shelbyshelby

Just checking if the ac lower dash is available/condition? I’m in southern ky so I could possibly commute to pick up.

It’s the whole metal portion of the lower dash that I’m interested in. I think I can see this car has it uninstalled and laying in the floor. Does the cable feel smooth? From a V8 car?

Could also use an oem throttle cable if you have a decent one. My new plastic one feels awful.

I need a 69 ac lower dash. Looks like it’s uninstalled and laying in the floor. I’m in southern ky.

I like your settings, especially the zero camber. I’ve had up to 1.5 degrees camber and it just don’t feel good to me. I do like total toe at 1/8” better than 1/16” tire wear may suffer a tad though but they drive better imo at 1/8”. I’d like to see what others are running and satisfied with.

I had a 1970 tbird with a 429 and an oem Saginaw pump. Any chance those would fit?

I feel everyone will have different success stories. I started out trying to use the contact cement they sell as “headliner glue”. It dried hard as a rock and didn’t allow repositioning. I switched to 3M black weatherstripping glue and could reposition, even 2 weeks later. Being an amateur headliner installer, I couldn’t install in a day so it saved me. My method was get it tight/wrinkle free front/back, side to side and then do each corner. Mine turned out perfect but I was nearly 3 weeks doing it, readjusting to keep wrinkles out. Take pics of the screw holes before covering them up. I used big office clamps to hold mine, quick 1 hand operation. I used Dynamat and Dynaliner on the roof. I bought the tmi headliner which I thought was good quality. I also bought the tmi sail panels, disaster waiting to happen. Mine were flat, which pulled the clip from the backside when I bowed them in for the install. I ended up unsatisfied with the install and found ridgerunner on here that sells hand made fiberglass units that have the texture built in. They fit perfect and installed in 10 minutes. Also note which holes each bow comes out of. Mine had an upper and lower hole.

So I’ve been struggling to manipulate my hood pin cables to prevent wear on my fresh hood blackout. It’s not on the road yet but thinking about preventing damage here. I saw a survivor Mach 1 on eBay today. Its hood pins slide out the front. I have mine oriented where they slide out to the side. Which was is correct? Do you think either way would be better or worse? I’ve never gave it any thought til I saw it on this survivor car.

I’m not aware of any in the catalogs. A guy named midlife may be able to help. Would a good used one suffice?

Thank you for the compliments fella’s. I’ve spent 12 years on it so far. My career has had me busy so I didn’t get to work on it as much as I wanted. But it’s almost done. Door panels and front end alignment is all I like. I used this sites search button to help me a lot thru the restoration. It’s been my dream since I was 5 years old. I never gave up.

Thanks ridge. I ended up installing without painting it. It was shiny aluminum after stripping the paint but I think the anodizing stayed on.

Finished my hood details. Turned out ok. Couple things to watch out for. 1) the stencil adhesive stayed wet for like 3 hours in my 75 degree garage. I used a few drops of soap in my spray bottle. I wouldn’t use soap the next time. Id say the 3 hours is a good thing for lining up the 7 piece stencil. The gotcha is if you stretch it during lining up, you’ll come back after drying and a small gap in butt ends. Here’s a few pics. It’s plenty nice for me. Now I wish I could figure out how to keep the cables on the hood pins without damaging the new blackout when it gets roadworthy. If anyone wants to know, I used 2 coats of Sem 2k hot rod black.

I’m currently assembling my hood scoop on the Mach 1. The grille insert had green paint on it so I stripped it. Under the green paint had a layer of silver. Is the silver factory or did it come in a natural finish? Wonder if the silver is argent if that’s the original finish?

Rick at NPD confirmed today that the adhesive on their decal uses soap/water to apply them wet. You can adjust them until they dry. I will attempt to use my stencil in the next day or two.

I got my stencil from npd. It looks fine. It didn’t come with any instructions. Feels like I'm an amateur needing instructions for a sticker. Im debating using fine tape or the stencil. I think the stencil may be more accurate. I just don’t know if I can wet it with soap and water to apply and move around or not. Also if there’s do’s or don’t using them. Another curiosity is if the stencils have extra material, will overlaying the butt ends cause any issues. I will pm Rick from vmf if I can’t find the answers or bravery to commit to peeling the stencil.

Anybody used this before? I’m ready to black out my mach 1 hood and have the stencils in hand. Wondering if these stencils can be wet and adjust them until they dry or do they go on dry? Also, the stencil came in 7 pieces. Is it still easier to use the stencil or use fine line tape? If you have experience with the stencils and have any advice, I’m all ears.

Be careful putting insulation in. Least don’t be afraid to minimize it. I ordered the stock replacement and it’s a bit too much, may not be if you trim down, like an inch or 2 all the way around. If I ever need to take mine out, I will try a layer of sound deadner and remove the stock insulation. One more mention. The stock, fuzzy insulation, if I were to use, I’d install it first before painting. Get some over spray on it. That way if any of the panel was held out a smidge, the white insulation wouldn’t be visible. Well damn, yet 1 more mention. The sail needs a little bit of spongy towards the bottom to make it fit against the hockey trim. My originals had a remnant of foam there. I guess my thought would be to minimize the insulation towards the top. I have ridges panels and they fit like a glove. Far superior to the tmi panels imo. Just be conscience of getting too much thickness behind them.

There is a hole in the body for the clip to attach. My tmi sail panels just came unglued when I snapped it in. Ridgerunner on here makes nice fiberglass replacements if you want another option.

Thank you much bswor, I was nervous indeed. Glad to see it back.

Do you have it completely installed with weatherstripping and no issues?

Kris, which measurement did you use? I used 1” on the drivers door and the fit is perfect. Ready to do my passenger side and curious what you did.

I have that radio in my 69. I don’t have the bezel on yet, as it hits the FM/AM buttons. My bezel is aftermarket so I don’t care to notch it. Hope it don’t look too chopped after I do it or else I’ll switch radios. I’ll warn ya, those radios are not very loud. I don’t think any number of speakers will help much. To be fair I have a lot of high frequency hearing loss. I can’t hear mine with the windows down and traveling at any speed . Maybe yours will be better than mine. Mine came from a 1977 towncar in a wrecking yard.

I agree with the others. Another thing I did when I first acquired my 69, whenever I realized a part was missing or un-restorable I typed it in my notes in my iPhone 4. I just documented the parts I wanted to buy as good used ford parts, not new parts as they are available anytime (not as true today). The list got huge, but eventually I found the pieces at swap meets, search tempest/Craigslist and eBay and such. I met several new friends with much more knowledge than me. 13 years later (today) and up to an iPhone 13, I’m down to 1 passenger side door glass. Don’t give it up, 69 sportsroofs has been my fav since I was 5 yo. I can say it’s worth the effort. You’ll meet plenty car guys and gals to help guide you. RPM certainly put you onto the best names. Everybody on this forum loves to see pics and help out. Vmf is a good resource too but not as family like as 69Stang.

Thank you guys, you’ve answered my questions.

Great, what about the bolts? Silver cad or body color too?