holley runing rich all the time

[juit 34]

thats what I told him

 

havent install em

[juit 34]

thats what I told him

 

havent install em

[barnett468 418]

you can change the jets with the carb on the car.

 

remove fuel line

 

put some paper towels under the front bowl

 

get two spray can lids . . you may need to notch them it but i never do

 

remove one of the bottom screws while holding the lid under it so it can drain into it.

 

you may need the second cup but but i never do.

 

after its empty simply remove the bowl.

 

.

[barnett468 418]

you can change the jets with the carb on the car.

 

remove fuel line

 

put some paper towels under the front bowl

 

get two spray can lids . . you may need to notch them it but i never do

 

remove one of the bottom screws while holding the lid under it so it can drain into it.

 

you may need the second cup but but i never do.

 

after its empty simply remove the bowl.

 

.

[juit 34]

crafted a pvc drain device to drain it from a screw hole wooohooo

 

I dont take fuel line I like to keep it extreeme :0

 

they are installed

 

Ill post results later on

 

thanks :)

Edited October 27, 2014 by juit

[juit 34]

crafted a pvc drain device to drain it from a screw hole wooohooo

 

I dont take fuel line I like to keep it extreeme :0

 

they are installed

 

Ill post results later on

 

thanks :)

Edited October 27, 2014 by juit

[juit 34]

just a Q

 

when I install the Vac can how much advance its gonna need?

[juit 34]

just a Q

 

when I install the Vac can how much advance its gonna need?

[barnett468 418]

hello . . ok jets are in great . . you want to turn screw in until it barely stops then turn it out around 6 turns to start with . . after you adjust it set yourtiming to 12 again feel for vacuum at the ported port on the passenger side of the carb . . there should not be any . . plug hose inin there . . you want it to add 6 to 8 degrees so rev engine to 2000 and see if it runs smooth then rev to 3500 and see if it runs smooth and see what timing is. . . if it does run rough then turn screw out 1 turn and try again.

Edited October 28, 2014 by barnett468

[barnett468 418]

hello . . ok jets are in great . . you want to turn screw in until it barely stops then turn it out around 6 turns to start with . . after you adjust it set yourtiming to 12 again feel for vacuum at the ported port on the passenger side of the carb . . there should not be any . . plug hose inin there . . you want it to add 6 to 8 degrees so rev engine to 2000 and see if it runs smooth then rev to 3500 and see if it runs smooth and see what timing is. . . if it does run rough then turn screw out 1 turn and try again.

Edited October 28, 2014 by barnett468

[juit 34]

thanks

 

OK took it to the highway to do some tests

 

still smelling fumes

 

afr led will disapear in lean at 60 miles on 5fth gear

also disapears 3 gear 37

 

engine runs strong but smelly

 

ordered a 1/2 spacer and the springs arrive tomorrow

my gas reg arrives today

Edited October 28, 2014 by juit

[juit 34]

thanks

 

OK took it to the highway to do some tests

 

still smelling fumes

 

afr led will disapear in lean at 60 miles on 5fth gear

also disapears 3 gear 37

 

engine runs strong but smelly

 

ordered a 1/2 spacer and the springs arrive tomorrow

my gas reg arrives today

Edited October 28, 2014 by juit

[barnett468 418]

thanks

 

OK took it to the highway to do some tests

 

still smelling fumes

 

afr led will disapear in lean at 60 miles on 5fth gear

also disapears 3 gear 37

 

engine runs strong but smelly

 

ordered a 1/2 spacer and the springs arrive tomorrow

my gas reg arrives today

 

ok thanks for an update

 

did you floor it from a stop?

 

drive 60 mph in 4th gear and tell me what it does.

 

you can try 1 step richer jet then that's it, you're done or it will blubber when you accelerate hard from a stop i guarantee you.

 

please throw your afr away it is totally useless because you can nit tune a carburetor with then . . you do not have computer fuel injection so you will never, ever, ever, ever, ever, have perfect afr . . you need to buy a new car if you want perfect afr, lol.

 

 

you have an exhaust leak or a fuel leak like i said. again, it is not from your carb setting . . find the leak and fix it.

 

if your exhaust pipes are cut short by the axle you will smell exhaust.

.

Edited October 28, 2014 by barnett468

[barnett468 418]

thanks

 

OK took it to the highway to do some tests

 

still smelling fumes

 

afr led will disapear in lean at 60 miles on 5fth gear

also disapears 3 gear 37

 

engine runs strong but smelly

 

ordered a 1/2 spacer and the springs arrive tomorrow

my gas reg arrives today

 

ok thanks for an update

 

did you floor it from a stop?

 

drive 60 mph in 4th gear and tell me what it does.

 

you can try 1 step richer jet then that's it, you're done or it will blubber when you accelerate hard from a stop i guarantee you.

 

please throw your afr away it is totally useless because you can nit tune a carburetor with then . . you do not have computer fuel injection so you will never, ever, ever, ever, ever, have perfect afr . . you need to buy a new car if you want perfect afr, lol.

 

 

you have an exhaust leak or a fuel leak like i said. again, it is not from your carb setting . . find the leak and fix it.

 

if your exhaust pipes are cut short by the axle you will smell exhaust.

.

