shelbyshelby

Is the power steering pump from a 351C? Is the steering box wore out? I'd be interested in both if it was CHEAP, shipped to 42518

If your not worried about originality, Global West has a set that controls lateral movement better than the stock ones. They are high quality, couldn't imagine anything ever breaking them. When I bought mine, Summit racing was the cheapest, believe $180, expensive, but probably last a lifetime.

How do you want paid? For a small amount I like use cash to avoid fees. I have PayPal or money orders or whatever? Let me know the info to get you paid and the total I owe you. I will get it out Thursday. Thanks, Jeff

Heck yea! Let me know when you get it in hand.

How much to 42518?

Anybody have a dipstick and/or tube for a 351C forsale? I need both.

I haven't seen any 69 lower fender patch panels either. Who has them? I need one for each side.

Similar to a lower radiator mount, but you would have 2 of them, I don't know either. Somebody will know, give it some time.

Are you kin to David Copperfield? The frame seems to be floating in mid air!

Look behind the passenger side head, there should be a ground wire from the head to firewall. I think there is a ground to the body close to headlights also.

First thing that comes to my mind is to check the ground wires, particularly the engine to firewall ground.

I personally think the car is safer with a roll bar than without. It definitely has a little more strength. I drive a police car around for a living and have seen several police vehicles rolled over with the tops caved in except where the roll bar is located. Those guys are glad they had roll bars. There is plenty other hard surfaces to beat on your noggin that is closer and more apt to hit than the Shelby bar except for back seat passengers. I just don't buy into that concept that roll bars are unsafe without helmets. My 69 will have a roll bar in it also, likely a modified Shelby bar. Just my two cents worth.

Is the sway still for sale? If so, how much?

I always use the test light method to diagnose battery drain problems. Pull a battery cable off, either one. Use a test light that has a light bulb, not the LED type. Place the ground from the test light onto the battery cable, then using a pair of vise grips or hose clamp, or similar contraption to hold the test probe to the battery terminal. If you have battery drain, the test light will be brightly lit. You can then start unplugging components or fuses until the light dims or goes out, you have the problem. I have found many of these issues to be caused by properly charging alternators or voltage regulators staying turned on after the key has been turned off. Hope this helps.

Post any tips or troubles you had with this install, I'm about to purchase the bar also. Are you going to use it for the seatbelts too?

Mike65, I just done this to my drivers door last week with not so good results. 1st complaint, I used the dynacorn skin and the body lines aligned up nice except the bottom edge, which I can slide my pink into now. 2nd complaint, I cut small notches in the lip to weld back to the door frame. This caused a gentle wave across the bottom. 3rd complaint, I used the skin zipper tool. It worked on the sides after I got the lip folded with a hammer and dollie. The skin zipper did not work well on the bottom. It had interference withe bottom of the shell, causing it to cock the tool enough to put a small crease in the outer skin. Mine would require 2 welding rods welded to the bottom and some filler , so I gave up on it. I just hope the complete doors aren't too short. I would definitely buy a skinning hammer if I were to attempt it again, just for the bottom. A regular body hammer isn't long enough. I'm not trying to discourage you, just inform you of my mistakes. Hope yours turns out better. Btw, wait until you get the skin to remove the brace so you can see what comes with the new one. Don't forget to measure the width of the window channel, before you remove the brace. I used a cut off wheel to grind thru the spot welds on that brace, there is enough room in the inside of the door to do it.

you sure have something there.... something.... sorry, I don't have a clue.

Rubbing alcohol is about 20% water, I wouldn't try it in anything electronic.

I'm in need of a good 69 LH fender and LH door, if anybody has anything they are willing to part with. Cash waiting.

ok, i'm not in a hurry, I still have a couple months before the body will begin on mine. I was just trying to locate good oem before I ordered repo as a last resort. Thanks, I will watch for a post. PM me if I miss it.

I need drivers side fender if it can be used on a 69. I can patch the marker holes if that is the only difference. I'm in ky 42518, price including shipping.

Look behind the valance. If the quarter panel or even a lower patch has been replaced, there will be interference between the quarter and valance. If this is the case, removal of the valance and a little grinding will correct it. The replacement parts that I have used, Dynacorn and the canadian brand, have come with too much extra material at that location.

The cleveland came with a 164 tooth flywheel and probably 11.0 clutch. I think you will have to do the mini starter conversion to get the 157 tooth flywheel to work. If you have a 164 tooth bellhousing you maybe SOL. Hopefully the flywheel and bellhousing are the 157 version. The 157 tooth flywheel and mini starter are common to the fox body cars and is a good upgrade. Easier starting and header clearance+++

You could use a dura spark. The early ones even use a points type cap and wires. You have to wire in the module, the blue strain relief one.

That is a nice ride. I like the black stripes better though. I have never seen a white engine bay before. I hope my first test drive is that good. I bet you lose sleep thinking about this stuff.:rockon: