'm out of cash and need more parts for my rebuild! I'll update the list to remove what's been sold as well.

If you need another pedal support I have one that I pulled out of my auto/pb car that you can have. Just pay for shipping. The only marks on the support are the bushings where the clutch would attach. They were ground off a while back before it was decided to return the car to its original build (C-6 auto). My son put in a repro rather than use the original.

PM sent

I posted a list of parts for sale a while back and still have most. Offering 20% off to help cover shipping too. I can send photos if interested. -New repro A/T brake pedal. I ordered the wrong one over a year ago and just found out as we went to install. NPD lists for $80. Will sell for $60 Original parts: -floor console ash tray assembly, C9ZB65048A-AW. $60 -two backup lights, rough shape but could be restored, C7ZB154509A and C7ZB15515A. One has original lens screws. $20 -one front turn signal, rough but original lens with paint overspray. $10 -one sail panel light, very rough condition. $free, just pay shipping -deluxe door panel courtesy lights, pair, C9WB13739A and C9WB13745A. One needs wiring pigtail. $65 -one grille headlight bezel, has broken tab, RH C9ZB13061. $10 -one door panel walnut wood grain insert. Has some broken tabs $20 -pedal support, has clutch bushing ground off (was going to be replaced with new bushing). $25 -Pair of '70 door panels. Fair condition, usual cracks, etc on armrest but carpet seciton is in good condition. $50

RavenR, I've sent you a few messages a while ago and haven't heard back. Are the door panels still for sale?

At my 20th anniversary dinner, I talked my wife into letting me buy a classic mustang. It cost me a bottle of wine and agreeing to move the laundry room from the basement to one of the bedrooms on the main floor. So, I knocked the back wall of the garage down and rolled the car into the basement to work on during the winter (garage is a section of the basement in my house). After seeing all the time and money (mostly money) that I've put into it so far, I bet she's now thinking she got ripped off big time.

Sent you a PM about the door panels.

These are black and original. Has some cracking around the door cups and shows some wear. They would need some restoration but definitely not dyeable to white. It was worth asking I guess

Dave- I have two sets of all the trimmings so if you're looking to sell a set of panels I'm interested. Mike

+1 I have a relative with a 69 non-mach CJ (original owner) and the trim ring is semigloss black as well

I have a pair of 70 door panels that I can't use for my 69 Mach and would be interested in swapping with you, assuming they are in similar condition. PM me if you're interested. Mike

Brian, FYI- If my name looks familiar, we've chatted on the concourse forum about emissions decal location. I've been struggling with this same situation. I purchased repro lower radiator brackets from NPD but could not figure out how they are installed. My car came with no radiator or brackets so I assumed they bolted to the frame, but there's no way those brackets will hold the radiator if attached via bolts. I assumed I received the wrong brackets but this discussion is leading me to believe I may have the correct parts. Any chance you can give me a quick rundown on how they are installed? It looks to me (from your photos) that I need to ben them around the frame instead of bolting them to it. If that's the case, what keeps them from sliding rearward and the radiator moving out of position? Thanks, Mike

Unfortunately the photo sizes are too large to post on the forum and I'm not skilled enough with my iPad to reduce the file size and get them to fit. If interested just pm me your email address and the part(s) you're interested in. Mike

I have some parts for sale. Prices are OBO plus shipping. -New repro A/T brake pedal. I ordered the wrong one over a year ago and just found out as we went to install. NPD lists for $80. Will sell for $60 Original parts: -floor console support bracket. $20 -floor console ash tray assembly. $60 -Rear ash tray receptacle. $free, just pay shipping -cigarette lighter and receptacle housing. $10 -two backup lights, rough shape but could be restored. One has original lens screws. $20 -one front turn signal, rough but original lens with paint overspray. $10 -one sail panel light, very rough condition. $free, just pay shipping -deluxe door panel courtesy lights, pair. One needs wiring. $65 -one grille headlight bezel, has broken tab. $10 -one door panel walnut wood grain insert. Has some broken tabs $20 -transmission crossmember, 351 stamp. $25 -pedal support, has clutch bushing ground off (was going to be replaced with new bushing). $25 With the exception of the brake pedal these are all parts that came on the rolling '69 Mach 1 I bought a while back. If I'm unreasonably high with prices please let me know. If I'm underpriced on some items I'd appreciate hearing that as well. This is my first stab at selling some parts. PM me if you'd like part numbers that are on all parts. I'll try to post pictures in this thread. If you would like to see better pic angles, photos of part numbers, or better quality photos just pm me your email address. Trades accepted. I'm in need of parts for my build. Thanks, Mike

Proformance Unlimited has some very interesting stuff. Many of the builds on their website have links to youtube videos of the dyno run. http://www.proformanceunlimited.com/

I'm looking for a rim blow wheel if/when you decide to sell.

Yeah, it was all over the board for pricing schemes. Saw mach 1 instrument clusters as low as $300 for the pair and as high as $1,000 with only minor differences in condition. I did find a lot of cobra jet related items this year... more than last year. So that was a plus for my restoration. Prices on those were reasonable from two vendors but through the roof with the others.

PM sent

I have a non-a/c car

Thought the OP meant from the factory. I've heard of people doing this mod as well, you just need to install a seal between the hood and air cleaner. If you don't, your radiator's ability to cool will be affected. I've seen some where all they did was cut the hood opening assuming that fresh air into the engine compartment was a good idea, only to find out that the air flow coming from the hood affected air flow through the radiator and fan.

Kris, If RPM isn't interested I might be. Can you post or send me pictures and price? I just pulled my heater core and it looks like the previous owner broke off all the tabs and sealed the unit with caulk or glue. No idea if it works since the car is a rolling chassis (more or less). Mike

I've seen them on Q code 428 cobra jet mustangs (no shaker) and obviously the Boss429's, but not on any small block cars. I believe all the small blocks had a nonfunctional hood scoop.

We have it fit to the correct location and the movement isn't restricted. My concern is the closeness of the pedal to the firewall at rest and when depressed. It seems too close.