Edited October 28, 2014 by barnett468

[juit 34]

Tha car has never smell that intense

 

Yes i know about afr Im just using is an a aprox tool not like a accurate

[juit 34]

Tha car has never smell that intense

 

Yes i know about afr Im just using is an a aprox tool not like a accurate

[barnett468 418]

cant help you with the smell . . never heard of that before . . if you just switched to winter blend gas that wil do it.

[barnett468 418]

cant help you with the smell . . never heard of that before . . if you just switched to winter blend gas that wil do it.

[1969_Mach1 333]

Tha car has never smell that intense

 

Yes i know about afr Im just using is an a aprox tool not like a accurate

 

This post has been interesting and I have learned how to recurve a stock Ford distributor. I am not certain is causing the smell. I just would like to throw this out. I know you followed all the instructions and your car runs a lot better. But are you certain it is not detonating (pinging) with the new advance curve and maybe its hard to hear over the exhaust noise. I've experienced more intense exhaust smell when motors start detonating.

[1969_Mach1 333]

Tha car has never smell that intense

 

Yes i know about afr Im just using is an a aprox tool not like a accurate

 

This post has been interesting and I have learned how to recurve a stock Ford distributor. I am not certain is causing the smell. I just would like to throw this out. I know you followed all the instructions and your car runs a lot better. But are you certain it is not detonating (pinging) with the new advance curve and maybe its hard to hear over the exhaust noise. I've experienced more intense exhaust smell when motors start detonating.

[MikeStang 247]

Isn't strong exhaust gas smell due to raw fuel burning off in the exhaust, meaning either not enough idle timing or way to much fuel

[MikeStang 247]

Isn't strong exhaust gas smell due to raw fuel burning off in the exhaust, meaning either not enough idle timing or way to much fuel

[juit 34]

This post has been interesting and I have learned how to recurve a stock Ford distributor. I am not certain is causing the smell. I just would like to throw this out. I know you followed all the instructions and your car runs a lot better. But are you certain it is not detonating (pinging) with the new advance curve and maybe its hard to hear over the exhaust noise. I've experienced more intense exhaust smell when motors start detonating.

 

 

Ill lower the timing to 10 and see what happens

 

Me too Ive learned tons from barnette

 

I would like to change the spring for 1 of the kit o Mr gastkets maybe that one is giving problems at hi speeds

 

 

Isn't strong exhaust gas smell due to raw fuel burning off in the exhaust, meaning either not enough idle timing or way to much fuel

 

I dont think its raw fuel, on the driveway it does not smell it only does when I cruise at hi speeds

 

 

its more like lean smell

 

Im gonna look for a stock 302 air filter unit and see if its because of my open element

Edited October 29, 2014 by juit

[juit 34]

This post has been interesting and I have learned how to recurve a stock Ford distributor. I am not certain is causing the smell. I just would like to throw this out. I know you followed all the instructions and your car runs a lot better. But are you certain it is not detonating (pinging) with the new advance curve and maybe its hard to hear over the exhaust noise. I've experienced more intense exhaust smell when motors start detonating.

 

 

Ill lower the timing to 10 and see what happens

 

Me too Ive learned tons from barnette

 

I would like to change the spring for 1 of the kit o Mr gastkets maybe that one is giving problems at hi speeds

 

 

Isn't strong exhaust gas smell due to raw fuel burning off in the exhaust, meaning either not enough idle timing or way to much fuel

 

I dont think its raw fuel, on the driveway it does not smell it only does when I cruise at hi speeds

 

 

its more like lean smell

 

Im gonna look for a stock 302 air filter unit and see if its because of my open element

Edited October 29, 2014 by juit

[barnett468 418]

ok . . your timing is xlnt now . . reducing your timing will make your enginne run hotter because it is not tuned properly for performance . . when the engine runs hotter it increases te temperature of the exhaust . . this hot exhaust gas burns more of the hydrocarbons in the gas . . the ess hydrocarbons there are the less the exhaust smells like gas and the more it smells like exhaust . . if the smell is coming from the exhaust you have a problem with your exhaust system and leaking seals in the body . . the trunk seal is occasionallyy the problem . also the rubber on the gas tank filler neck can leak fumes . . if you open your trunk and it smells like gas your seal is leakin . your gas cap also has a vennt that occasionally gets plugged after many years this can force fumes past the filler neck seal . . . oen elements often smell like gas especially if it has alcohol in it . . the engine does not suck all the gas fumes into it so some come out the top of the carb and thru the air filter and get blown against the firewallat around 10 million miles an hour by the rad fan spinning at 3000 rpm . . and some of these fumes exit from the hood by the windsheild and go right into your cowl vebt in front of the window and into the car . . there is supposed to be rubbeseals on the gas pedal and brake pedal and clutch pedal rods . . they are always broken after 50 years so the fumes are easily forced thru these holes . . also if you do not have a vent hose going to a closed element air cleeaner you will get a ton of fumes fron the crank case . . put a closed ekement filter on it put a hose from the engine to the air cleaner . . fix the leaks in the firewall put a cover on the cowl vent . put a new rrubber seal at the back of the hood . replace missing rubber plugs in floor pan under seat area . . . . no more smell from engine . . . . . les . . . . hosr grcomewille enteringcarandburns . .

Edited October 29, 2014 by barnett468