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69NC

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69NC last won the day on June 6 2016

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About 69NC

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    a shell of its former...
  • Birthday 09/03/1973

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  1. I used two small screw drivers and a needle nose vice grip to remove and install it.
  2. I use the Lord's fusor seam sealer. 123ez for primer and 019 for bare metal https://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/brands/fusor---aftermarket-repair-adhesives/fusor-seam-sealing-and-sound-control-products
  3. Look closely the top bolt eye piece is welded on.
  4. Did you check if the drive shaft is out of round? Or unbalanced? Try checking if the yoks are welded on center to the shaft and each other. That will cause a harmonic vibration as well. Just a thought.
  5. Good to know. I'll book mark this when I start to put my windows back in.
  6. Glad to see the overwhelming response.
  7. Another place to check is your ground strap between the motor and the chassis. If the motor is not well grounded, the added load of the lights will create a differential that could show up on the temp gauge. Ideally you should have two ground straps between the motor and the chassis.
  8. I'm not sure if it's because of the instant communication we have or has world gotten more populated with a-holes. This is just Sad http://www.thedrive.com/news/12475/asshole-torches-1970-ford-mustang-mach-1-owned-by-disabled-child
  9. For me I put the air intake box where the battery was. That way I could reuse the shelf and the vent slots for cold air intake. I'm running a coyote motor so the shock towers needed to go.
  10. They work great. The wheel is like a big eraser, it makes little rubber bits taking the stripes with them and leaving the paint untouched. I have used them multiple times to reduce dealer stickers on new cars.
  11. I have the AAW wiring kit. The diagram is fine, but I'm an electral engineer so reading wiring diagrams is second nature. Overall It's a good kit. I'm installing a lot of customizations so the AAW harness is good as it has plenty of extra circuits. It came with new tail light sockets, and the correct headlight switch. The only thing missing is the convertible top wiring, so I'll have to create that myself.
  12. It would be no different than the wires along since there's nothing that they are connected to. But if you looking in the engine bay it would look totally stock with the regulator and the wires. It really depends on the look you want.
  13. Why not gut a regulator. Then hook the wires up to your now dummy regulator. It will look stock.
  14. I Installed Tinman's subframe connectors. I had to trim the seat pans here is a link to my installation http://www.theracg.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_9508.jpg http://www.theracg.com/2012/10/seat-pans-and-the-subframe-connector/
  15. Glad you got it working! Can't wait to hear what the issue was.
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