holley runing rich all the time

[barnett468 418]

ok . . your timing is xlnt now . . reducing your timing will make your enginne run hotter because it is not tuned properly for performance . . when the engine runs hotter it increases te temperature of the exhaust . . this hot exhaust gas burns more of the hydrocarbons in the gas . . the ess hydrocarbons there are the less the exhaust smells like gas and the more it smells like exhaust . . if the smell is coming from the exhaust you have a problem with your exhaust system and leaking seals in the body . . the trunk seal is occasionallyy the problem . also the rubber on the gas tank filler neck can leak fumes . . if you open your trunk and it smells like gas your seal is leakin . your gas cap also has a vennt that occasionally gets plugged after many years this can force fumes past the filler neck seal . . . oen elements often smell like gas especially if it has alcohol in it . . the engine does not suck all the gas fumes into it so some come out the top of the carb and thru the air filter and get blown against the firewallat around 10 million miles an hour by the rad fan spinning at 3000 rpm . . and some of these fumes exit from the hood by the windsheild and go right into your cowl vebt in front of the window and into the car . . there is supposed to be rubbeseals on the gas pedal and brake pedal and clutch pedal rods . . they are always broken after 50 years so the fumes are easily forced thru these holes . . also if you do not have a vent hose going to a closed element air cleeaner you will get a ton of fumes fron the crank case . . put a closed ekement filter on it put a hose from the engine to the air cleaner . . fix the leaks in the firewall put a cover on the cowl vent . put a new rrubber seal at the back of the hood . replace missing rubber plugs in floor pan under seat area . . . . no more smell from engine . . . . . les . . . . hosr grcomewille enteringcarandburns . .

Edited October 29, 2014 by barnett468

[barnett468 418]

put a teaspoon of gas and a teaspoon of oil in a tall glass and put the glass in a pan of boiling water .. . walk out of your house for 5 minutes then walk back in and tell me if you smell anything . . . heck you can even forget the oil and just use gas . . this is a crude example of what yout engine does . . your carbureoor sprays 4 ounces of raw gasoline into the top of the carb every mile . . at 60 mph i sprays 4 ounces in just 1 minute . . if just 1 tiny teaspoon of gas fills your house or even just your kitchen with fumes what do you think the fumes from 4 ounces a minute in a hot engine compartment gett forced into your cabin by the fan will do? , . that is an entire gallon of raw gas every 16 minutes at 60 mph . . . if reducinng the timing definitely reduces the smell then it is coming from your exhaust i guarantee you and it simply means that your exhaust is leaking into your cabin just like i said it might be . . reducing the timing will not change any smell you get from the engine and it will not reduce the amount of fumes you are getting it will onnly turn them into a different smelling fume therefore reducing the timing is not a cure because it does not fix the problem it only masks it therefore it is a band aid not a repair . . install a closed air cleaner and. vent hose and fix air leaks . fix exhaust . put the stock cam back in it because the design of high perf cas causes gas and exhaust smell and your problem will be gone. . . . tbtheb

Edited October 29, 2014 by barnett468

[barnett468 418]

put a teaspoon of gas and a teaspoon of oil in a tall glass and put the glass in a pan of boiling water .. . walk out of your house for 5 minutes then walk back in and tell me if you smell anything . . . heck you can even forget the oil and just use gas . . this is a crude example of what yout engine does . . your carbureoor sprays 4 ounces of raw gasoline into the top of the carb every mile . . at 60 mph i sprays 4 ounces in just 1 minute . . if just 1 tiny teaspoon of gas fills your house or even just your kitchen with fumes what do you think the fumes from 4 ounces a minute in a hot engine compartment gett forced into your cabin by the fan will do? , . that is an entire gallon of raw gas every 16 minutes at 60 mph . . . if reducinng the timing definitely reduces the smell then it is coming from your exhaust i guarantee you and it simply means that your exhaust is leaking into your cabin just like i said it might be . . reducing the timing will not change any smell you get from the engine and it will not reduce the amount of fumes you are getting it will onnly turn them into a different smelling fume therefore reducing the timing is not a cure because it does not fix the problem it only masks it therefore it is a band aid not a repair . . install a closed air cleaner and. vent hose and fix air leaks . fix exhaust . put the stock cam back in it because the design of high perf cas causes gas and exhaust smell and your problem will be gone. . . . tbtheb

Edited October 29, 2014 by barnett468

[juit 34]

With1 spring sometimes my initial vary 2 deg

Installed the mr gaskets springs it went to 8 deg

Bumped to 10 because my slot arm is a 15 l wich gives me a 30 extra mec adv

The leg has a plastic hose so to limit to 26 mec adv plus the 10 i have initial sums 36

