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Ridge Runner

Lets Make A Fiberglass Hood .

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This is mold wax ,it is pure carnuba wax but much thicker than car wax and harder to work with. Two coats should be applied ,especially with those deep pockets.

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I put two coats  on ,but i did small spots at a time because it is so hard to work with.You can see the difference in color and shine right away.

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It is ready for tomorrow morning to start in on the top skin mold.

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I used 6 layers of 2 inch masking tape to make the edge flange

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I sprayed 3 coats of mold release ,it dries like a thin sheet of plastic.

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Gel coat time .Two coats of black tooling gel coat .

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I set the first sheet of 2oz mat on the hood .

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I wet down half of the hood with ISO resin ,to do the whole thing at one time could cause a big problem if it hardened on me

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The first layer is done ,it will dry until tomorrow when i will add the last 5 layers .There will still be a bit of work to do before the top panel mold will be usable .

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Man It's looking GOOD.

 

You thinking about drilling holes for the standard Mustang Hood pins or you going to leave that for the end user?

 

Don't forget the holes for the chrome trim across the front of the hood.

 

I wish there was a better way to attach that piece beside those cheezy little clips that were standard, Seems mine always come loose or people bend the chrome.

 

So when you start kicking out hoods for sale will they come ready to paint or will they still need prep work?

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I added 2 more layers late last night and finished the top mold this morning .I built a box on top of the mold that fits tight to the mold ,stapled some mat to the box ,wet it down and rolled it out with my roller .Now every hood that comes out of the mold will be the same because the steel hood is still in the mold .I have to add a couple of 2x4s in the middle of the box so it will set on my cart ,trim the exes material away ,cut some holes for clamping and then i can remove the metal hood from the mold .

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Man It's looking GOOD.

 

You thinking about drilling holes for the standard Mustang Hood pins or you going to leave that for the end user?

 

Don't forget the holes for the chrome trim across the front of the hood.

 

I wish there was a better way to attach that piece beside those cheezy little clips that were standard, Seems mine always come loose or people bend the chrome.

 

So when you start kicking out hoods for sale will they come ready to paint or will they still need prep work?

 

All fiberglass needs prep work ...All metal parts need prep work before paint . If i did this right ,and i am pretty sure i did ,the prep work will be very minimal ..

The hood molding holes will be drilled but the hood pins will not .

 

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I filled in the bottom of the box with 2x4s ,turned it over and hole sawed the clamping holes .IMG_0430_zpsnsfoilb3.jpg

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I peeled the masking tape off then i trimmed the exes material away and sanded the flange flush with the bondo on the back lip of the hood .

 

The hood lifted right out of the mold with out any problems .

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Remember the liquid mold release i sprayed ? it sticks to the mold because the hood was waxed ,it peeled right out .The mold is still not ready to use though .It has to be sanded with progressive grit wet paper until i get to 600 grit and then it will be waxed and it will be ready to use .

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The steel hood came out with out any damage so i think i will hang it on the wall ,i may want to use it to make another mold some day.

The under brace will be next ,i have to make one ,cut it to fit then make the mold .

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DAMMIT MAN!!!!

Awesome work.

That thing turned loose easily and looks slick to boot.

Just pop some hinge bolt plates in it mold the bottom piece in and slap a hood latch rod in it and send it on to Louisiana, you wont have anyone else that will ever want on but me, but thats ok because I like to be unique, thats why my car is GREEN HAHA.

Seriously tho awesome work, cant wait to see the finished product so get on the sand paper and finish that Mold so u can pop out a hood for me :-)

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I'm still trying to understand how you will make another hood tho.....

I'm assuming you will make a top piece off the top of the hood and a bottom from the bottom and then bond them together correct?

This stuff always fascinates me, Wish you were closer I would be over there getting fiberglass all over me to.

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I'm still trying to understand how you will make another hood tho.....

I'm assuming you will make a top piece off the top of the hood and a bottom from the bottom and then bond them together correct?

This stuff always fascinates me, Wish you were closer I would be over there getting fiberglass all over me to.

Correct ,a top piece then the bottom piece and bond the two together .It will be basically  what i just did to make the mold ,but in reverse .

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And its going along faster than I expected LOL

 

And its going along faster than I expected LOL

There is still quite a bit of work to do ,there is still the under brace .

 

I plan on doing the trunk lid and end caps and the sail panels when i get the chance.I have a Shelby trunk lid and end caps i can modify ,i will have to find a coupe though to make the pieces on. The tail panel will be just the Shelby panel.

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I'm really impressed with your skills and the time it took from start to finish. 

You should start a side business!  The Hood looks GREAT!

 

As Mike previously said, I too would love to get 2010-2012 GT/V6 Hood on my car.

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I gel coated the under brace mold this morning .

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I used 3 layers of 2oz mat .

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The hinge area will have a 12 in piece of 1 1/2 x 3/16 plate steel for the hinge mounting ,they will be drilled and threaded .I embedded the plate in two layers of mat on top of the 3 layers of the brace its self ,it will be strong enough to be able to use the stock springs on the hinges

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I will trim it out tomorrow then i will see what i need to do to shorten it .It will have to be shortened in front of the hood latch because both the long and short hood will have the front latch in the same location.The front latch plate will be pop riveted inside the under brace and will use the factory catch bar .

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