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juit

holley runing rich all the time

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I'll put premium gas and see what happens,

also put it on 12 degrees on idle

vac can is plugged

 

yesterday I almost empty the tank driving my kid back and forth on the car

 

the neighbors were :osama::ph34r::huh::whistling::tongue:

 

 

no, no, no, no, don't change the gas type . . it will not run any better and may mask/hide any detonation.

 

keep using what you have been . . using 87 or 89 is better than using 91 because it will show detonation easier.

 

instead of getting gas you could be installing that spring before i die of old age, lol.

.

.

Edited by barnett468

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[quote name=barnett468;

instead of getting gas you could be installing that spring before i die of old age' date=' lol.

.

.[/quote]

 

HA HA HA Thats funny you sound like you maybe around my age. I started a restoration on a 69 mustang two years ago and now wondering if I got enough years to finish it.

 

Dave

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[quote name=barnett468;

instead of getting gas you could be installing that spring before i die of old age' date=' lol.

.

.[/quote]

 

HA HA HA Thats funny you sound like you maybe around my age. I started a restoration on a 69 mustang two years ago and now wondering if I got enough years to finish it.

 

Dave

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I just did this 2 things: put 89 octane gas lowered to 12 deg @ idle

 

I was calibrating the car with USA regular W ethanol, then I forgot that I put reg gas from Mex I always use premium from Mex no Ethanol and works very well its like the 87 from USA, they didn't had at the pump at that time so I went with regular

 

when I have a chance Ill put regular from exxon from the gas station that I use on USA and see what happens

 

with My left overs of regular Mex gas it lowered the smelly fumes

 

with premium Mex gas "regular Usa" got this results:

 

had some minor knoking only can be herd if I put my head inside the engine bay

 

lowered a bunch smelly gas

 

my flow master droning has gone because it was at 2000 2200 rpm range at 65 MPG

 

hesitation almost gone "prolly accelerator pump adj"

 

only thing, yes I know AFR is worthless but still need to ask

it shows is too lean can this hurt my engine when traveling at 60 MPH? my RPM range is 1500 @ this speed before was at 2000 wich is wierd

 

 

 

this got nothing to do with the thread but I just ordered a avenger 570 and selling this carb :) mainly because it will be on my CFM range and like the second metering block with jets with adjustable vacuum sec quick

 

Ill report back if I got a better MPG or other result to update

 

 

 

.....

 

instead of getting gas you could be installing that spring before i die of old age, lol.

.

.

 

 

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHA

Edited by juit

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I just did this 2 things: put 89 octane gas lowered to 12 deg @ idle

 

I was calibrating the car with USA regular W ethanol, then I forgot that I put reg gas from Mex I always use premium from Mex no Ethanol and works very well its like the 87 from USA, they didn't had at the pump at that time so I went with regular

 

when I have a chance Ill put regular from exxon from the gas station that I use on USA and see what happens

 

with My left overs of regular Mex gas it lowered the smelly fumes

 

with premium Mex gas "regular Usa" got this results:

 

had some minor knoking only can be herd if I put my head inside the engine bay

 

lowered a bunch smelly gas

 

my flow master droning has gone because it was at 2000 2200 rpm range at 65 MPG

 

hesitation almost gone "prolly accelerator pump adj"

 

only thing, yes I know AFR is worthless but still need to ask

it shows is too lean can this hurt my engine when traveling at 60 MPH? my RPM range is 1500 @ this speed before was at 2000 wich is wierd

 

 

 

this got nothing to do with the thread but I just ordered a avenger 570 and selling this carb :) mainly because it will be on my CFM range and like the second metering block with jets with adjustable vacuum sec quick

 

Ill report back if I got a better MPG or other result to update

 

 

 

.....

 

instead of getting gas you could be installing that spring before i die of old age, lol.

.

.

 

 

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHA

Edited by juit

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none of this makes any sense

 

you can not properly test anything unless you floor it from a dead stop

 

 

do these three tests:

 

turn your distributor to 16 then try it

 

turn it back to 12 . . put the other spring in with one mallory and try it

 

turn your distributor to 16 and try it

 

tell us what happens

 

tell me what your afr does when you floor it from a stop and from 35 mph. . it should go green

 

a 570 carb is too small if you have a noticeable cam and headers.

 

 

is your carb a mechanical secondary?

.