Ill do a curve tes and postmy results

 

Just installed a gas reg to keep my psi to 6 and discard any hi psi problems

[juit 34]

With1 spring sometimes my initial vary 2 deg

Installed the mr gaskets springs it went to 8 deg

Bumped to 10 because my slot arm is a 15 l wich gives me a 30 extra mec adv

The leg has a plastic hose so to limit to 26 mec adv plus the 10 i have initial sums 36

Ill do a curve tes and postmy results

 

Just installed a gas reg to keep my psi to 6 and discard any hi psi problems

[barnett468 418]

With1 spring sometimes my initial vary 2 deg

Installed the mr gaskets springs it went to 8 deg

Bumped to 10 because my slot arm is a 15 l wich gives me a 30 extra mec adv

The leg has a plastic hose so to limit to 26 mec adv plus the 10 i have initial sums 36

Ill do a curve tes and postmy results

 

Just installed a gas reg to keep my psi to 6 and discard any hi psi problems

 

ok, this makes no sense unless your single spring was loose . . i asked you to check for this and check to see if there was any resistance when you tried to barely turn the rotor.

 

you are only getting around 18 from your 25 slot.

Edited October 30, 2014 by barnett468

[barnett468 418]

With1 spring sometimes my initial vary 2 deg

Installed the mr gaskets springs it went to 8 deg

Bumped to 10 because my slot arm is a 15 l wich gives me a 30 extra mec adv

The leg has a plastic hose so to limit to 26 mec adv plus the 10 i have initial sums 36

Ill do a curve tes and postmy results

 

Just installed a gas reg to keep my psi to 6 and discard any hi psi problems

 

ok, this makes no sense unless your single spring was loose . . i asked you to check for this and check to see if there was any resistance when you tried to barely turn the rotor.

 

you are only getting around 18 from your 25 slot.

Edited October 30, 2014 by barnett468

[juit 34]

it had some tension barnett but I think not enough to bring it all the way back, also this same spring was no letting get full adv at 3000K

 

I hope this springs bring it to 2500 rpm

[juit 34]

it had some tension barnett but I think not enough to bring it all the way back, also this same spring was no letting get full adv at 3000K

 

I hope this springs bring it to 2500 rpm

[barnett468 418]

it had some tension barnett but I think not enough to bring it all the way back, also this same spring was no letting get full adv at 3000K

 

I hope this springs bring it to 2500 rpm

 

Well let us know what it does.

[barnett468 418]

it had some tension barnett but I think not enough to bring it all the way back, also this same spring was no letting get full adv at 3000K

 

I hope this springs bring it to 2500 rpm

 

Well let us know what it does.

[juit 34]

sure will, Im amaze how I just pup up the distributor and change springs like a boss, a week ago I just stare at the distributor and had nightmares

 

thanks

[juit 34]

sure will, Im amaze how I just pup up the distributor and change springs like a boss, a week ago I just stare at the distributor and had nightmares

 

thanks

[barnett468 418]

sure will, Im amaze how I just pup up the distributor and change springs like a boss, a week ago I just stare at the distributor and had nightmares

 

thanks

 

congrats, i'm glad you were brave, patient and trusting enough to attempt it, most people aren't . . you are now a master and actually know what most vintage car owners don't.

[barnett468 418]

sure will, Im amaze how I just pup up the distributor and change springs like a boss, a week ago I just stare at the distributor and had nightmares

 

thanks

 

congrats, i'm glad you were brave, patient and trusting enough to attempt it, most people aren't . . you are now a master and actually know what most vintage car owners don't.

[juit 34]

700 10

1000 10

1500 12

2000 22

2500 32

3000 32

3500 33 I think because hose gets tight, prolly I need a brass bushing

 

when I floor it it hesitates then reacts like a caged animal

 

W vac adv hesitation goes away

Edited October 30, 2014 by juit

[juit 34]

700 10

1000 10

1500 12

2000 22

2500 32

3000 32

3500 33 I think because hose gets tight, prolly I need a brass bushing

 

when I floor it it hesitates then reacts like a caged animal

 

W vac adv hesitation goes away

Edited October 30, 2014 by juit

[barnett468 418]

ok . . it ran perfect with my set up without the vacuum hose correct

 

you change the springs and now you have a huge hesitation without the vacuum

 

you connect the vacuum and your hesitation goes away

 

first of all none of this makes sense so i need more info

 

did you test it the same way before the spring change?

 

EXACTLY under what condition does it hesitate?

 

did you install the new vacuum can?

 

if not what did you hook up where?

