holley runing rich all the time

[barnett468 418]

once your distributor is back in, pull a few plug wires off, have someone turn the engine over while you set the timing to 10 - 14. if no one is there you can jump the solenoid with a screw driver and check the timing.

 

reconnect wires after timing is close then start engine and finish setting timing.

 

do not use the vacuum adv, bad things might happen.

 

after we are all done and you get a new vac can, we will set it up so it will be connected to ported vac and it will add a total of around 10 degrees.

 

.

 

 

 

.

Edited October 24, 2014 by barnett468

[juit 34]

I cant get the stupid rotor clip out? I busted 2 fingers with the fan when timing

:(

[juit 34]

I cant get the stupid rotor clip out? I busted 2 fingers with the fan when timing

:(

[juit 34]

got it

[juit 34]

got it

[barnett468 418]

got it

 

got what? . m weare waiting . . how many more green litess?

[barnett468 418]

got it

 

got what? . m weare waiting . . how many more green litess?

[juit 34]

i turn it around but I need to pug all the wires because the cap had rust

and clean all the terminals

[juit 34]

i turn it around but I need to pug all the wires because the cap had rust

and clean all the terminals

[barnett468 418]

I cant get the stupid rotor clip out? I busted 2 fingers with the fan when timing

:(

 

i dont remember telling you told that..you still have one good hand dont you?. . no pain no gaim? . .. no blood no glory? . . just think how much faster you can get to the hospital now.

Edited October 24, 2014 by barnett468

[barnett468 418]

I cant get the stupid rotor clip out? I busted 2 fingers with the fan when timing

:(

 

i dont remember telling you told that..you still have one good hand dont you?. . no pain no gaim? . .. no blood no glory? . . just think how much faster you can get to the hospital now.

Edited October 24, 2014 by barnett468

[barnett468 418]

i turn it around but I need to pug all the wires because the cap had rust

and clean all the terminals

 

you mean you are bleeding and it doesnt eben run yet? . . hey at least you found another problem that needed to be fixed . . . oh by the way....watch out for the fan when you are timing the car...

Edited October 24, 2014 by barnett468

[barnett468 418]

i turn it around but I need to pug all the wires because the cap had rust

and clean all the terminals

 

you mean you are bleeding and it doesnt eben run yet? . . hey at least you found another problem that needed to be fixed . . . oh by the way....watch out for the fan when you are timing the car...

Edited October 24, 2014 by barnett468

[Rcodenewf 44]

Hello Barnett468:

 

Just thinking here after reading your instructions. Would you want to put the arm in the short slot. That will limit the amount of centrifugal advance and therefore he can bring up the initial.

 

Back when the smog craze was on didn't Ford purposely install the arm in the huge slot and in doing so as little as 6-8 degrees would make it ping.

 

I welded up the slot in my 390 4V duraspark in my 75 F150 to bring the centrifugal slot down to @ 9 degrees.( distributor degrees) Double that at the crank for 18 and therefore I can run 17 degrees initial for a total of 35 degrees all in by 3000. I was then able to add another 10 via the advance canister and this truck runs clean, accelerates well and has improved drastically on fuel mileage.

 

That's what worked for me.

 

Thanks...John

[Rcodenewf 44]

Hello Barnett468:

 

Just thinking here after reading your instructions. Would you want to put the arm in the short slot. That will limit the amount of centrifugal advance and therefore he can bring up the initial.

 

Back when the smog craze was on didn't Ford purposely install the arm in the huge slot and in doing so as little as 6-8 degrees would make it ping.

 

I welded up the slot in my 390 4V duraspark in my 75 F150 to bring the centrifugal slot down to @ 9 degrees.( distributor degrees) Double that at the crank for 18 and therefore I can run 17 degrees initial for a total of 35 degrees all in by 3000. I was then able to add another 10 via the advance canister and this truck runs clean, accelerates well and has improved drastically on fuel mileage.

 

That's what worked for me.

 

Thanks...John

[juit 34]

I can adjust the vac if U need me too

 

vac adv:

1k 14

15k18

2k 33

25k 40

3k 40

35k 45

 

mec:

1k 14

15k 15

2k 18

25k 20

3k 23

35k 26

 

same 1 green down only

 

if I do a vac leak it will go to optimal in AFR meter

Edited October 25, 2014 by juit

[juit 34]

I can adjust the vac if U need me too

 

vac adv:

1k 14

15k18

2k 33

25k 40

3k 40

35k 45

 

mec:

1k 14

15k 15

2k 18

25k 20

3k 23

35k 26

 

same 1 green down only

 

if I do a vac leak it will go to optimal in AFR meter

Edited October 25, 2014 by juit

[barnett468 418]

hello . xlnt job . . what is a vacc leak,? . . ill be back in a minute.

[barnett468 418]

hello . xlnt job . . what is a vacc leak,? . . ill be back in a minute.

[barnett468 418]

.

ok . you had 12 at idle . 19 at 2 and 24 at 3 . you now have less advance than you did before . are you positive you were in the small slot and you moved it to the big slot because the results shows the opposite. . also, it looks like your big spring is too stiff . your distributor is not cooperating . . if you want you can recheck what slot it is in and remove the big spring and check the timing again . this is usually much easier . make sure you can turn the rotor until it hits the stop so you have full movement.

.

Edited October 25, 2014 by barnett468

[barnett468 418]

.

ok . you had 12 at idle . 19 at 2 and 24 at 3 . you now have less advance than you did before . are you positive you were in the small slot and you moved it to the big slot because the results shows the opposite. . also, it looks like your big spring is too stiff . your distributor is not cooperating . . if you want you can recheck what slot it is in and remove the big spring and check the timing again . this is usually much easier . make sure you can turn the rotor until it hits the stop so you have full movement.

.

Edited October 25, 2014 by barnett468

[barnett468 418]

Hello Barnett468:

 

Just thinking here after reading your instructions. Would you want to put the arm in the short slot. That will limit the amount of centrifugal advance and therefore he can bring up the initial.

 

Back when the smog craze was on didn't Ford purposely install the arm in the huge slot and in doing so as little as 6-8 degrees would make it ping.

 

I welded up the slot in my 390 4V duraspark in my 75 F150 to bring the centrifugal slot down to @ 9 degrees.( distributor degrees) Double that at the crank for 18 and therefore I can run 17 degrees initial for a total of 35 degrees all in by 3000. I was then able to add another 10 via the advance canister and this truck runs clean, accelerates well and has improved drastically on fuel mileage.

 

That's what worked for me.

 

Thanks...John

 

hello thanks for the question . . please look at this recent thread by juit regarding timing and ported vacuum . .there is a ton of info i and others posted there. not all engines can run as much as 17 degrees initial. i have seen many that develop an irregular idle once they reach around 12.

 

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=16889

 

 

i'll be glad to try and answer more questions if you have them after that . . basically every engine may have different timing needs . . his needs this . . . the more centrifugal you can run the better mileage and hp you will have . . .always run as much centrifugal as you can with the vac disconnected first, then try to run as much vacuum as you can after . . lean jetting can also cause pinging so one needs to determine the real cause first.

Edited October 25, 2014 by barnett468

[barnett468 418]

Hello Barnett468:

 

Just thinking here after reading your instructions. Would you want to put the arm in the short slot. That will limit the amount of centrifugal advance and therefore he can bring up the initial.

 

Back when the smog craze was on didn't Ford purposely install the arm in the huge slot and in doing so as little as 6-8 degrees would make it ping.

 

I welded up the slot in my 390 4V duraspark in my 75 F150 to bring the centrifugal slot down to @ 9 degrees.( distributor degrees) Double that at the crank for 18 and therefore I can run 17 degrees initial for a total of 35 degrees all in by 3000. I was then able to add another 10 via the advance canister and this truck runs clean, accelerates well and has improved drastically on fuel mileage.

 

That's what worked for me.

 

Thanks...John

 

hello thanks for the question . . please look at this recent thread by juit regarding timing and ported vacuum . .there is a ton of info i and others posted there. not all engines can run as much as 17 degrees initial. i have seen many that develop an irregular idle once they reach around 12.

 

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=16889

 

 

i'll be glad to try and answer more questions if you have them after that . . basically every engine may have different timing needs . . his needs this . . . the more centrifugal you can run the better mileage and hp you will have . . .always run as much centrifugal as you can with the vac disconnected first, then try to run as much vacuum as you can after . . lean jetting can also cause pinging so one needs to determine the real cause first.

Edited October 25, 2014 by barnett468

[juit 34]

ok . you had 12 at idle . 19 at 2 and 24 at 3 . you now have less advance than you did before . are you positive you were in the small slot and you moved it to the big slot because the results shows the opposite. . aso it looks like your big spring is too stiff . your distributor is not coperating . . if you want you can recheck what slot it is in and remove the big spring annd check the timing again . this is usually much easier . make sure you can turrn the rotorbuntil it hits the stop so you have full movement . . bv

 

for this results a friend came to help me out so they are acurate, maybe on the first one I missed some thing

[juit 34]

ok . you had 12 at idle . 19 at 2 and 24 at 3 . you now have less advance than you did before . are you positive you were in the small slot and you moved it to the big slot because the results shows the opposite. . aso it looks like your big spring is too stiff . your distributor is not coperating . . if you want you can recheck what slot it is in and remove the big spring annd check the timing again . this is usually much easier . make sure you can turrn the rotorbuntil it hits the stop so you have full movement . . bv

 

for this results a friend came to help me out so they are acurate, maybe on the first one I missed some thing