Kris

The chilton and haynes manuals I have have complete list off all bulbs. Also you can go to autozone.com and look up your car and find it that way.

Thanks, i know to use a waher under the regular bolt. I was just curious if there was a reason or advantage to using the ones that have the washer built onto them instead of a regular bolt with a seperate washer.

I have 2 69-70 heater boxes for sale. They are both complete and I am in the process of replacing all the components. I have new heater cores for both and new seal kits as well. The first box is in very good condition but has a small crack on the side where another part fell on it when it was on my shelf. It does not affect the box but will be easy to fix. This box is also missing a few clips and I do have the heater wiring harness for this one that goes with it. The other one has no broken parts or cracks but looks a little dried out. It is still solid and does not appear to be fragile. All of the flaps and internals are in good shape in both boxes with only surface rust. Both boxes are 100% originals and have working original blower motors. I am taking offers for them as they are or I will rebuild them and sell them as ready to be installed but the price will be significantly higher. I will not part them out so please DO NOT ask. A cheap repop box sells for $300 for just the box and they do not even fit correctly. Plus must of the parts that are sold for the cheap remakes do not even fit inside them so you still have to hunt down original parts anyways. Save yourself some time and get a complete original box with new parts to rebuild it with.

I had a different brand but looked similar. It was inside the nut end. After I got my old ones off, i decided to just get all new arms as there are very few threads on the control arm that hold the nuts in toght tight and I could never get it to stay even with them torqued down. I have heard this is a common issue. I would suggest just scrapping the old and selling off the parts you bought and get all new ones. Thats what I did. To me it wasnt worth the chance.

I am curious if there is any real reason to use the fender bolts that have the built on washer. I would assume that a regular bolt with a lock washer would work just as well as long as it was large enough to not have a change of going through the hole. I am wanting to use stainless bolts on most of my car but the stainless fender bolts are pretty high compared to regular stainless bolts and I have a ton of these. I have all the original hardware that was on my car also but really don't want to have to clean them and unless you take them and have them plated again they will rust rather quickly with just paint.

Depends on where you live and the shipping cost. I already have one offer for 415

I am open to offers. The worst I can say is no.

You can get powder coat in just about any color you can think of, even glow in the dark. Semi gloss black is available and satin black too.

You can buy replacements at most mustang parts stores. Check cj pony parts.

All of this stuff is available in repros and would provably be cheaper than most people want for good ones.

I have a new never installed classic auto air daily driver evaporator setup I am selling. I purchased it new and it was never installed. This is only for the unit that goes inside the car, nothing else. This is the unit that mounts under the bottom of the dash where the ash tray would be and under the glove box. It is all one unit and looks very nice. The only stuff you would need to have a complete setup is the under hood hoses, a compressor and bracket, a dryer and a condenser. I have decided to go with a in dash unit and replace all my heater components as well so I wont need this. I am asking $400 + shipping but am open to offers. This originally cost $1000 + tax and shipping so between $1200-1300 total, but was the complete setup. Would make a cheap upgrade for someone if they already had some of the needed parts or was willing to shop around to get them. I have uploaded a picture of what it looks like installed, this is just a picture I found and not my car and this unit has never been installed. Just thought it would be best for everyone to see what it looks like.

Looks different than what came on my 69 vert. Mine was not that wide and was the original trim. What body style is your car?

If he doesnt take them, I could really use the drivers door glass as long as it is clear. Thanks

Looks great to me. Nice job.

Sounds like your cylinders need to be replaced to me. They are pretty cheap though and from a safety aspect would be a good idea anyways.

Neutral safety switch plug for auto trans or reverse light switch plug for manual. Same plug just different part that plugs into it for different type of trans.

I looked at your link to get a better understand about what you are talking about. My car has absolutely no rust problems there. Your car seems to be a lot worse off than mine. My car was only driven until 1974 (which I have documented proof) and then parked indoors since then. I have to say I would not have repaired it the way you did. I would have cut it out and welded in a new piece instead of gluing it in. I would not trust that the glue wouldn't fail and cause leaks. After welding and grinding it smooth, if you wanted to be on the safe side you could put a coat of seam sealer on it or undercoat it.

I too have a convertible i am restoring and have not even checked this part yet. Will have to do so this week and see what it looks like. I would say that you will more than likely need to go buy some sheet steel the same thickness and just fabricate one.

My b&m mega shifter has 2 micro switches with 2 prongs each. One switch is for the neutral safety and the other is for the reverse lights. Each switch on mine gets 2 of the 4 wires so they are all used. No idea on yours having only one wire fitting.

I got the one i had off of ebay but it took me about 6 months for one to come up that was correct. Then after all that I ended up going with a different setup anyways. Go figure

You can get the drier from auto zone for $20. The compressor, most people go with a sanden 508 or similar style. Just make sure you verify if you are getting a 134a or r12 unit. Some people sell the r-12 and say it can be converted, which it can. But if you dont have one yet there is no point in doing that and spending the extra $. As for the universal condenser, I never found one that would fit without all kinds of modifications to anything else or that I could live with the look of. I ended up finding a guy that had a classic auto air one that looks like the original that I got super cheap. If you have ac already, and switch to a sanden compressor you will need new hoses too. And get an adapter bracket for mounting the compressor to the stock bracket or build one.

No the c4 linkage is different from the fmx. I just sold the only one I had. I believe only 69 c4 rod will work on 69. Even 70 is a little different because they added the lock out rod with it. The part number for the one you need is c9za-7326-d.

All i did was get a standard oil pan for a 69 302 and the correct pick up tube.

Forgot to mention, I am adding a vintage air ac setup as well.

I am wanting some opinions as to if I should upgrade my wiring harness. My original harness is fine and I have almost finished going through. I have removed all the old wrap and cleaned all the wires and terminal and connectors. I have also repaired the few spots, replaced a few wires and rewrapped it all. This being said I fave found a guy that has a new aaw setup for a 69 very very cheap and was wondering if I would be better off making the switch to that. My car is a convertible and will mainly be stock electrical wise except I am going to add a pair of rear courtesy lights since there are only the under dash ones. It has 56k documented original miles and was last tagged and driven in 1974 and has been stored indoors since then and not moved until I purchased it. Would it better to keep my original since it is all setup and just plug and go or should I get the aaw setup upgrade?