 

you need to fix it so there is NO hesitation without the vacuum just like i had it.

 

it sounds to me like you still have the pos dual port vac can and you connected the rear port to vacuum.

 

 

heres my setting where it ran perfect.

 

idle 12

1500 18

2000 21

2500 25

3000 30

3500 35

 

heres your setting with the new springs i that said would screw it up . . the 32 degrees at 2500 rpm must be screwing it up, just like i told you earlier it would . . the 18 at 1500 and 32 at 3000 are not a problem.

 

700 10

1000 10

1500 12

2000 22

2500 32

3000 32

3500 33

 

if your spring you just removed feels a bit stronger than the others you just installed, then remove one of the others and reinstall that one.

 

are both then others the same size?

.

Edited October 30, 2014 by barnett468

[barnett468 418]

ok . . it ran perfect with my set up without the vacuum hose correct

 

you change the springs and now you have a huge hesitation without the vacuum

 

you connect the vacuum and your hesitation goes away

 

first of all none of this makes sense so i need more info

 

did you test it the same way before the spring change?

 

EXACTLY under what condition does it hesitate?

 

did you install the new vacuum can?

 

if not what did you hook up where?

 

you need to fix it so there is NO hesitation without the vacuum just like i had it.

 

it sounds to me like you still have the pos dual port vac can and you connected the rear port to vacuum.

 

 

heres my setting where it ran perfect.

 

idle 12

1500 18

2000 21

2500 25

3000 30

3500 35

 

heres your setting with the new springs i that said would screw it up . . the 32 degrees at 2500 rpm must be screwing it up, just like i told you earlier it would . . the 18 at 1500 and 32 at 3000 are not a problem.

 

700 10

1000 10

1500 12

2000 22

2500 32

3000 32

3500 33

 

if your spring you just removed feels a bit stronger than the others you just installed, then remove one of the others and reinstall that one.

 

are both then others the same size?

.

Edited October 30, 2014 by barnett468

[juit 34]

yes just hook it up to see if it worked better, its plugged now

 

I think I need to free tension on 1 spring

 

i feal it need more adv on 1500 rpm range

[juit 34]

yes just hook it up to see if it worked better, its plugged now

 

I think I need to free tension on 1 spring

 

i feal it need more adv on 1500 rpm range

[barnett468 418]

yes just hook it up to see if it worked better, its plugged now

 

I think I need to free tension on 1 spring

 

i feal it need more adv on 1500 rpm range

 

nope, unfortunately you are completely wrong.

 

i have several questions you did not answer plus at the bottom of my post above, i suggested what to do.

 

do NOT bend a post.

.

[barnett468 418]

yes just hook it up to see if it worked better, its plugged now

 

I think I need to free tension on 1 spring

 

i feal it need more adv on 1500 rpm range

 

nope, unfortunately you are completely wrong.

 

i have several questions you did not answer plus at the bottom of my post above, i suggested what to do.

 

do NOT bend a post.

.

[juit 34]

did you test it the same way before the spring change? yes

 

EXACTLY under what condition does it hesitate? idle on city and try to move the car from full stop, feals like it loose power and then gets it after passing 1500 rpm not sure what range,

 

did you install the new vacuum can? no its on the way

 

if not what did you hook up where? the old one with only 5 degrees in advance

 

you need to fix it so there is NO hesitation without the vacuum just like i had it. ok how? what you suggest?

 

it sounds to me like you still have the pos dual port vac can and you connected the rear port to vacuum. no I put it on ported just to test now is plugged

 

are both then others the same size?

 

Mr Gasket are softer

 

the stock ones are like 2 time heavy

 

no I wont bend anything it was a suggestion

 

if I run it on 14 it works great but hotter

 

like here in this page http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_page-2.html

 

step 6

Edited October 31, 2014 by juit

[juit 34]

did you test it the same way before the spring change? yes

 

EXACTLY under what condition does it hesitate? idle on city and try to move the car from full stop, feals like it loose power and then gets it after passing 1500 rpm not sure what range,

 

did you install the new vacuum can? no its on the way

 

if not what did you hook up where? the old one with only 5 degrees in advance

 

you need to fix it so there is NO hesitation without the vacuum just like i had it. ok how? what you suggest?

 

it sounds to me like you still have the pos dual port vac can and you connected the rear port to vacuum. no I put it on ported just to test now is plugged

 

are both then others the same size?

 

Mr Gasket are softer

 

the stock ones are like 2 time heavy

 

no I wont bend anything it was a suggestion

 

if I run it on 14 it works great but hotter

 

like here in this page http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_page-2.html

 

step 6

Edited October 31, 2014 by juit