bryonbush 85 Report post Posted December 3, 2017 On 11/30/2017 at 4:38 PM, newstang said: it kinda looks like this. except chrome. it has a controller that reverses polarity for the actuator motor. I ordered that same switch in chrome for my OD off switch. Works good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted December 4, 2017 On 12/2/2017 at 6:39 PM, Cantedvalve said: Actually, must of the parts to make it fixed are also part of the fold down. Rear seat upholstered parts are the same. There are a couple of trim pieces that need swapped. I think I have them around here someplace. You plan on keeping the fold down parts? I'm actually converting to... just need a few more pieces (the ones that are hard to find of course). actually, i only have the fold down part, i was looking around for the whole thing and the price everyone wants is far more than im willing to give them. that s why i figured just make it stationary and I could have a nice bass box :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted December 5, 2017 So are you doing a delete (like @RPM) or an actual seat? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted December 5, 2017 Ill still have the rear seat, just not fold down. it looks like it needs a panel in the rear called a package tray? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted December 5, 2017 Yes. There's is the package tray, the metal reinforcement below it, the two plastic/fiberglass pieces on each side, and the black trim for the seat panel (3 pieces). The interior quarter panels are the same, as are the hockey sticks and the sail panels. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted December 5, 2017 8 hours ago, Cantedvalve said: Yes. There's is the package tray, the metal reinforcement below it, the two plastic/fiberglass pieces on each side, and the black trim for the seat panel (3 pieces). The interior quarter panels are the same, as are the hockey sticks and the sail panels. cool, now i have to find this stuff, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted December 5, 2017 i found this on ebay, are these required too? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-1970-Mustang-Coupe-Rear-Package-Tray-Support-Brace-Passenger/142369004411?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-1970-Mustang-Coupe-Rear-Package-Tray-Support-Brace-Driver/142369008839?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-1970-Mustang-Coupe-Rear-Package-Tray-Metal-Panel-Sheet-Metal/142369001276?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted December 5, 2017 oh, never-mind, it says coupe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted December 5, 2017 Hey, it says coupe :-) going from fold down to fixed is all bolt-on parts. No welding or cutting needed. You need these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NON-FOLD-DOWN-SEAT-TRIM-PAINTED-BLACK-MUSTANG-65-66-67-68-69-70/362021804721?fits=Model%3AMustang&hash=item544a2e5ab1:g:6g4AAOSwPWRZUoyS&vxp=mtr and these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/69-70-Mustang-Fastback-Non-Fold-Down-Rear-Seat-Quarter-Trim/112647080873?hash=item1a3a4a0ba9:g:1NUAAOSwbtNaEOmI&vxp=mtr and the package tray support: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mustang-Package-Tray-Shelf-Fastback-1969-1970-Dynacorn/182111090293?hash=item2a66aab675:g:rLQAAOSwYmZXImCj&vxp=mtr and the package tray: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mustang-Package-Tray-Fiberglass-Fastback-1969-1970/382242488288?hash=item58ff6d7fe0:g:Xf0AAOSw-0xYPZu6&vxp=mtr ...and those are the major parts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted December 5, 2017 8 minutes ago, Cantedvalve said: Hey, it says coupe :-) going from fold down to fixed is all bolt-on parts. No welding or cutting needed. You need these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NON-FOLD-DOWN-SEAT-TRIM-PAINTED-BLACK-MUSTANG-65-66-67-68-69-70/362021804721?fits=Model%3AMustang&hash=item544a2e5ab1:g:6g4AAOSwPWRZUoyS&vxp=mtr and these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/69-70-Mustang-Fastback-Non-Fold-Down-Rear-Seat-Quarter-Trim/112647080873?hash=item1a3a4a0ba9:g:1NUAAOSwbtNaEOmI&vxp=mtr and the package tray support: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mustang-Package-Tray-Shelf-Fastback-1969-1970-Dynacorn/182111090293?hash=item2a66aab675:g:rLQAAOSwYmZXImCj&vxp=mtr and the package tray: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mustang-Package-Tray-Fiberglass-Fastback-1969-1970/382242488288?hash=item58ff6d7fe0:g:Xf0AAOSw-0xYPZu6&vxp=mtr ...and those are the major parts thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted February 6, 2018 Sorry no updates lately, I just bought my industrial condo and epoxied the floors and added another lift. One is simply not enough !! The bad part is , I find myself mopping the floor every time i do anything. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted March 16, 2018 Started working on the hood today, I skinned a 71-73 NASA hood and began fitment on the 69 hood frame. After i get it close, ill separate it and send it out for media blast. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bryonbush 85 Report post Posted March 17, 2018 Man that hood will look cool once it's finished Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Padrino 5 Report post Posted March 17, 2018 Wow, wow, wow! Absolutely stunning! There’s got to be an extremely incredible feeling of satisfaction with this level of work. Much respect! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted March 17, 2018 Thanks, I let you know how satisfied I am when its done :-) There are so many differences in the shape of these hoods that bracing it becomes the challenge. I just had to do this. the Shelby one I hate, it looks like swiss cheese, and the stock one is played out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
50dan 25 Report post Posted March 17, 2018 Holy Shit you do some seriously nice work!! You dont do body work for a living do you? Can you build me one of those hoods too? LOL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted March 17, 2018 no, i actually manufacture fireplaces, but its all metalwork. Im sure my body guy will have his work cut out to make it perfect. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigmal 225 Report post Posted March 18, 2018 Looking forward to the finished product. Looking great. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted March 18, 2018 I did this several years ago ,i made a hammer form from 3/16 flat strap and black pipe that matched the arch of the 67 under bracing and folded the edges of the 73 hood on the hammer form and crimped it over a 67 hood frame ,it turned out great ,wish i still had the pixs ,it actually took very little body work to finish out. A couple of new dynacorn hoods would probably have good results Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted April 4, 2018 I decided I don't need fresh air, just a/c and exhaust fumes for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69Stanger408 82 Report post Posted April 5, 2018 Regarding the vintage air, assume you went with the bulkhead, do you have some close up's of what you did...can barely see it in this pic? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted April 5, 2018 12 hours ago, 69Stanger408 said: Regarding the vintage air, assume you went with the bulkhead, do you have some close up's of what you did...can barely see it in this pic? i sent it through the fenderwell. just rubber grommets.. I used the EX clip tubing and although it is nice and clean, it is expensive. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69Stanger408 82 Report post Posted April 5, 2018 Not that it helps now, but the crimp on style are much more cost effective at ~$110, even with the purchase of the ~$130 Master Cool crimping tool (from amazon). Do appreciate the pic. Did you use the vintage air bulk head, or grommet and insulation wrap? Can I bug you for an inside pic? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted April 5, 2018 2 hours ago, 69Stanger408 said: Not that it helps now, but the crimp on style are much more cost effective at ~$110, even with the purchase of the ~$130 Master Cool crimping tool (from amazon). Do appreciate the pic. Did you use the vintage air bulk head, or grommet and insulation wrap? Can I bug you for an inside pic? yea, I saw that, but these are much easier to do and much thinner tube too. I just used a large rubber grommet from a ECM I had laying around. Did you want inside the car or engine? Wont be able to see much inside, the lower dash is already in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69Stanger408 82 Report post Posted April 5, 2018 Was interested in the under dash, around the evaporator and penetration point. I have the bulkhead connector kit along with the hose kit, seems like a straight forward process. Since I smoothed over my firewall my location points are gone. Figured I'd hang the front, then level out and mark the inner firewall. Any tips to make it easier? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites