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Another Mach1 Coyote restomod Basket case.

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I primed it today with Roberlo DTM primer. looks like liquid cement. even using a 2.0 I had to thin it a bit and it still came out powdery-ish. 

So being i am not confident in body work and paint AT ALL, i started you tube-ing..

I cam across Rich (MTF) doing a door, and let me tell you im sure i will not have the patience to give a door or fender 2 hours. I wish some of you guys were closer I would give it to you guys to do.

I found this guy on youtube, Funny shit!!

 

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Hoping a body pro can chime in here.

I block sanded the roof today with 320 on a long block

I hit metal a few times in spots and the darker areas are the lows. For the life of me when i run my hand across it i can not feel any high spots, but clearly there are.It feels flat to me.

any advice? Also, should i reshoot primer on the roof again?

 

BTW, Wow does this stuff make serious dust!

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Hard to explain , but when you have a sharp line of metal showing through it is usually a ring around a dent ,they can be very slight or a big divot . I have been using a slap file on these rings while pushing up on the center of the dent ,you only want to slap the ring and those dents will pop back up,keep the file as flat as possible ,yes a regular file will also work if you can hit flat with it 

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7 hours ago, Ridge Runner said:

Hard to explain , but when you have a sharp line of metal showing through it is usually a ring around a dent ,they can be very slight or a big divot . I have been using a slap file on these rings while pushing up on the center of the dent ,you only want to slap the ring and those dents will pop back up,keep the file as flat as possible ,yes a regular file will also work if you can hit flat with it 

i get it now, i guess its like if you were to push in on the roof it would make a ripple.

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I give you guys that do bodywork props!! 

I don't know how the hell you do it, but it is an art.

I cant seem to feel no matter how much i try to correct, i screw it up even more. 

I have a spot that feels lumpy from trying to correct it.

I am going to buy one of those shrinking discs now to attempt tp help. looks like all the problem areas are where the frame under the roof is and trying

to get to it, i make more dents. I tried the torch method on a fender and gave it a tumor instead of shrinking it :-) 

Im going to need one of you geniuses to move here to help. Forget the warm weather where you are, come hang out in 12 degree weather. You'll feel good about it :-)

 

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Usually what happens is a kid once climbed on the roof ,or someone put something heavy on the roof ,the ones around the edge are probably SOB dents ,thats when the car dies on the free way for no particular reason and you get out and pound your fists on the roof shouting YOU DIRTY SOB!

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2 hours ago, Ridge Runner said:

Usually what happens is a kid once climbed on the roof ,or someone put something heavy on the roof ,the ones around the edge are probably SOB dents ,thats when the car dies on the free way for no particular reason and you get out and pound your fists on the roof shouting YOU DIRTY SOB!

Its about to get another SOB dent from me :-)

 

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 On stretched (dented) areas, a shrinker disc will do wonders, and you can get great results in no time. Try it out on your goose egg on your fender to practice, I bet you can repair it as well. 

Try using a thin piece of cloth between your hand and the panel to help you feel the high and low areas. Don't use your fingers but rather the palm of your hand. You will get to where you can feel these imperfections and the cloth will not be need. Worked for me...

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16 hours ago, latoracing said:

 On stretched (dented) areas, a shrinker disc will do wonders, and you can get great results in no time. Try it out on your goose egg on your fender to practice, I bet you can repair it as well. 

Try using a thin piece of cloth between your hand and the panel to help you feel the high and low areas. Don't use your fingers but rather the palm of your hand. You will get to where you can feel these imperfections and the cloth will not be need. Worked for me...

Thanks! you motivated me to buy a shrink disk. it tried it on my fender that i welded a patch on, it works amazing!

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23 hours ago, newstang said:

i dont, it was years ago on ebay, i think i still have a set around.

 

I tried to buy a pair of them on ebay last week. The seller was in France. I messaged him to ask him a question. As soon as I showed interest in them he raised the price 25% and increased his shipping fee to the U.S.  He showed photos from several angles and they actually are quite simple. I can easily replicate the function and even improve the looks on the set I build.

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22 minutes ago, mwye0627 said:

I tried to buy a pair of them on ebay last week. The seller was in France. I messaged him to ask him a question. As soon as I showed interest in them he raised the price 25% and increased his shipping fee to the U.S.  He showed photos from several angles and they actually are quite simple. I can easily replicate the function and even improve the looks on the set I build.

It will do you no good unless you have the section of the door skin it sits into as well as the part behind it.

 

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i found another set of door handles and somewhere may have more in a box.

If anyone is interested they are $150 plus ship. for the set with the door skin section which is the most important part along with the steel brace behind it.

the buttons on this set is a bit banged up but still not bad.

Some guy on ebay england sells the door handles new but without the parts needed for mounting.

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22 hours ago, newstang said:

It will do you no good unless you have the section of the door skin it sits into as well as the part behind it.

 

Whatever type handle I make, I have a press and a CNC mill and I will make a small stamping die and make my own panel with a relief for the handle assembly. I'm just not a big fan of the Kindig-it type door handles. They seem like they could allow water to get into the door, so whatever I design will have to be water tight like your Fiat handles.

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16 hours ago, mwye0627 said:

Whatever type handle I make, I have a press and a CNC mill and I will make a small stamping die and make my own panel with a relief for the handle assembly. I'm just not a big fan of the Kindig-it type door handles. They seem like they could allow water to get into the door, so whatever I design will have to be water tight like your Fiat handles.

i agree about the kindig, aside from that they are played out.

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11 hours ago, mustangstofear said:

Kindig is way to heavy and over priced. 

And I really don't like to have a door handle assembly that must be welded into the door.  That's why I like Newstang's handles. They are easily serviceable if necessary.

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On 1/24/2020 at 2:25 PM, mwye0627 said:

I tried to buy a pair of them on ebay last week. The seller was in Fran BoldKeyboard shortcut Command+Bce. I messaged him to ask him a question. As soon as I showed interest in them he raised the price 25% and increased his shipping fee to the U.S.  He showed photos from several angles and they actually are quite simple. I can easily replicate the function and even improve the looks on the set I build.

Here is the mod i did for the door handles. i made a replacement for the latch out of ⅛ stock/ the original part is cast aluminum?

that would probably break if you tap the 8-32 thread into it.

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