Edited by barnett468

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none of this makes any sense

 

you can not properly test anything unless you floor it from a dead stop

 

 

do these three tests:

 

turn your distributor to 16 then try it

 

turn it back to 12 . . put the other spring in with one mallory and try it

 

turn your distributor to 16 and try it

 

tell us what happens

 

tell me what your afr does when you floor it from a stop and from 35 mph. . it should go green

 

a 570 carb is too small if you have a noticeable cam and headers.

 

 

is your carb a mechanical secondary?

.

Edited by barnett468

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none of this makes any sense

 

you can not properly test anything unless you floor it from a dead stop

 

 

do these three tests:

 

turn your distributor to 16 then try it

 

turn it back to 12 . . put the other spring in with one mallory and try it

 

turn your distributor to 16 and try it

 

tell us what happens

 

 

is your carb a mechanical secondary?

 

holley 4160 sec vacs

 

afr meter: http://www.sunpro.com/product_detail.php?pid=16293

bosch oxigen sensor

 

I did the flooring test and it runs good but I've been changing the idle screw a lot with this changes of initial deg so I need to calibrate My pump again a least check the arm tension

 

at:

35 it goes up and down green red

40 goes red bottom

60 65 disappears in red

 

 

No I changed from 14 because the engine was running hot moving slow

14@3/4

12 @ 1/3

10 @1/4

of the gauge

 

My rad started to have needle pin leaks in the neck & body since 2 weeks ago, don't want too push it to much not at this condition

 

when my aluminum arrives Ill put it at 14 again like I always been running it

Edited by juit

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none of this makes any sense

 

you can not properly test anything unless you floor it from a dead stop

 

 

do these three tests:

 

turn your distributor to 16 then try it

 

turn it back to 12 . . put the other spring in with one mallory and try it

 

turn your distributor to 16 and try it

 

tell us what happens

 

 

is your carb a mechanical secondary?

 

holley 4160 sec vacs

 

afr meter: http://www.sunpro.com/product_detail.php?pid=16293

bosch oxigen sensor

 

I did the flooring test and it runs good but I've been changing the idle screw a lot with this changes of initial deg so I need to calibrate My pump again a least check the arm tension

 

at:

35 it goes up and down green red

40 goes red bottom

60 65 disappears in red

 

 

No I changed from 14 because the engine was running hot moving slow

14@3/4

12 @ 1/3

10 @1/4

of the gauge

 

My rad started to have needle pin leaks in the neck & body since 2 weeks ago, don't want too push it to much not at this condition

 

when my aluminum arrives Ill put it at 14 again like I always been running it

Edited by juit

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ok

 

hot at idle or while driving?

 

like i said, you can't use an afr to jet a carb

 

put the other spring in and give me same afr readings

 

idle slow moving, today we have a fresh weather so results are going to change

 

but yesterday when I was back and forth the car temp was @ 3/4

 

Ill put the springs this afternoon

 

I liked more this set up, but I dont loose anything if I check different set ups

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ok

 

hot at idle or while driving?

 

like i said, you can't use an afr to jet a carb

 

put the other spring in and give me same afr readings

 

idle slow moving, today we have a fresh weather so results are going to change

 

but yesterday when I was back and forth the car temp was @ 3/4

 

Ill put the springs this afternoon

 

I liked more this set up, but I dont loose anything if I check different set ups

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Before changing plate from 10L to 15L stock springs

750 14

1000 14

1500 15

2000 18

2500 20

3000 23

3500 26

 

single stock spring

700 12

1500 18

2000 21

2500 25

3000 30

3500 35

 

2 mr gasket springs

700 10

1000 10

1500 12

2000 22

2500 32

3000 32

3500 33

 

mr gasket and stock spring

750 12

1500 19

2000 24

2500 28

3000 32

3500 34

 

maybe the second spring stabilizes the weights? who knows :S

 

oh before the first curve on the last test it was on 12 initial after finishing with 3500 RPM it landed on 10 at idle, adjusted the initial to 12 again then I did the whole curve & got same results but it landed on 12

 

this only happened with the stock spring test

 

maybe is the rubber hose thats limiting on the 15L slot

Edited by juit

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ok xlnt . . this now makes sense . . if your hesitation with both mr gasket springs was from timing it is because it did not have enough at 1500 and 2000 . . how did it run after each test .. the single ford spring and the single ford and single mr gasket together curves are both really good

Edited by barnett468

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Do you think i should gwt the avenger? Its free in almost new cond

 

never turn down a free part, lol . . if you have an auto it needs a trans kick down . . you can buy one for 30.00 if needed . . you will spend a few hours tuning it.

 

make your car run properly with your current carb first.

 

i

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