Aftermarket wiring harness

[Raven R code 281]

I'm looking to replace the dash wiring along with the engine compartment harness. Trying to get rid of the ghost in the machine.

Can anyone verify the quality of any if the aftermarket harnesses like painless or alloy metal products?

 

Thanks!

[Alan_Mac 48]

I replace all my harness's with Alloy Metal Products. They were exact replacements and are an excellent plug and play option.

[etel64 10]

I did a complete restomod and used an AAW. i found it was very easy.

[TheRktmn 15]

If you're looking for stock replacement, I recommend Randy's stuff at Midlife Harness: http://midlife66.com/harnesses/

[LiLMike 42]

I am doing an AAW wiring harness. It is kind of easy but you need to pay attention to detail. It is harder than you think but not that hard. If I had it to do it all over again, I would do a painless harness because they match the existing color wires where AAW doesn't.

[miketyler 15]

+1 on the Alloy Metals vote.

 

Their harness will probably cost you more but will be concours correct including wire colors, molded connectors, wire loom stays, etc. No splicing, cutting, soldering or re-using of your old connectors*. I used their under hood (headlight) harness and it looks and fits exactly as original and has the windshield washer hose already taped in to the harness.

 

*Their headlight harness does require you to reuse the green plastic firewall plug.

[Raven R code 281]

I am doing an AAW wiring harness. It is kind of easy but you need to pay attention to detail. It is harder than you think but not that hard. If I had it to do it all over again, I would do a painless harness because they match the existing color wires where AAW doesn't.

 

Good to know!! That would be an important factor.

[Alan_Mac 48]

+1 on the Alloy Metals vote.

 

Their harness will probably cost you more but will be concours correct including wire colors, molded connectors, wire loom stays, etc. No splicing, cutting, soldering or re-using of your old connectors*. I used their under hood (headlight) harness and it looks and fits exactly as original and has the windshield washer hose already taped in to the harness.

 

*Their headlight harness does require you to reuse the green plastic firewall plug.

 

Right On...I found all AMP harness (main under dash, rear, etc) are of this quality. AMP also has makes different Ford revision level harness's. As an example my 70 is an early build date that has a different headlight harness than the majority of the 70 Mach1's. I also created two secondary (+12V, Ground) wiring harness for all the add in switched 12V stuff. When the key is in the ON or start position a constant on solenoid powers the 12V common terminal block. Works like a charm and not one spice in my car!

[Buddyjoe 10]

I would use aaw. Its only hard if you make it hard. When I used aaw it was my first time wiring a car and everything went really good.

[MustangGT 11]

For the best price on Alloy Metal - you can't beat (Pete) coralsnake68@hotmail.com -- I have ordered all of my wiring from him and he beats all of the big boys. The wiring is perfect and fits like a glove.

Edited February 16, 2014 by MustangGT

[bomccorkle 12]

Anyone using ezwire? Getting ready to wire up and so much has changed I see no need to pay for a factory style.

[69volunteer 84]

I used AAW and it was relatively easy. Everything is labeled, they give you a ton of accessory wires.

[Aw4g63 0]

Any reason why you guys haven't just used a Painless 12 or 14 circuit kit? That's what I was leaning toward. They're like $300 shipped.

[Kris 90]

I would assume it is due to the fact that it does not come with all the required factory connectors for our cars. Also those cheaper ones are only setup for 2 headlights and 69's have 4 so you would have to modify a new harness to try to make it work. Its just a lot less trouble to get one that is made correct for the car and all you have to do is hook it up. Im sure you could get the cheaper harness to work but how much is your time and the frustration worth. You can get the direct fit aaw harness from summit for $594 the universal painless is $509. Kind of a no brainer if you ask me.

[PaleRider 12]

I used AAW on my 66 project. If you go to CJ there is a nice writeup on work involved. It went a lot quicker than I expected. When you first look at all the wire it can be a little overwhelming but if you take a section at a time - very manageable. I went with AAW since I put in electic fan, one wire alternator, aftermarket gauges, Halogen lights. Really nice is that each wire is labeled for use. Im sure painless has that too. I think stock would be quicker but if you go aftermarket AAW gets a lot of good press.

[mustangstofear 608]

AAW is all we use and sell. Never had a problem with it.

[miketyler 15]

I like plug and play but there is a definite benefit to having added circuits for future upgrades like electric fans, lighting, audio, etc. I like later style colored fuses too. If I were to do one again I would consider going that route. What do you do about steering column connector? Splice the OEM plug from old harness into the new harness?

[9RO1M 12]

This suited me,all correct plugs etc unplug and plug in http://www.cjponyparts.com/underdash-wiring-harness-with-tachometer-1969/p/WUD11/ http://www.cjponyparts.com/headlight-wiring-harness-from-firewall-1969/p/WHL6A/

Edited February 19, 2014 by 9RO1M

[miketyler 15]

Yes, that would be the Alloy Metals product and while we all agree it looks great and is plug and play it is more than twice the cost of the other solutions.

[Midlife 814]

I have to bite my tongue on this thread...

[Alan_Mac 48]

I have to bite my tongue on this thread...

 

Funny, No need for an aftermarket harness when you have Midlife!

[miketyler 15]

But to be fair, you still have a 40 year old harness that may still have dry and brittle insulation. Midlife isnt building new harnesses....yet

[timbo69 10]

I just put the AAW harness in. Well put together. You have to make your own connections, but everything is laid out very nicely and well made. You will want to reuse your courtesy light sockets as the ones they give you are cheap plastic ones. They also give you a new light switch and ignition switch, as the stock ones will not work with the new harness. Also has provision for headlights upgrade with one relay per light, all 4. Nice modern short spade fuse box with extra circuits. Also provisions for modern radio. Also for VSS as well as power windows, gog light electric fuel pump, etc. well made, but not an afternoon walk in the park.

[Midlife 814]

But to be fair, you still have a 40 year old harness that may still have dry and brittle insulation. Midlife isnt building new harnesses....yet

 

OK...time to speak up. For underdash harnesses, I've never seen one (out of 600+) that had brittle insulation. The only ones I do not refurbish are those which have had a short and the insulation is damaged beyond repair.

 

Personally, I think that recycling existing harnesses by professional refurbishment standards back to stock OEM specifications for 15-20% of reproduction costs and providing a 2 year no questions asked guaranty/warranty with unlimited consultation is a far better value than reproductions or aftermarket wiring. The only time it doesn't make sense is if the car is intended to be highly modified beyond the amperage current capacity of the existing wires.

[miketyler 15]

Unfortunately there are sections of the under dash harness that extend forward under the hood and those are subject to heat cycling, moisture, fuel and oil etc the same as the headlight harness. I'm not saying there isn't value in restoring the under dash harness as I am one of your customers. I am saying for some there is no substitute for new virgin copper wire, the same as what was put in the car when it was born.